I don't work on small engines. hate it with a passion.
that being said, im working on resurrecting my riding mower. 90's vintage murray. I love the damn thing. just fits me and my yard RIGHT.
anyway, I windowed the block on the original 13.5 horse briggs OHV. my uncle in law gave me a 20 something horse twin cylinder briggs from his totaled skagg zero turn for Christmas. engine only had 72 hours on it. kame complete with wiring, everything.
I now have it mounted in my murray, belts hooked up except for needing a pulley for the deck belt, fuel lines and choke cable ran, etc. still need to build exhaust, get a deck pulley, fit the hood back over this big old lump, and wire it.
nothing was wrong with the wiring in the murray, and the colors line up coming from the murray chassis harness and the briggs engine.
do I just match up the colors and go, or is it not this simple? also, is there any reason to go through the pain and hassle of adapting the skagg electrical system (have all of it except the safety switches and electric PTO pulley) other than it being only 3 years old?
im thinking that I can just match the colors, but I don't want to fry anything. and mower schematics for wiring are atrocious. I build custom harnesses for street rods, and cant figure out how to read these things.....
so, throw me a bone?
Michael
How many wires are there? Charging, starter solenoid, ignition (kill), ground. What else can there be? Should be fairly easy to sort out.
You've only got a few wires to deal with, the big wire to the starter, the kill wire and a few related to charging, this will probably be a little two wire connector. Some of those newer engines have a fuel cut solenoid you need to hook up too.
Now I've been known to just rip all the wiring out, and rewire it without all the "safety switches" hooked up to simplify things and improve reliability. But don't sue me if you chose to do so and cut your hand off, or it takes off across the yard and kills the neighbors cat.
none of the nader devices were operable on the murray, due to me bypassing the annoying pieces.
and the starter wire is easy. that leaves me with wires (gray and black I think) that went to the float on the carb, and two running up under the engine tin.
seems to me that the colors would be the same the whole way through, as the ones to the folat were the same colors as the engine I took off.
am I just overthinking this?
The two wire connector that runs to the float and under the cover is also the kill circuit IIRC. Other two are probably your charging wires, red to red black to black in most cases. You might pull the tins off for clarification, always good to check for mouse nests and stuff in there anyhow.
ok. will do tomorrow and report back.
after I have it running, ill make exhaust.
any reason to NOT try to start it with open ports on the heads?
also, any reccomendations on exhaust size/length, or am I overthinking it again? the skagg muffler assembly wont even come close to fitting the murray.
