Adding parking pad?

Looking at adding a parking pad beside the garage for a trailer. What do I need to know if somebody else will be doing the work?

This is in Woodbridge, VA

We have gotten some quotes but I don't know what details I need to know about the concrete or anything else.

The pad will require removal of one pine tree and another one needs to come out because it is dead. They are both taller than the 2 story house so I don't really want to mess with taking them down myself. The pad will be ~24x10 with a little bit coming off the current driveway adding the additional sq footage below. That side of the house also has the all the services coming in (power, cable) so will need to be dug by hand for a some of it.

Here is one quote that we have. Are there other details we should make sure of or have in the quote?

Contractor said: 1. Prepare for a new concrete driveway approximately 384 sq. ft. Prepare 2 inches of gravel compact the ground, add wire mesh, add 4 inch think of concrete brush finishing cost 3,500. Removal and re adjust the existing fence to the new place at the end of the new driveway using the same fence. By taking down two big pines trees and disposing of the debris, and also grind the stump too for a cost of 2,000. For a grand total of $ 5,500.

Can't offer much in the way of helpful advice other than to ask if you could just park your trailer on the side of your house in the grass for free and have $5500 in your pocket?

I have an empty boat trailer parked along the side of my house behind a tree. It works for me, it is out of the way, not an eyesore and free to park it there. If I used the trailer more than once a year or so, I'd want it in a better spot. How often do you use your trailer?

2 inches of gravel is not really enough. They should take all the topsoil off and go back with a minimum of 4" gravel. On a slab that size, the should also put control joints up the middle of the 10' direction and 3 along the 24' dimension to break it up into (8) 5'x6' areas. This will help control cracking. The control joints can be tooled in during wet finishing, or saw cut after about 24 hours.

You should also ask what the compressive strength of the concrete is. It should be minimum of 2500 psi.

I would think it may be best to hire a tree service to take out the two trees first and then treat the concrete work as a separate issue. May get a better price that way. I would also move the existing fence myself.

Yeah the concrete guy might just be using a tree service and adding a bit of cost to you for being the 'general'. Check to see if your local rental place has a stump grinder and compare it to the cost of the tree service's stump grinding services. It might be a wash since the real work is getting rid of the rest of the tree.

In reply to Duke: You'd be hard pressed to find concrete that weak. Standard mix is 3,000 PSI. I would specify that the concrete needs to have air entrainment as it will be outside and exposed to freezing temps. The microscopic air pockets keep concrete from cracking when exposed to cold.

Otherwise good advice. I second the control joints and have a tree service remove them separately.

OP, how many quotes have you gotten? On a project that size I's suggest getting three.

Yeah, most concrete is stronger than 2500 psi, you're right. But the contract should specify the number, and it should be no less than 2500#. What they deliver will probably be 3000-3500#, but I've seen some crappy stuff.

a couple of loads of crushed granite to create a surface that is "not grass" for parking stuff on is a lot cheaper than $5500.. and don't you have a friend that has a chainsaw that can take care of the trees for you?

depends on when and how often you need your trailer as to what you can park it on. For example, here in the midwest, if you park your trailer on the lawn, chances are great in the spring when you need your trailer you will be pulling it out of the mud. Doable, but not fun.

Can't park in grass/gravel. County rule prohibits parking on gravel/unimproved surfaces on small lots. Trailer is used at least 2x a month 8 months of the year. Pretty much just parked over the winter.

Have gotten other quotes for just trees and his numbers are in line the cheaper one $$ wise.

I think this is the 3rd quote on the trees and 2nd quote on the parking pad. both parking pad quotes have been in the same price range. 2 of the tree ones have been about the same and one way more.

The fence thing is not adding much to the quote.

As for taking the trees down myself. I have a chainsaw what I don't have is confidence that I can cut something that big down without hitting my house or the neighbor's house.

In reply to moxnix:

Knowing your limits on chainsawing and huge trees is always a good thing.

When they poured the floor in my 22x72 building a couple of weeks ago the guy ordered too much concrete. The result was an impromptu 10x10 pad in my dog run and a 10x22 pad along the side of the building, like you want, both essentially free.

In my case, it was 30 yards of 4500psi concrete (they really only needed @24) at $110/yd plus $5/yd for long fiber reinforcement instead of rebar. The whole job, including dirt work, $450 worth of gravel, power troweling, and cutting in joints the next day was $8k as part of a bigger overall project.

You're looking at 6 yards of concrete and probably a load of gravel, delivered around here that's $700 +$100. A skid loader for one day and a power screed and bull float for the next is $250 worth of tool rental. Add another $250 for forms, some hand trowels, and food and beverage for the 5 friends you would want to help and as a DIY project that pad is $12-1500 plus labor and time.

If the pines are located within the footprint of the pad, grinding isn't going to do it. At least the way they do it around here anyway. What's left will eventually rot and leave a void.

I want a 16' x 20' addition to my driveway. I cant get a quote to save my life. I have had 2 people come out, neither provided a written quote even after multiple calls. Can't feel good about a contractor that is to busy/lazy to write a quote up.

For a trailer, any reason to not consider two rows of pavers, the width of the trailer wheels?

I understand wanting a nice concrete pad, for all kinds of purposes. But if its really for just a trailer, would pavers do and would they satisfy code/zoning requirements?

In reply to foxtrapper:

Pavers probably won't count as an "improved" surface. Especially since just putting down gravel won't.

I was initially going to ask about permits, but it seems you've got that covered if the twp is making you do this in the first place.

oldopelguy - I think the key word is around here. Everything in the Washington, D.C area tends to be a little more expensive.

spitfirebill - One tree is near the end of where the parking pad would be going so good point and i'll have to ask about that.

foxtrapper - Not sure if pavers meet code/zoning but the wife wants a parking pad.

Ian F wrote: In reply to foxtrapper: Pavers probably won't count as an "improved" surface. Especially since just putting down gravel won't. I was initially going to ask about permits, but it seems you've got that covered if the twp is making you do this in the first place.

Permits are still something that need to be worked on but they are something that we plan to get. The other information is all coming from the county website.