You can drill up to 1/3 of the joist away provided its somewhat it the middle third. Try not to remove all of the material at the top or bottom. If you worried about structural integrity, plate each side with some 3/4 plywood and then drill thru. When your done and you put the floor back down, glued and screwed plywood adds a bunch of strength.
classicJackets said:Alright guys, one last question here as I'm setting up the drain. The minimum P-trap size per local code (for a bathtub with/without standing shower fixture) is 1.5" so that's what I'll be doing, but I had planned on a 2" pipe from the P-Trap to a Wye at the no-hub clamp where the toilet comes in.
My question here - the floor joists where the toilet/tub were mounted seem to be made/angled pretty specifically for those fixtures. Am I okay to drill a 2" hole through the 2x10 and run the new Tub drain through? I don't see much of a way around it but am hoping I'm not setting myself up for failure.
Thanks!
In this pic, tub will drain from the right (upper) to the left, where the cast iron pipe is snapped.
That's some horrible framing. There is no way I would be closing that up without significant re-framing of the floor.
tr8todd is right about drilling 1/3 of the joist. However in this case, I'd be careful.
The 1/3 rule assumes decent framing. You don't have decent framing.
First off, it looks like your P-trap is gonna run right into a joist. That would mean cutting the entire joist.
Secondly, I don't think you have joists 16" on center.
The joist that is centered under the tub...
- It's hanging by only nails- should have a hanger bracket
- It's supported by a small piece of blocking- should be a header
- The blocking is also hanging from only nails- should have a hanger brackets
- The blocking is attached to 2 single joists- should be doubles
- The framing around the old toilet location- Ummm....
- Does ANYTHING in that flooring system bear on any walls below??
A cast iron tub can weigh about 500 lbs. If its a large one, it could hold up to 82 lbs of water- that's another 683 lbs. Add a 250 lb person, and you could be trying to support 1400 lbs on that crappy floor framing.
Seriously. You're gonna have to do some framing before you do any plumbing.
SVreX said:classicJackets said:Alright guys, one last question here as I'm setting up the drain. The minimum P-trap size per local code (for a bathtub with/without standing shower fixture) is 1.5" so that's what I'll be doing, but I had planned on a 2" pipe from the P-Trap to a Wye at the no-hub clamp where the toilet comes in.
My question here - the floor joists where the toilet/tub were mounted seem to be made/angled pretty specifically for those fixtures. Am I okay to drill a 2" hole through the 2x10 and run the new Tub drain through? I don't see much of a way around it but am hoping I'm not setting myself up for failure.
Thanks!
In this pic, tub will drain from the right (upper) to the left, where the cast iron pipe is snapped.
That's some horrible framing. There is no way I would be closing that up without significant re-framing of the floor.
This +1. How bouncy is the floor now?I'm guessing pretty bouncy from that pic
In reply to Antihero :
It may not bounce much. Heart pine is very stiff. Tends to snap, instead of bounce.
SVreX said:In reply to Antihero :
It may not bounce much. Heart pine is very stiff. Tends to snap, instead of bounce.
Sure but 1400lbs of tub and just face nailed for all these years makes me think it's loosened up over the years
In reply to Antihero :
True
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