Listen to the feedback. Your nice big bathroom with three fixtures doesn't appear big enough for four fixtures - despite the stated plan to move one wall near the old toilet.
Listen to the feedback. Your nice big bathroom with three fixtures doesn't appear big enough for four fixtures - despite the stated plan to move one wall near the old toilet.
Patrick said:Also don't underestimate the simplicity of buying a sterling or other good brand of fiberglass shower pan and just tiling the walls. It really doesn't detract from the appearance and makes everything not quite foolproof but a thousand times easier than tiling. Then you never have to scrub grout on the shower floor
Great point, Patrick.
I will ALWAYS choose a fiberglass pan over a tile floor (and I've been doing tile work for 40+ years)
The only reason to have a tile floor is because someone has been watching too much HGTV.
I haven't seen the one-piece toilets I don't think, I'm guessing they are pricey?
The folks who renovated our house before we bought it, bought the absolute cheapest Home Depot toilets available. Both tanks cracked. We bought new toilets, and just replaced the tanks so we didn't have to pull the bottom half.
I don't know if tank cracking is a concern with nicer/one-piece toilets.
Read my bathroom thread learn from my mistakes, and the advice given. Solid advice in that thread if you don't ignore it like I did.
How are you gonna get your drain and vent lines connected from your new vanity location?
Also... you are gonna have to move your HVAC floor register.
One more dimension to check... the diagonal measurement from the corner of the vanity to the corner of the tub should not be less than about 30".
Came here to suggest heated floors, specifically the Schluter Ditra system.
SV reX said:Your free standing tub needs about 34" from the wall.
A shower stall can be done in 32", but it's really tight. 36" should be minimum, plus 5" for the wall thickness.
A toilet can be done in 30", but that's extremely tight. I would allow a minimum of 36" from the leading edge of the tub to the shower wall.
That's 111". Now double check your tape. I think you have about 86" total width.
You are gonna spend thousands of dollars on this. Get the dimensions right before you start.
Good numbers to know, thanks for that. I will double check everything.
The shower I have measured out as 3'x4'. Can't remember the other measurements off the top of my head. The new layout does allow for the fact that I am making the room bigger. And I tried to oversize the tube dimensions since I don't know exactly which one I am getting yet.
Clearance from the vanity to the tub does have 30" with the current plans there.
I will have to re-consider using a fiberglass shower pan. That does seem like it would be easier to clean for sure... Only downside there is I do have a chimney that will take up a little bit of shower space.
My plan is to have the new wall framed in here in the next couple weeks before I actually dig into demo'ing the bathroom, then I can triple check measurements from how much space I was able to gain.
Yes, I know it's asking a lot out of one room, but I still think we can make it work.
Patrick said:In reply to SV reX :
frost the window glass or have a curtain if you don't want the neighbors getting a show. personally idgaf, it's their choice to look at my d when i'm peeing in my own home
This.
The bottom window pane is already frosted. It may get better frosting or at least a lower curtain, and really the planned toilet position isn't much different in relation to window view than it is now.
Also, thanks for all the feedback on the Schluter system, glad to hear that it's not just internet hype but is in fact a quality product. I will plan to use it.
In reply to AWSX1686 (Forum Supporter) :
If you do a fiberglass pan you can just get the kerdi membrane in a roll for the walls and it's significantly cheaper than buying the shower system. Tbh buying a fiberglass pan and the kerdi membrane plus the seal for around the faucet, all your mortars, and a drain for the pan is still going to be significantly less than the tile pan system without any of the wall membrane or mortars.
In reply to Patrick :
Noted, much appreciated!
I have two suggestions on the toilet.
1: Bidet toilet seat. Best thing ever!
2: If you get one with two different flush settings, make sure the controls can be easily worked by somebody with nails. My father installed one in his place with a split push button, I find it hard to work even without nails, I could not imagine trying to push it down with. This will keep the peace in the house.
Finally got enough progress to share an update.
Here's the bedroom wall that's shared with the bathroom. The bathroom is going to be expanded into this room.
