In reply to Bumboclaat:
I'm not sure if I want to go that far with it.
In reply to Bumboclaat:
I'm not sure if I want to go that far with it.
So you are looking at $140 if you do it yourself, and how much if you melt the card?
How much down time for both options? And is that a factor?
Are you sure either option will make you happy for now? I've learned that I do my research and try and fix something once the right way, as opposed to multiple small, fixes to get me through until the big one.
O and I still don't like HDs but at least you bike isn't dripping in chrome like someone dropped it in a chrome bath and then added black tires.
I like the white lettering on the tires too.
I'll get a list together tonight with the options I've researched. The rear shocks I want are $650ish. There are a couple ways I could go for the front.
Down time isn't a factor but I'm not planning anything custom and should be able to do everything in a day.
OK, here are the options I have been researching so far.
R model damper tubes new from dealer = $60
R model rear shocks 13.25" used from ebay = $29.95 (seriously considering jumping on these)
Pros; A cheap way to gain some cornering clearance so I don't completely scrape a hole in my exhaust.
Cons; Still has crappy factory damping characteristics and is design for someone about thirty pounds lighter than I am.
Add Ricor Intimator to the front forks. $179.99
These are almost universally praised for being the best upgrade for the E36 M3ty damping in the front forks.
Progressive Monotube fork cartridge. $249.95
Progressive 412 rear shocks. $299.95
Pros; Montube cartridge replaces all internals of the factory front forks. Ordering the part number for a custom or roadster will get me the same increase in ride height.
Cons; Still a one size fit's all approach. Not a lot of reports one the monotubes. While an upgrade from the factory shocks the shocks are only slightly better from stock according to reports.
Damper rods = $60
Intimators = $179.99
Works dual rate springs = $179.99
Ricor IAS rear shocks 13.5" $629.99
Pros; Springs are based on my weight and are very customizable to really dial the fork in. In my opinion likely the best I can piece together without going full custom.
Cons; Expensive.
I've seen folk put the touring air shocks on sportsters. If that's a viable option, I'd suggest it. You can change out the oil in just a few minutes by turning the shock over and sucking it out. That makes damping easily adjustable.
Similarly, up front tune the oil. If you can easily get to the fork caps, it's a quick change. On my rk, it's not so easy, so I drilled my caps and installed the lines and schrader for air, so I can quickly change the oil and pressurize if I wish.
Playing with the oils greatly helped my ride quality and stability. Stock oil is apparently quite thin, and my shocks had almost none left anyhow. I didn't raise my height, in fact I'd like to go the other way and lower it an inch, but I'm not keep on the reduced ride quality.
Anyhow, longer shocks from ebay and a set of longer thingies for,the forks, and some oil will barely set you back a hundred dollars. You can always add the Ricor fork tuners later without any problems.
Wow! $1050! Can you keep that $$$ sell this bike and upgrade? Cause that seems like a lot of coin. And not to put down the Sportster but even after another $1050 will it be what you want...
If you are keeping it, I think I would go with the ebay rear shocks, and Ricors. If the Ricors are a known improvement over an unknown for the Progressives, that's the route I'd go.
In reply to octavious:
That's the most I'm willing to spend. There are much more expensive options out there.
I've pretty much decided I'm going to keep the bike. I may decide to pick up another bike at some point but it would be in addition to this one.
I've looked into the RK air shocks and that is an option as well. Though I've heard that they are not well suited for people under 230.
All geared up I'm around 210. Always solo and never have any gear or bags or anything like that with me.
I've also heard good things about adding Schrader valves to the fork caps.
So many options. Never enough money.
What about getting an XR1200, or getting the parts from one?
In reply to rotard:
No doubt I would love an XR. I don't think I would want to swap XR parts unto mine. If I remember right nothing is really a straight forward swap.
While it's not a Sportster, I put Progressive monotubes in my buddy's Ultra. He can't say enough good things about them. He keeps telling me I need to do that upgrade to my Road Glide.
In reply to RealMiniDriver:
Good to know.
Keep in mind what I'm saying is based off of many many hours of research over countless sleepless nights. And based solely on internet reviews and reports taking into account the experience of the reporter.
I have exactly zero first hand experience with anything related to motorcycle suspension tuning.
Which is in large part why I'm coming here with these questions and am hesitant to pull the trigger on anything.
Nick_Comstock wrote: I've looked into the RK air shocks and that is an option as well. Though I've heard that they are not well suited for people under 230.
Those shocks are made by Showa, a Honda subsidiary, for the GoldWing 1200 & 1500. They can more than handle a sportster with a heavy rider.
In reply to foxtrapper:
Opposite of what your thinking. I've heard they can be very hard and unforgiving, even with almost no pressure, for someone who is under 230lbs. Although I have heard they are very nice for people that are heavier or ride 2up a lot.
In reply to Nick_Comstock:
I've read about the monotubes on a RG specific forum, and several members have them and rave about them, as well. I've not done much reading on other Harley forums, though.
Are you researching the Prog monotubes on Sportster forums? Could it be that you're not finding much about them, because Sportster riders don't feel like investing in improving their rides?
My buddy - the one that has the monotubes - is a smaller guy, ~140lbs. He's not had any complaints about the rear shocks being harsh, but he's also riding a bike that weighs 50% more than an Iron.
If you had room to hide one of these:
I could make you Oh-such-a-deal on an air ride rear setup, using Corvette shocks.
In reply to RealMiniDriver:
Some people have tried the monotubes. One guy with a 48 raves about them. Honestly I'm leaning towards them.
I've also seen some people use the corvette air shocks. I have considered them as well. If I had some bags hanging off the back to hide the ugly they would be a little higher my list. The two guy's I've seen using them didn't use an on board compressor though.
So I reread the original post on the suspension and had a couple of questions, What's the headset on your bike look like? If you go with the 3" longer tubes you mentioned for the front, would you be able to adjust the headset and get everything set where you like it? That way you could eliminate out the death wobble, and would still give you some room for adjustment.
Yes, what I'm referring to is how level the frame rails sit. Stock it's slightly lower in the rear than the front. That leads to a slow lazy turn in but good stability. 13.5" shocks along with bringing the front up to the standard height should have them sitting very close to level, which should increase turn in without upsetting the stability enough to get into trouble. The problems begin if the front of the bikes frame sit lower than the rear. From what I understand, a high speed wobble is the result. It's something I'm going to pay attention to for sure.
Gotcha. So are the options you are looking at proven to level it or raise the front slightly and eliminate death wobble? I asked about the headset because if it is adjustable like a bicycle, if you got the longer tubes and needed to then you could have adjustments to fine tune it and see about getting it level or closer to level.
(Death wobble is a term I know from the Jeep world and I assume it means the same here, wobble on the front end causing the whole Jeep to shake violently at certain speeds. AKA not something I would ever want in a bike.)
Yes same thing. The test is to start at 35 and hive the bars a good hit to make sure it's stable. If it's ok keep bumping the speed up by 5mph and repeat, continuing up to a speed you feel comfortable. What you don't want is to make a suspension change, go out without testing, and realize you've got a problem in a high speed sweeper.
By all accounts it's not an issue with 13.5" shocks which is about the tallest you can run on an 04 and later, rubber mounted swing arm like mine due to interference with the belt and some rear brake master cylinder brackets and the exhaust. On 04 and earlier solid mounted swing arm bikes, only the exhaust is in the way.
You can make some adjustment by raising or lowering the forks in the triple trees.
TL;DR It's not a huge issue but something that needs some attention paid to it.
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