Bicycle challenge

In reply to John_Galt:

You can keep up with a decent name brand road bike on a $139 Wal Mart special? That's pretty darn good.

Otto_Maddox wrote: In reply to John_Galt: You can keep up with a decent name brand road bike on a $139 Wal Mart special? That's pretty darn good.

I can say this.....

My CL single speed creation ( an early 80's Fuji Valite) is faster on cement than my $900 Cannondale F series.

In reply to Grtechguy:

Why? What's the trick to bike speed?

Otto_Maddox wrote: In reply to Grtechguy: Why? What's the trick to bike speed?

Pedal faster

A road bike is just more efficient that a mountian bike. Lighter weight machine, larger diameter wheels that are lighter weight and taller gearing.

The roadies told me the key to speed was shaving body hair.

Later I discovered the key to bike speed was buying a recumbent.

Shawn

In reply to Trans_Maro:

Maybe the recumbent is the key for me. On a road bike, my back gets sore, my most important parts go numb after maybe an hour of riding and even my hands start to hurt. This happens regardless of my position, bike size, different seats, etc. This doesn't happen on my mountain bike regardless of how long I ride the trails. This leads me to the conclusion road bikes just aren't very comfortable for me to ride. I am a somewhat large, inflexible fellow, so that might be part of the problem.

I'm 260lbs, 6' tall and inflexible.

When I was a teenager I could ride almost anything for any length of time.

Now, after an hour or so my hands get tingly, my dangly bits go numb and my back starts to hurt.

I've got a ez-racer clone and it's pretty comfortable on long trips and as fast as my road bike with less hurt.

Shawn

EastCoastMojo wrote:

Otto_Maddox wrote: In reply to Grtechguy: Why? What's the trick to bike speed?

Pedal faster A road bike is just more efficient that a mountian bike. Lighter weight machine, larger diameter wheels that are lighter weight and taller gearing.

Don't forget rolling resistance, those big lugs are awful on the pavement.

One of my mtn bikes has an old pair of Panaracer Spike tires on it. It's awful to ride on the street but great on muddy trails.

Shawn

Otto_Maddox wrote: In reply to John_Galt: You can keep up with a decent name brand road bike on a $139 Wal Mart special? That's pretty darn good.

Well I can keep up with my brother...he wears army shorts and back pack when he rides...he's still pretty fast...no speedo on my bikeso I don't know how fast we ride, but we keep a pretty healthy pace. We both love steep hills, the cheap Walmart aluminum bike is uch easier to get uphills than my metal one...as much as I favor metal for most things.

John_Galt wrote:

Otto_Maddox wrote: In reply to John_Galt: You can keep up with a decent name brand road bike on a $139 Wal Mart special? That's pretty darn good.

Well I can keep up with my brother...he wears army shorts and back pack when he rides...he's still pretty fast...no speedo on my bikeso I don't know how fast we ride, but we keep a pretty healthy pace. We both love steep hills, the cheap Walmart aluminum bike is uch easier to get uphills than my metal one...as much as I favor metal for most things.

Pet peeve - Aluminum is metal.

In reply to DILYSI Dave:

No, if it was, magnets would stick to it. Right?

Question - will the old school quick release wheels on my Trek fit a modern DJ frame and fork? I know axles have gotten thicker, so the dropouts have gotten bigger, but can the old stuff still be run?

Speed? add lightness, reduce rolling resistance, and give a more aerodynamic riding position

My steel single speed Fuji weighs about 19-20 lbs.... rolling on 27" x 1" tires @ 90psi

My aluminum Cannondale, 24spd and front suspension comes in at 26lbs on 26" x 2" Heavy lugged tires @ 30psi.

two very, very different bikes. two very, very different riding styles.

DILYSI Dave wrote: Question - will the old school quick release wheels on my Trek fit a modern DJ frame and fork? I know axles have gotten thicker, so the dropouts have gotten bigger, but can the old stuff still be run?

Rear wheel, probably. Most mountain bikes have a 135mm axle spacing.

Front, possibly. If it's a normal fork, it will fit. If it's a 20mm through-axle, it won't.

That said, old wheels off a basic Trek won't take much DJ abuse.

With all of my recent bike questions, I'm digging this thread.

Got to get to the bike shop.

Well, just after the motor is installed in the car....

E-

CrackMonkey wrote:

DILYSI Dave wrote: Question - will the old school quick release wheels on my Trek fit a modern DJ frame and fork? I know axles have gotten thicker, so the dropouts have gotten bigger, but can the old stuff still be run?

Rear wheel, probably. Most mountain bikes have a 135mm axle spacing. Front, possibly. If it's a normal fork, it will fit. If it's a 20mm through-axle, it won't. That said, old wheels off a basic Trek won't take much DJ abuse.

The rear wheel is the best thing Mavic sold, in 1994. Dunno what that means now.

Front wheel is a stocker, and I agree - probably short for this world.

Ian F wrote: An even cheaper option is to buy a used Specialized P1 or similar... which can be found ready to ride for well under a grand and will easily hold up to anything you can throw at it.

And it begins - I just won this one - http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=170359067065

Any idea what size hubs fit it? 135/150? How about front?

How about Bottom Bracket? I've got a buddy who will hook me up with some Profiles with a 39T wheel and bash guard if the frame will take the 22mm spindle.

