I didn't want to hijack the other thread, so I thought I'd post my own story about this sort of thing here.
Many moons ago I got a 1st gen Talon TSI (turbo, AWD) in the shop. It had the following "lines" or areas of concern:
Line 1 - Check engine
Line 2 - Check transmission and transfer case
Line 3 - Check brakes
Line 4 - Check clutch
Line 5 - Check tires
For vehicle inspections we had a flat charge of 1.0, so I get a car in with 5 hours of CP (customer pay) checkout time, no complaints though. I asked the service advisor for some details (our SA's SUCKED bad) and after calling the customer he told us:
I took my car to [an auto repair shop that is part of a department store that rhymes with beers] to get (I think it was a wheel alignment or a tire rotation). I went to the pizza place to eat while I waited. I saw my car pull out, go to the back of the parking lot and they started beating the crap out of my car. They got all 4 wheels spinning on many occasions, parking brake slides, and everything else they could to to it. They beat on it for more than 10 minutes and my buddy and I watched the whole thing. I confronted the store manager. He fired the two guys in the car on the spot. I asked about the potential damage to the car and he told me to take it to the dealership. They will pay for anything. So, they gave him a coupon for tires for future use, bought a clutch and pressure plate, brake pads and rotors, timing belt, and a transfer case.
The transfer case was making noise, they dun broke it. The timing belt was just to help the guy out since it was coming up on the mileage to replace it. The clutch can't really be inspected without pulling the engine, why not replace those bits (the pressure plate was as blue as a smurfs butt cheeks) while you're in there. I don't remember the bill, but it was very high.
And thats why I do all the service I can do and bring it too a shop where I know the employees well.
Actually, I brought my P71 to my dad's shop, and when they were done they brought out a St Charles County Sheriff's car. Rather funny. You get better stories when you are a repeat customer and now three shop well.
Good thing I can do EVERYTHING except alignments, AC work, and tires, here at home. Even then, I know the writers/countermen where I do go and they know I can fix what I bring them if I had the tools at home. So I get treated different then the rest.
I just started at a high end tire shop here in Atlanta. There is no way someone would do that at our shop. We do high speed balancing so we don't road test cars. People can watch what we are doing on their cars at all times.
Guess that is why people with luxury and super cars bring their vehicles to us and not discount tires or sears. ![](/media/img/icons/smilies/crazy-18.png)
Messed up it had to happen but sounds like quite a break as well, kinda makes me wonder how much "beers" has had to pay out due to employee dumbassery over time.
Ian F
PowerDork
10/8/12 7:57 p.m.
And as I'm sitting here fighting with the timing belt on the g/f's Volvo 850, this thread reminds me why...
Still... I'm getting to the point where this just isn't fun anymore and I don't care.
JtspellS wrote:
Messed up it had to happen but sounds like quite a break as well, kinda makes me wonder how much "beers" has had to pay out due to employee dumbassery over time.
Language NSFW.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sHT84A5t418
Ian F wrote:
And as I'm sitting here fighting with the timing belt on the g/f's Volvo 850, this thread reminds me why...
Still... I'm getting to the point where this just isn't fun anymore and I don't care.
But at this point, when it isn't fun anymore, where you pick your battles. I still live with my wife's Avalanche needing a lower ball joint, harmonic balancer, redo the front brakes (just put cheap pads on it before vacation), passenger side front axle seal, trans filter, rear axle fill, transfer case dump and refill, need some new window motors and something else I probably am forgetting. Don't even mention what I drive and what it needs..... ![](/media/img/icons/smilies/wink-18.png)
Now, I can understand the frustration on a timing belt if you had a Chrysler 2.4 in a PT Cruiser.....
I never leave a car anywhere. If I have to - I make sure the fuel light is on, trip meter is set to zero. I used to think it was because I am a control freak and a lunatic but as it turns out... in addition to that... I really can't trust anybody.
Ian F
PowerDork
10/9/12 6:39 a.m.
Ranger50 wrote:
Now, I can understand the frustration on a timing belt if you had a Chrysler 2.4 in a PT Cruiser.....
I'm sure I don't want to know... ![](/media/img/icons/smilies/whatthe-18.png)
It's just that this damn Volvo has fought me on every task I've had to do on it. And replacing the timing belt makes the TDI seem logical. I so wish I had a real factory service manual for this car. The Haynes and online stuff I've found have been damn near worthless. And as soon as this car is done, I have to get the E30 inside to clean up a few loose ends before I put it up for sale. And right after that, the TDI will be due for a 300K service. Nevermind both of the g/f's classic cars are broken and her MINI needs service as well. And I will only mention in passing the ongoing house renovation.
