The house I just bought had a new gas forced air unit installed in 2012. I noticed in the ductwork it has hookups for A/C (there is an evaporator pre-installed). Looks like it was cheap to add it when they put it in, but didn't want to go the whole way just yet.
How much can one expect to pay to have the compressor/condenser unit installed, lines run, etc? The unit is in the basement, so it should be a simple thing; drill two holes for the lines. The outside unit would be almost directly outside the basement from the breaker panel, so I can run some wire and a switchbox.
What else am I missing. Obviously a proper thermostat. Anything else?
You'll need to have a drain for the condensate. But otherwise you should be good to go.
Grizz
UltraDork
6/18/17 9:46 p.m.
The price depends on who you get to do it for you. Best bet is to get quotes.
Is the coil plugged still? If it's been open since 2012 I dunno that I'd even use it.
You'll only need one hole, maybe two inches tops for the low voltage and lineset. A pad for the outdoor unit since you wont have one. A whip and a disconnect but you said you could do that.
If you have a sump or drain you can get run a drain to a condensate pump and have it sent to that.
So outdoor, lineset, thermostat and wire, pad, disconnect with a 4 foot whip, condensate pump, and possibly an indoor coil depending on the condition of yours.
Do you have a spare 220v breaker slot?
I just had A/C compressor, evaporator, and lines replaced on my 1,200 sq ft home for $3,200 if that gives you an idea. Furnace and handler were okay, though the furnace is quite old. The handler, evap coil, and furnace are in the basement with a condensate drain going to the sump basin.
RossD
UltimaDork
6/19/17 10:41 a.m.
We had our evaporator coil, condenser, line set, pad, and disconnect replaced for $2800. 2.5 ton unit if I remember correctly.
eastpark wrote:
You'll need to have a drain for the condensate. But otherwise you should be good to go.
Conveniently already done. The sewer line is overhead in the basement. They installed a catch pump for the drippings already plumbed into the main line.
Grizz wrote:
The price depends on who you get to do it for you. Best bet is to get quotes.
Is the coil plugged still? If it's been open since 2012 I dunno that I'd even use it.
Hmmm... I'll have to check. What goes bad about them if left open?
You'll only need one hole, maybe two inches tops for the low voltage and lineset. A pad for the outdoor unit since you wont have one. A whip and a disconnect but you said you could do that.
$8 concrete paver from Lowes. Check.
If you have a sump or drain you can get run a drain to a condensate pump and have it sent to that.
So outdoor, lineset, thermostat and wire, pad, disconnect with a 4 foot whip, condensate pump, and possibly an indoor coil depending on the condition of yours.
So potentially everything
Thanks for all the help.
itsarebuild wrote:
Do you have a spare 220v breaker slot?
New 200A service done in 2004 with 7 breakouts unused, so room for three more 240v circuits should I need it. The only 240v circuits currently in use are furnace and stove. I much prefer gas stoves, so I also plan on converting there.
And of course the garage will need 240v It currently just has a 20A 120v breaker to operate lights and a few outlets. That's not going to be good for me.