Ok, does anybody know anything about a Bianchi Bridgestone?

I have a friend who races road bikes, and I went riding with him on one of his bikes... big mistake. After riding one of his $$$$$ road bikes, I want one.

He called today, and said he had a Bianchi Bridgestone frame, along with a few bikes worth of used parts. The frame has a little surface rust, but just needs paint. He's willing to help me build a road bike for next to nothing.

So... what do you guys know about this bike? Also, he says the only thing I need to find is wheels. Any suggestions?

Total budget for the bike is $200.

Haha...I'm pretty sure Bianchi and Bridgestone aren't the same...Bridgestone actually made bikes for awhile.

Wheels are cheap.

The Specialized pictured above takes a normal mountain bike hub, same goes for the front. You may need stiffer springs in the fork. Also be prepared to hate riding long distances on the P1.

PHeller wrote: The Specialized pictured above takes a normal mountain bike hub, same goes for the front. You may need stiffer springs in the fork. Also be prepared to hate riding long distances on the P1.

Good stuff. Thanks.

Normal = 135mm wide rear by 3/8" axle? What about front? Any tips on where to get stiffer springs? I agree that I will need them.

Also - I'm fine with the limited distance. I'm not much of a distance rider anyway. I envision taking a 1 mile lap of the local park with my wife, before I trek off to the skate park portion and bust my ass, and then spend the next month healing. Rinse and repeat....

Yep - "normal mtb" is a 135mm hub. That fork uses a std 100mm QR front hub. (120mm 20mm thru-axle is more common for DJ'ing). I agree about the fork springs, but if the fork came on that frame, then the PO miht have already changed them.

To both of the guys with comfort/numbing issues - you guys don't have a "quality of bike" problem... you have a "quality of fit" problem. Go to a good roadie shop and get fitted. A $300 bike that fits is worth more to you than a $3000 bike that doesn't...

Getting fitted to a road bike is like getting an alignment for your car. Yes, if you know what you're doing, you can do it yourself, however, if you don't you can really screw something up. In the case of bike-fitting, this will equal PAIN for the rider.

PHeller wrote: Haha...I'm pretty sure Bianchi and Bridgestone aren't the same...Bridgestone actually made bikes for awhile. Wheels are cheap. The Specialized pictured above takes a normal mountain bike hub, same goes for the front. You may need stiffer springs in the fork. Also be prepared to hate riding long distances on the P1.

After seeing my Bianchi with about 5 different names on it, it could be both.

E-

Tommy Suddard wrote: Ok, does anybody know anything about a Bianchi Bridgestone?

Couldnt find squat on a bianchi Bridgestone. Bianchi is an italian company, so mot of their bikes are called "Brava" and "Nirone" and Volpe" and "Pista" and such. And yes, Bridgestone did make bikes or at least market their name on bikes...pretty OK for entry to mid level MTB stuff. I have a cheapo bstone MTB bike that I have lofty goals for. FWIW, I will only ride steel bikes from now on (read up in the front of the thread, I had a "catastrophic phailure" on a very highly regarded MTB company's Item, so no more airplane bikes for me), Steel is more comfortable due to slightly better vibration damping properties, is stronger in most cases, and I think the smaller tubes are much more visually pleasing. Steel bikes just look smaller or more minimalistic (oxymoron) and far more classy than ZOMG fluted-aqua-teen-hydro-molded-sculptured-forceflexed-awesomenessAlloy-tomfoolery. You could say I reaallly like my Bianchi. I wanted a classic italian road bike frame since I began taking riding seriously. I waited a long time for her, and I will never switch.

Tommy Suddard wrote: he says the only thing I need to find is wheels. Any suggestions? Total budget for the bike is $200.

you could prolly source good-ish wheels from a shop for~$70 fr, ~$100 rr. Most likely Shimano hubs in Weinmann rims. Just get something reasonable to start. Cheap wheels will last an amazingly long time if youre willing to learn how to true em and overhaul the hubs (not hard at all). While rotating mass in the wheels does affect performance, in your first season or 2, unless youre a mutant or something, you wont notice 15ozs that separate a <$100 wheel from a c-note plus wheel.

Advice: Get in good with a reputable shop. Dont source the cheapest wheels possible off the Interwebz and then go in and ask for help installing them. A good way to make frenemies with a shop is to go in, ask a bunch of questions about pros/cons of something, then go online to buy it and ask the shop to install. spending a few bucks and making your face recognized for being a repeat customer almost always pays off when youve got a "Sorry shop guys, I know its only 20 min till close on Friday night in the spring, but I gotta get my bottom bracket replaced and a new rear derailleur hung by tomorrow morning" scenario.

A good relationship with a good shop is equally as valuable as knowing an honest car mechanic who knows your cars factory manual backwards and forwards

AngryCorvair wrote:

David S. Wallens wrote: Do we need to add another class to the Challenge?

i think 1/4-mile drags on bicycles would be awesome!

How about a wheelie contest? And props for that celeste green Bianachi.

how bout no handed wheelie contest? not that I know anyone who might be able to do that since they spent years on a bmx bike or anything

and thx for bianchi love...I was soooo excited when I found it. even in non rolling condition and with really grungy crap all over it. Its kinda like finding a rough but unmolested CRX lying around somewhere...you can see potential even though all other people see is crap