My Cummins needs a bunch of things as well, but I've basically decided anything that truck needs my mechanic will get to do.
It's hasn't been a good couple of months...
My GT6 is the only car that is more or less ok, and even then it needs an alternator...
Ian F wrote:
Ranger50 wrote:
Now, I can understand the frustration on a timing belt if you had a Chrysler 2.4 in a PT Cruiser.....
I'm sure I don't want to know...
It's just that this damn Volvo has fought me on every task I've had to do on it. And replacing the timing belt makes the TDI seem logical. I so wish I had a real factory service manual for this car. The Haynes and online stuff I've found have been damn near worthless. And as soon as this car is done, I have to get the E30 inside to clean up a few loose ends before I put it up for sale. And right after that, the TDI will be due for a 300K service. Nevermind both of the g/f's classic cars are broken and her MINI needs service as well. And I will only mention in passing the ongoing house renovation.
My Cummins needs a bunch of things as well, but I've basically decided anything that truck needs my mechanic will get to do.
It's hasn't been a good couple of months...
My GT6 is the only car that is more or less ok, and even then it needs an alternator...
There is a reason it costs upwards of $800, if not more, to replace it. Most of it is because there isn't any space to work on it.
When a car isn't fun, I quit working on it. When I have either calmed down or something is really broke and needs immediate attention, I will fix it and not a minute before then.
Bring your Dodge over, they aren't hard to work on and fix. ![](/media/img/icons/smilies/grin-18.png)
So the lesson of this story is that Sears is more responsible than a Chevy dealership ![](/media/img/icons/smilies/crazy-18.png)
Ian F
PowerDork
10/9/12 10:28 a.m.
Ranger50 wrote:
There is a reason it costs upwards of $800, if not more, to replace it. Most of it is because there isn't any space to work on it.
When a car isn't fun, I quit working on it. When I have either calmed down or something is really broke and needs immediate attention, I will fix it and not a minute before then.
Bring your Dodge over, they aren't hard to work on and fix.
Yeah... there are a few things that really have me stumped. The tensioner is held by a T45 bolt and there's isn't enough room to get a quality socket and a breaker bar on it. There is damn near zero clearance to get the belt on the crank pulley. Unlike the TDI, there is no mention anywhere about locking the camshafts and crank at TDC. I looked at the car and figured, "hell... I've done a TDI TB twice now with no problems... how hard could it be?"
The engine is the Dodge is fine.... it's everything else that is falling apart. The rear diff pinion seal is leaking... the 2nd gear syncro is going... it's got a 5th gear rattle... the steering pulls right... the cab sills are rapidly turning to earth... A previous owner managed to completely fubar the trailer brake controller wiring...
Enyar
Reader
10/9/12 2:59 p.m.
Reminds me of when I brought my Mustang in for an alignment and the guy gets back from the test drive followed by a cop car and some lady screaming at him for driving recklessly.
tuna55
UltraDork
10/9/12 3:11 p.m.
Ranger50 wrote:
Now, I can understand the frustration on a timing belt if you had a Chrysler 2.4 in a PT Cruiser.....
It's not that bad, I swear!
Anyway, I did that, amongst many other things, myself to avoid that very behavior. Well, sort of, I doubt they would be doing burnouts and donuts with a PT Cruiser.
Took my old SE-R to a local "tire place", left it for some reason I can't recall. My house is only about a mile from said tire shop and on what a lot of people assume is a fairly deserted road. I was sitting on my back porch when my car goes flying by doing about 80 to 90mph, and running wide open. About five minutes later, I got the "your car is ready" call. Rather than go for the "get them fired" tactic, I asked the manager if I could talk to the tech who worked on my car. Without the manager around, I had the following conversation with him:
Me: "So how did it test drive."
Him: "Oh no problems."
Me: "You, uh, "test drove" it past my house."
Him: "Oh" ![](/media/img/icons/smilies/googly-18.png)
Didn't say anything to the manager. Now, he volunteers to take my jobs when they come it, always goes the extra mile, and usually undercharges me for the labor.
kazoospec wrote:
Took my old SE-R to a local "tire place", left it for some reason I can't recall. My house is only about a mile from said tire shop and on what a lot of people assume is a fairly deserted road. I was sitting on my back porch when my car goes flying by doing about 80 to 90mph, and running wide open. About five minutes later, I got the "your car is ready" call. Rather than go for the "get them fired" tactic, I asked the manager if I could talk to the tech who worked on my car. Without the manager around, I had the following conversation with him:
Me: "So how did it test drive."