Got the plaster stripped from this side. And also stared taking out some of the chimney. (Chimney hasn't been in use for long enough that whenever the current roof was put on, they closed over it. So it makes no sense to keep it there, especially since that's where the shower will be.)
Close up of the chimney area, also note the vent pipe. Didn't realize where the vent pipe was until I opened up the wall. New vent routing is going to be fun with all the different hookups planned.
Also, just look at how long this baseboard is. Couldn't easily get it down the steps so I just set it out the windows gently to get it out of the way. The trim in this house is a lot of what sold us on it.
AWSX1686 (Forum Supporter) said:SV reX said:Your free standing tub needs about 34" from the wall.
A shower stall can be done in 32", but it's really tight. 36" should be minimum, plus 5" for the wall thickness.
A toilet can be done in 30", but that's extremely tight. I would allow a minimum of 36" from the leading edge of the tub to the shower wall.
That's 111". Now double check your tape. I think you have about 86" total width.
You are gonna spend thousands of dollars on this. Get the dimensions right before you start.
Good numbers to know, thanks for that. I will double check everything.
The shower I have measured out as 3'x4'. Can't remember the other measurements off the top of my head. The new layout does allow for the fact that I am making the room bigger. And I tried to oversize the tube dimensions since I don't know exactly which one I am getting yet.
Clearance from the vanity to the tub does have 30" with the current plans there.
Tape on the floor was darn close. I got some more exact measurements now that the wall is partially demo'd.
Tape on the floor has the tub 33" out from the wall. (Different models I'm seeing are 28-30" wide, so that leaves some room from the wall as well.)
Tape for the 3'x4' shower and accounting for wall thickness is pretty darn close on the tape layout, and that leaves ~29-30 for the width of the toilet. I'm sure 36" would be more comfortable, but it's what I got.
Dimensions of the room are 106" wide, 112" deep.
In reply to AWSX1686 (Forum Supporter) :
Don't trash that baseboard! You'd be shocked to find out how much it will cost to replace it.
I always save every piece of trim until the job is complete. But I'd squirrel that piece away in the basement if it was my house.
Hah!
I was looking at your pictures, and about to ask if you lived in PA. Then I checked your profile! 
Something about PA construction...
SV reX said:In reply to AWSX1686 (Forum Supporter) :
Don't trash that baseboard! You'd be shocked to find out how much it will cost to replace it.
I always save every piece of trim until the job is complete. But I'd squirrel that piece away in the basement if it was my house.
Oh yes! The baseboard was moved for safekeeping. All the trim removed was as carefully as I could.
SV reX said:Hah!
I was looking at your pictures, and about to ask if you lived in PA. Then I checked your profile!
Something about PA construction...
That's funny and impressive. Are you saying you like PA construction, or it is distinctive?
In reply to AWSX1686 (Forum Supporter) :
Its distinctive.
I used to live there, so I had a lot of time to examine the details. But there are an awful lot of houses in PA that follow similar patterns. The tall facades, simple brickwork to the eaves (Moravian influence), rough sawn studs, plaster with wood large, infill brick on the exterior wall, and the general time frame of having been built in the mid 1800's. It all screams PA. The cast iron plumbing, the T&G subfloor, the chimney construction. Even the trim- fluted casings with rosettes, single pane glass in the windows with pockets for the counterbalances, and even that long piece of baseboard you pulled out. Its characteristic of the millions of board feet of similar baseboard that was milled in eastern PA in the mid 1800's.
Its the kind of work that was done in residences while steel mills and coal production were flourishing during the Industrial Revolution.
The giant windows are also a tip.
I wouldn't be surprised if you have a pretty narrow lot, you may be attached on 1 side to your neighbor, and you may have a service road at the back of your lot for trash collection. 
Its a small thing, but I highly recommend it. My old sink was 3 inches from the wall, and we constantly dropped things in the gap and it was very hard to keep clean. When I remodeled, I added a wooden box to the wall and snugged the sink against that. Now, the gap is filled, there is a little shelf to sit things on if you want, and its easier to keep clean.
Oh, if you are doing a complete remodel, add a hot water line and outlet to the toilet area for a bidet down the road. Your SO will thank you.
You'll need to log in to post.
