Ask and you shall receive (corrugated plastic content)

I walked out the door this morning and had a wtf moment. 

Seems my teammate decided to deliver the signs she got during the night. Now I can make all the corrugated plastic aero. 

Can you move this to the projects area?  I'd like to see how people do this- as when I see that stuff, it's strong in bending for one direction, but not so much the other- it's basically plastic corrugated cardboard.  And I know that folds easily one direction, really hard the other.

It will be interesting to see, really, how people use it.

Im with alfa.

re: wing building

it should be fine for that, as long as you have enough ribs... and you have a sufficiently strong spar running spanwise about 25% back from the front edge (another one around 75% will help it stay at the right angle, but doesn't need to be as beefy)

Free coroplast and some pine bucking

Plus fiberglass mat

Equals spoiler that holds up at 120+

In reply to alfadriver :

When I start on them I'll put it in the build section.  For those into salt water aquariums I used to make pod (small marine animals) condos with these that I'd float in the sump.  Just cut them into 3x5 sections and rubber band them together.  The little holes make great hiding places for the pods.

I bet if you did 2 layers of coroplast and alternated the direction 90 degrees so that he corrugation was perpendicular it would become much stronger on more than a single axis.

Seems like most coroplast is 4 or 5 mm thick, so you could have 2 layers and still be under half an inch thick.

STM317 said:

I bet if you did 2 layers of coroplast and alternated the direction 90 degrees so that he corrugation was perpendicular it would become much stronger on more than a single axis.

Seems like most coroplast is 4 or 5 mm thick, so you could have 2 layers and still be under half an inch thick.

This, and the layers bond really well with super glue.

In reply to STM317 :

That’s how i did mine.  I had 4x8 sheets show up in the ditch when someone presumably drove down the street without sufficient tie downs.  

GameboyRMH said:

STM317 said:

I bet if you did 2 layers of coroplast and alternated the direction 90 degrees so that he corrugation was perpendicular it would become much stronger on more than a single axis.

Seems like most coroplast is 4 or 5 mm thick, so you could have 2 layers and still be under half an inch thick.

This, and the layers bond really well with super glue.

Do they bond well with super glue? My internetting has told me otherwise.

Interesting.  How well does the clear stuff stand up to UV before yellowing?

In reply to Robbie :

Maybe scuffing them up so they're not as slick and shiny would make super glue work better?

Robbie said:

GameboyRMH said:

STM317 said:

I bet if you did 2 layers of coroplast and alternated the direction 90 degrees so that he corrugation was perpendicular it would become much stronger on more than a single axis.

Seems like most coroplast is 4 or 5 mm thick, so you could have 2 layers and still be under half an inch thick.

This, and the layers bond really well with super glue.

Do they bond well with super glue? My internetting has told me otherwise.

From my experience, yes they bond very well. I've just dashed some on and stuck the layers together with just a quick wipe with brake cleaner as prep, they were stuck so well that it's hard to pry them apart without severely damaging the individual layers. If you were to also scuff the surfaces first and apply a proper even coat of super glue, I'm sure you'd tear the corrugation apart completely before you separated the layers.

In reply to GameboyRMH :

excellent

anyone for biased double layer calibrated bending load tests?  ( I don't have the signs available where I am )

In reply to Robbie :

I think I'm going to experiment with plastic welding cause nothing's better than hot plastic stuck on your skin. 

Stampie said:

In reply to Robbie :

I think I'm going to experiment with plastic welding cause nothing's better than hot plastic stuck on your skin. 

I have also thought about the ring rivets (grommets?) like in the edges of tarps. Dunno if they'd handle the thickness.

I used hot glue.  It worked very well, and where I attached it to the wood supports i used drywall screws.  Second layer just glued to first at 90*.  

I've used pop rivets with body washers. This is under tray for one of my cars. Side pipe exhaust so aluminum where headers and pipes are with 10 mm plastic center to keep weight down. Diffuser will also be corrugated plastic.

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sleepyhead said:

anyone for biased double layer calibrated bending load tests?  ( I don't have the signs available where I am )

Come up with a method and I'll do it.

alfadriver said:

Can you move this to the projects area?  I'd like to see how people do this- as when I see that stuff, it's strong in bending for one direction, but not so much the other- it's basically plastic corrugated cardboard.  And I know that folds easily one direction, really hard the other.

It will be interesting

You assemble them with the corrugations perpendicular to one another, and it will be stiff.  I scuffed them up with red scotch pad and used hot glue gun in the past.  Far fewer signs this year than in the past

The vast majority of the signs I saw this year were just plastic sheeting.  I was wanting to make new undertrays for our cars.

Not free but my local Home Depot carries coroplast in 4ft*8ft sheets, in two thicknesses 3mm and 10mm

Metal to shape the plastic over!