Him: "Oh no problems."
Me: "You, uh, "test drove" it past my house."
Him: "Oh"
Didn't say anything to the manager. Now, he volunteers to take my jobs when they come it, always goes the extra mile, and usually undercharges me for the labor.
possibly the greatest story ever told.....
kazoospec wrote:
Took my old SE-R to a local "tire place", left it for some reason I can't recall. My house is only about a mile from said tire shop and on what a lot of people assume is a fairly deserted road. I was sitting on my back porch when my car goes flying by doing about 80 to 90mph, and running wide open. About five minutes later, I got the "your car is ready" call. Rather than go for the "get them fired" tactic, I asked the manager if I could talk to the tech who worked on my car. Without the manager around, I had the following conversation with him:
Me: "So how did it test drive."
Him: "Oh no problems."
Me: "You, uh, "test drove" it past my house."
Him: "Oh"
Didn't say anything to the manager. Now, he volunteers to take my jobs when they come it, always goes the extra mile, and usually undercharges me for the labor.
That is an approach I would not have thought of. Kudos for thinking out of the box. You possible are keeping that tech and the guy that would have replaced him from doing the same thing. ![](/media/img/icons/smilies/grin-18.png)
Slight hijack. ![](/media/img/icons/smilies/laugh-18.png)
In reply to Ian F:
There's a timing mark on each cam gear that lines up with the marks (notches) on the upper part of the plastic cam cover. There's also a timing mark on the crank but it's damn near impossible to see on most. I use a sharpie/paint pen to highlight the marks. There is a tool to lock the cams and you can make your own pretty easily, but for just doing a timing belt on them I never bother, just make sure everything still lines up when finished, and crank it over by hand a few times. An interference engine with the timing off is bad news.
If your doing the timing belt, I'd suggest doing all related components i.e. tensioner, tensioner pulley, idler pulley, and the water pump too. Water pump will need new bolts too.
Also I've got VADIS good up to all '05 models I could burn on a DVD and send your way if ya want, or screen capture anything you might want.
Bay13 has about the best DIY procedure online: http://volvospeed.com/volvo_repairs_how_tos/engine_repairs/timing_belt_change.html
Be dang sure you're ready to pull the pin on the tensioner before you do, it's a pain to have to compress it again on the car.
PHeller
UltraDork
10/9/12 10:11 p.m.
Usually when I take a vehicle in and leave it, its for a problem that I know. I'm very straight forward for Service Managers. This is what I want done. Anything more, call me.
I've also found that telling them that I worked in automotive service for a few years usually gets them to be straight with me.
Giant Purple Snorklewacker wrote:
... trip meter is set to zero.
Bad idea. It can easily be returned to zero by the guilty party. Leave it at a high number, like 437. Remember the original number, instead.
Ian F
PowerDork
10/10/12 7:40 a.m.
In reply to bigdaddylee82:
Thanks. That should help a bit with the tight clearance around the crank pulley and overall routing.
We bought new tensioner and idler pulleys as well as a new tensioner (comes pre-pinned) and a new water pump. Any tips on getting the T45 bolt holding the tensioner pulley loose? Like I said, I've done a TDi belt twice, which is not the easiest car to do, but between Bentley and tdiclub.com, how-to documention is stellar compared to the Volvo.
Of course, I'm also replacing the struts, shocks and both drive axles while I have the car, so my frustration and patience are at all-time hi's and lows...
My g/f is always paranoid about mechanics joy-riding/beating on her cars. I never have worried, but then again, she's had cars worthy of joy-riding in ('95 & '97 M3's, her current '03 MCS), vs. my more mundane cars. Plus, I've been going to the same shop for 20 years.
Ian F wrote:
Any tips on getting the T45 bolt holding the tensioner pulley loose?
Can you get an allen wrench style T45 bit in there? Then you can just add in a nice long closed end wrench on it for leverage.
Ian F
PowerDork
10/10/12 7:54 a.m.
Ranger50 wrote:
Ian F wrote:
Any tips on getting the T45 bolt holding the tensioner pulley loose?
Can you get an allen wrench style T45 bit in there? Then you can just add in a nice long closed end wrench on it for leverage.
That's how one guy described it. He put a 5/16 wrench on a bit-socket with a pipe for added leverage. The problem is I actually have a T45 socket that is short enough to clear the sheet metal with a breaker bar on it, but the socket depth on the bolt is so shallow I can't get any sort of leverage on it before it torques out. The only idea I've come up with is to make a wooden wedge to drive between the metal and the wrench to hold it into the bolt.