Can't remove ignition key, dammit

About 50% of the time the ignition cylinder will not return to release the key. '02 Pontiac GP SE 81K miles, DD, starting the nickel/ dime phase of life. Attempts of moving the wheel, tilt and moving the shifter through P-L have worked to release it but no definitive answer there... prolly just dumb luck. The ignition key is pretty well worn. I have an identical door key in good condition... IF I could just find it I'd have another chipped key made and try that.

I have no repair manual on this car and let the ALLDATA I had expire, besides that no place to work on it at the time being... and winter coming in. It's been a good car and will continue to be my DD until my slush fund will allow another car. I hate leaving the key in the ignition at the store or mall... even in the driveway. I've never heard of this before so it's a new one on me.

I'm not slacking here, I'll hit the googles and forums but as many have stated GRM is the go to place for all auto info. Any ideas or advice is highly appreciated.

TIA

buy a good ignition switch from the junkyard and put it in. the VATS can be bypassed- i don't know the procedure, but there are how-to's out on teh internets.

or you could just leave it as is, and wire in a separate switch setup with a push button for the starter like you'd see in a race car.... put a key switch for a lawnmower or something on it and it would at least be more secure than it is now..

Idk if its the same on that year, but on a 99 there is a hole in the steering column plastic under where the switch is that you can stick something in there and replease the ignition lock. Depending on what is broken that might help.

Make sure the button on the shifter comes all the way back out. Generally there is some sort of interlock that won't allow the release button on the shifter to move if the key is off, and vice versa.

For those times when you have to leave the ignition key in at the mall or home put something like The Club on the car.

If the key is worn that is most likely the problem. When I worked at the saturn dealer we had a lot of people come in with the same problem, 95% of the time a new key fixed it. It seems like GM keys are made out of very soft metal and wear out faster than any other key. Take it to a dealer and have a new key cut from the VIN.

GM's ignition lock cylinders will wear and get all kids of brass particles in them. Try this: use a screwdriver plastic handle and 'politely' rap on the end of the key as if you are trying to push it further into the lock. Don't beat on it! It might take several tries. Once the old key is out, get a new one cut from the VIN and then use contact cleaner (not brake cleaner or carb cleaner!) to hose out the ignition lock cylinder. Then use a small shot of WD40 or similar. Don't over oil it, it makes the brass particles stick together like mud. I've seen this same thing work on Chrysler ignition locks, too.

BTW, if it still feels sticky, get a new lock cylinder before it locks up on you again. The cylinders are easy to replace if you can still turn the key to the ACC position but if you can't it's a major undertaking.

My company car (Chevy HHR) had a similar situation. Something to do with the shifter interlock, IIRC. The work-around was as Travis mentioned. Pop the plastic plug, and I could just reach the plunger with a finger. I mentioned it when the car went in for other services, and the problem disappeared.

For your car, the key is suspect #1. Like Dad taught me, check the cheap and easy stuff first.

If that doesn't do it, find the fanboi sight for the car and see what they've posted. Set your BS filter pretty high.

Take all the extra keys off your key ring. As others have noted GM lock cylinders aren't the heaviest duty ones around. I had the same issue with a GMC van and taking all the other keys off the ring would double the life of the cylinder. I still replaced 6 within 3 years.

Thnx guys,

Too many variables and not enough time to berkeley w/ it, I have too much other E36 M3 to deal w/ right now, gonna take it to a independent shop that I trust n see what they say. I think you guys were right on the money though.

IIRC from fanboi site, dealers want $250 to cut a chipped key from the VIN, local locksmith advertises $99 w/ good key... which I can't find yet. I suspected the interlock as it acted that way early on, much worse now.

I hate to take my rides to other people to fix but ya gotta do what ya gotta do. If I could only find that goddamn door key I'd take a shot at it.