Toyman01 wrote:
It's going to be 95% flat water rivers and swamps. No rapids, but some waves in the larger stretches of the rivers. I know the lower Waccamaw River can get 1'-2' swells on a windy day, but hanging to the leeward edge should keep me out of the worst of them.
Probably 75% of the trips are going to be camping trips, some of them multi-day, with the occasional day trip thrown in.
OK, that helps. The bigger the boat, the more it can carry. But, the harder it is to manuever in the water. Two smaller boats can snake their way through things that a bigger boat will be jammed up in.
A flatish bottom will give you lots of initial stability. This mean the boat will sit generally level and stable when you get into it, and for mild leaning over and such.
Don't ignore secondary stability! This is the way the boat flares out on the sides. Pretty lines that curl back in are devistating when you do accidentally lean over past the initial stability of that flat bottom. It's here that a boat with pretty lines tends to flip right over. A boat that continues to flare out in width will drop that section into the water, and stabilize again. Catch is, the boat is wide and harder to paddle as a result.
For these two reasons, I tend to go with a moderately narrow bottom for mildd initial stability, flaring for good secondary stability. This keeps the craft from being excessively wide.
A round bottom fore and aft virtually cannot go in a straight line. A bit of keel greatly helps, especially if there is this fore/aft roundness. Too much keel means you cannot get the boat to turn worth a darn.
A tail fin or rudder can help you greatly both with going straight, and turning, and especially for your own imbalance, which will have you constantly curling to one side or the other.
If you can't roll a kayak, don't get a "real" one with a skirt. You'll likely get hurt and or panic when upside down, and it's a real pain to get back in when you're out on the water. Skirted kayaks are also astonishingly hot.
Sit on top kayaks are some of the most fun boats to paddle around with. They are the miata of the paddle boats. Never tried taking one for a weekend camping trip, but there are models well suited for it, and with a few waterproof stuff sacks, it can certainly be done.
Don't discount rowboats. Yes, the heavy wooden things you paddled in summer camp are inherently awful. But, ever seen a rowing shell moving on the water? Look up "Adirondack Guideboat" for a splendid example of what a rowboat can be and do.
If you only have one car, paddle upstream from your launch point. Regardless of how minor the current is. All day paddling upstream will be reversed in two hours of downstream work.
Being a member of the GRMS board, you might want to explore some of the interesting things like fish fin propulsion, as well the use of an electric trolling motor, or even sail (though sails don't work worth a darn in a swamp).
Plastic boats are virtually indestructable. They go boing and pop over anything. If it gets dented, you kick it and pop it back out. Pretty easily repaired in use with duct tape. UV will take its toll after a few years in the sun. These can be moderately heavy.
Aluminum boats are terribly loud, also virtually indestructable, and pretty durn heavy. They also stick on every rock they hit. Aluminum is pretty rare now days, especially in kayaks.
Fiberglass is highly variable, but generally is the lightest, and while very strong pound for pound, because the pounds are minimal, they are typically rather fragile. When smashed into a rock, they can shatter out large areas. These tend to be the prettiest and most expensive boats. Especially if you look at an epoxy glass over wood boat.
A few names you may want to look into, just for interesting reference, "adirondack guideboat", "sea kayak", "pirogue", "punt", "pram" and "Dingy".
And if you're wondering if you could build one yourself, the answer is yes. Even I've been able to do it.