Friend's Jeep won't start. Had it at the dealer, dealer wanted him to keep throwing money at it - $500 (!) battery, $850 ignition switch (out was it module?). When those two items did not cure it, dealer said, “Maybe it's the ($1500) computer," to which my friend said, “Whoa, time out."
Friend said he's seen remanufactured computers for $300.
Does the Hive know anything about the diesel Liberty? Is there something the dealer missed?
It's currently sitting in my driveway.
"ecu is bad" is the white flag of a dealer service dept. either they don't know or don't care to properly diagnose the problem. 99% of the time it isn't the ecu, but wiring or some sensor.
That said I know squat about the liberty diesels. I'd check the glow plugs are working and go from there. Air, fuel, fire and all that.
My bad, I forgot to mention its no-start situation. It won't crank at all. No click, no whir, no nothing.
Those are a CAN-BUS system, if the bus is down no it won't start. It's not exactly simple to diagnose without some way of reading fault codes. But it is possible that a bad module OTHER than the PCM could shut the whole thing down. The way to see this is to plug it into a WiTech etc so the 'bus' can be viewed, then start UNPLUGGING modules one at a time. When the bus comes back up, there's your bad module.
Won't crank presents a whole different program than not starting. Trouble shoot the starter circuit. No different than a gas engine.
RealMiniDriver wrote: Is there something the dealer missed? It's currently sitting in my driveway.
ASD relay, IIRC, might be the culprit. Or at least the first place I start after checking to make sure the wiring is at least touching all the proper pieces.
As to the dealer themselves, I can say in 3 years of DCx dealership wrenching, I have SEEN ONE diesel Liberty ever. Although I can't give them a pass on E36 M3ty diag.....
iceracer wrote: Won't crank presents a whole different program than not starting. Trouble shoot the starter circuit. No different than a gas engine.
Actually, won't crank can be a CAN-BUS problem. That has the 'skim' key, the PCM uses the WCM (wireless control module) to 'interrogate' the key. Valid match = will allow crank and run. Bad key = will start, run for a few seconds and die. Bad WCM or no BUS communication = no crank.
RealMiniDriver wrote: $500 (!) battery,
Curmudgeon wrote: Actually, won't crank can be a CAN-BUS problem. That has the 'skim' key, the PCM uses the WCM (wireless control module) to 'interrogate' the key. Valid match = will allow crank and run. Bad key = will start, run for a few seconds and die. Bad WCM or no BUS communication = no crank.
But you can look at the PCM data and see if their is a valid SKIM key present. But even before that, unless they changed it, the interface will show the down leg of the bus. But keys do go bad, got another key to try?
Crawl under there with a screwdriver and manually fire the starter? That should eliminate a bad starter.
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