slefain wrote: I need to open up the Carter BBD carb and clean the idle tubes (it dies at stoplights, doh).
Do a good tuneup, including valve adjustment. (I do mine hot and running, but that's personal preference.)
slefain wrote: It also has manual disc brakes. That isn't going to fly on 285 stop and go traffic.
I kind of like my late-A manual disks and have no problem with them, but then, I upgraded from 9" drums. 
For serious brakes, contact Andy Finkbeiner at AREngineering. Think Viper calipers, 13" rotors, etc.
slantvaliant wrote:
slefain wrote: I need to open up the Carter BBD carb and clean the idle tubes (it dies at stoplights, doh).
Do a good tuneup, including valve adjustment. (I do mine hot and running, but that's personal preference.)
slefain wrote: It also has manual disc brakes. That isn't going to fly on 285 stop and go traffic.
I kind of like my late-A manual disks and have no problem with them, but then, I upgraded from 9" drums.
For serious brakes, contact Andy Finkbeiner at AREngineering. Think Viper calipers, 13" rotors, etc.
Alrighty, cleaning the idle tubes has made the car drivable now. One tube was completely blocked while the other was just nasty. I might drill them out like the Jeep guys do.
The manual brakes are gonna have to go. This is the car I'm going to be driving in Atlanta traffic on 285 pretty much daily. RockAuto has a complete master cylinder and booster setup for $129. I just need to find out what changes need to be made to the rest of the system (prop valve more than likely).
Oh, and the kill switch is in place. I'm a frick'n genius. The ghetto rats will need a schematic to figure out how to beat this one.
slefain wrote:
The manual brakes are gonna have to go. This is the car I'm going to be driving in Atlanta traffic on 285 pretty much daily. RockAuto has a complete master cylinder and booster setup for $129. I just need to find out what changes need to be made to the rest of the system (prop valve more than likely).
I'm with Slant Valiant on the manual disks. I prefer the solid pedal of the manual to the wet sponge power brakes, but I'm weird like that.
The prop valve is the same power or manual on the Duster. The pictures on Rock Auto's site show just the booster and master cylinder. To add power brakes to a non-power A-body you need the firewall to booster brackets and linkage. It raises the booster a couple inches and moves it forward some with some linkage between the booster the brake pedal pushrod. The pushrod is different between the manual and power. Don't chuck the manual pushrod. Manual brake weirdos like me look for them.
I have a power brake booster setup or two around here. One's going in my wife's '67 Barracuda convertible (she doesn't like the manual brakes either, and I'll cave). I'll try to dig one out and take some pics of what I'm talking about.
The brackets and linkage aren't too hard to find. They are pretty much the same '67-76 in any A-body power brake car, drum or disk. Look for a Valiant Brougham (luxury ? 4-door '75-76 Valiant) or Dart SE. Every one I've seen had power brakes.
-Rob
