If you didn't need a drivers pumpkin on the front I'd say go buy a ratty '80s Chevy CUCV M1008 1-1/4 ton military truck, and harvest the Dana 60 and 14 bolt from it. The 14 bolt has a good chance of coming with a Detroit in it already.
If the giant drums on a 14 bolt aren't sufficient for your stopping needs, there's a ton of aftermarket disc brake conversions, utilizing a bolt on or weld on bracket, and off the shelf calipers and rotors.
Do you know how wide your axles need to be?
Late model stuff has mostly gone to unit bearing hubs, and semi-float axles, not as sought after in the offroad community as the '70s-'90s stuff.
For driver pumpkin, Dana 60 front you need a '78-'99 3/4 or 1 ton Ford truck, they went to ball joints around '92, so if you want king pin get an older one. Expect to pay a lot of money for a king pin Ford D60.
If you want a driver pumpkin, Dana 44 front, you've got a few more options, '79 or older 3/4 ton Fords, '77 or older if you're going to remove the radius arm mounts. '80s to early '90s Wagoneer "narrow tracks." A TJ or JK Rubicon will have a D44 front and rear, drivers drop front, but likely too narrow.
Rear axles are easier, every 3/4+ and even some 1/2 ton trucks will have a D60, D70, D80, 14B, Sterling, AAM, etc. under it. Width will be an issue, dual rear wheel (DRW) axles are narrower, and often the front axle will be wider, than the same axle on a SRW truck.
There's tons of info on the web for mixing and matching, knuckles, hubs, spindles, cutting tubes, retubing centers, etc. to make the axle that's "just right for you."
There's eleventy billion GM 10 bolt fronts (almost a D44) in junk yards, and trailer parks across the country, you should be able to get a few cheap enough that you could practice pulling the tubes out of the pumpkin and swapping inner Cs to either side to build yourself a driver drop 10 bolt.![](/media/img/icons/smilies/crazy-18.png)