Anti-seize compound

I put that E36 M3 on everything.

That is all.

I put it on turbo to exhaust studs once. That smoked a bit.

You like that? Have you tried Permatex copper high heat RTV on exhaust gaskets? Oh yeah....

Either anti-seize compound or loctite.

(Turbo studs and nuts are stainless and have lock plates.)

Duke wrote: I put that E36 M3 on everything. That is all.

I hate you. A lot. You're probably one of "those guys" who puts it on E36 M3 that gets taken apart often enough it's really not necessary and just makes a continuous mess

But if you only put it on parts that are known to suffer from corrosion, or are very rarely taken a part, then I like you, and agree.

Marine grade ?

Duke wrote: I put that E36 M3 on everything. That is all.

Have you discussed your fetish with your wife or a professional?

Aluminum on zinc coated bolts, nickel on stainless.

Any time a nut or bolt gets removed it's gonna get anti-seize unless it calls for special fastener lube or dry torque. Used it a lot on pipe flange gasket faces and flange bolts too, especially steam. The old gasket would easily peel right off instead of scraping both flange faces.. a PITA. Works wonders on pipe unions too. I can't imagine assembling anything w/o it.

cheap insurance, makes your life easier, a-little-dab-a-do-ya

Not on the hootus Otherwise I generally agree with the liberal application of antiseize, being a resident of the rustbelt it makes things come apart much easier. I still can't figure out though why there was a liberal application of it on the wheel studs of my E46 M3 when I bought it; that should be a dry torque spec application, right?

Never torque dry, it gives an inaccurate reading.

If anti-seize makes your lugs come off, you had bigger problems to start with.

Shawn

Any way to get that crap off of skin?

I swear its the syphilis of auto "lubes."

In reply to Appleseed:

lacquer thinner

Trans_Maro wrote: Never torque dry, it gives an inaccurate reading. If anti-seize makes your lugs come off, you had bigger problems to start with. Shawn

Absolutely, 150% incorrect. Lube gives the lugs incorrect (too high) torque reading. You're doing it wrong. I've been wondering why a lot of the cars I've bought lately have had lube on the lugs! Not only does it cause too high of torques, the main issue with it is the stretching/fatiguing of the studs as you are over torquing them. Torque recommendations for automotive wheel stud applications are dry!

Appleseed wrote: Any way to get that crap off of skin? I swear its the syphilis of auto "lubes."

You might be applying it to the wrong tool.

I use it on lugs but then undertorque them. Problem solved

I use it a lot. In terms of wheels I put it where the wheel and the rotor meet. LIving where they put salt on the roads it makes swaping wheels sooooo much easier. I also put it between the rotor and the hub so that I don't need BFH to get the rotors off.

I always MEAN to use it, i just never do.

Probably why my turbo manifold studs and nuts have magically become turbo "bolts."

That IS what is created when a nut fuses on a stud and you pull the stud out instead, right?

Can't really figure why you would want to add antiseize to a nut, when the point of the nut is to NOT MOVE.

HiTempguy wrote: Absolutely, 150% incorrect. Lube gives the lugs incorrect (too high) torque reading. You're doing it wrong. I've been wondering why a lot of the cars I've bought lately have had lube on the lugs! Not only does it cause too high of torques, the main issue with it is the stretching/fatiguing of the studs as you are over torquing them. Torque recommendations for automotive wheel stud applications are dry!

The manufacturer factors in unpredicable galling and binding into their torque calculations?

Pull the other one, it's got bells on.

Perhaps it's the tire monkey rattling the nuts on with an impact that is causing your problem.

It might also be that whomever is using the anti-seize is putting it on the seat of the wheel nuts and not just the thread. It it gets on the seat (where the clamping is done and where the torque reading will be generated) then it will certainly create an incorrect torque reading.

I torque mine with a torque wrench and I can always get them off with the tire iron. I don't even have to stand on it.

Shawn

Streetwiseguy wrote: Can't really figure why you would want to add antiseize to a nut, when the point of the nut is to NOT MOVE.

The nut is a fastener, not a welded joint.

Torque and proper fastener usage will keep the nut from moving.

Galling, corrosion etc are not proper methods of fastener retention.

If you're worried, use locktite instead. It still stops corrosion etc and locks the fastener.

Shawn

The maximum attainable installed tension force is determined using the smallest coefficient of friction in the threads When torquing a bolt, if dry, the higher suggest value is used, if lubricated then the lower value should be used.

Do not put it on the breech plug of a muzzleloader, apparently it reacts with the black powder residue and forms a locktite type substance. I do not have first hand experience with it.

Take it from a guy with several decades of experience wrenching on industrial vehicles & machinery, antiseize is my best friend. I have never once regretted using it. I frequently regret that more mechanics don't see it the same way.

This guy put together a nice discussion on the topic of antiseize on lugs: http://www.engineersedge.com/wwwboard/posts/13070.html His conclusion was ok on threads bad on mating surface.