Deck Rebuild Time. Any on-line software to be found?

Verify All Dimensions

A 4 foot wide stairs winds up with only about 3 feet of clear opening after you add two 4x4 posts inside the 1.5" stair stringers. US code says that stair clear opening width has to be 3'-0" minimum including drywall and handrails. In this version I moved the stairs to the far side of the upper deck and made them 4'-6" wide. A 48" wide stairs winds up with 37.5" or 3'-1.5" clear opening as long as you don't add any handrails connected to the posts other than the top of the guardrail.

I have drawn this version with the steps at 4'-6", leaving a 3'-7.5" clear path and 6" between the outside of the steps to the house wall. The plan view doesn't show the railing in the proper location but the 3D view does. This allows some access to the basement window.

Those steps on the upper landing sure look narrow and steep. I sure wish we new the width of the upper landing at the top and bottom of the steps at the far left of the deck. And it's length. As well as the distance between the deck and the hose faucet on the left.

Verify All Dimensions

In reply to VolvoHeretic :

That's not actually correct. 
 

The IRC says:  

R311.7.1Width.

Stairways shall be not less than 36 inches (914 mm) in clear width at all points above the permitted handrail height and below the required headroom height. The clear width of stairways at and below the handrail height, including treads and landings, shall be not less than 311/2 inches (787 mm) where a handrail is installed on one side and 27 inches (698 mm) where handrails are installed on both sides.

My opinion is that a 4' 6" wide stair is MUCH too wide on a deck that size. It's a big waste of space. 3' is sufficient. 

BTW, as drawn those handrails are illegal (I know it's the software), and the landing is technically too short (in the US)

BTW, I think the minimum stair width in Canada is 860 mm (34")

Keith Tanner said:

It's not software, but this is a good document.

https://awc.org/wp-content/uploads/2022/02/AWC-DCA62012-DeckGuide-1405.pdf

I also recommend this guide and used it to build my son's deck.

In reply to SV reX :

Thanks for jumping in and clarifying the code which I no longer have access to. I don't use them often anymore and it's hard to remember anything.

VolvoHeretic said:

Keith Tanner said:

It's not software, but this is a good document.

https://awc.org/wp-content/uploads/2022/02/AWC-DCA62012-DeckGuide-1405.pdf

I also recommend this guide and used it to build my son's deck.

It's a really good reference, but it's not current. The newest reference in that document is 2014, and some of them date back to 2004.  There are a few things that are not up to code. 
 

There is a lot that will be up to the local AHJs  and their interpretations (for example, some places will not allow notching a support post even if it's a 6x6, and a 4x4 support post is perfectly acceptable in certain situations even though that guide says it is not)

In reply to SV reX :

Thanks for that info, we used post to beam metal connections and hurricane clips for beam to joist connections.

Above the Handrail Height

The IRC states that handrails must be between 34 and 38 inches tall. Therefore, all stairs above the handrail height measured from the floor (including the height of the treads) are subject to the following codes.

One Handrail

If a staircase has only one handrail on either the left or right side, the stairs above the handrail height must be a minimum of 31 1/2 inches wide.

Two Handrails

If a staircase has two handrails, one on both the right and left sides, the stairs above the handrail height must be a minimum of 27 inches wide.

At or Below the Handrail Height

According to the IRC code, handrails should be no less than 34 inches tall and 38 inches tall. In addition, any stairs that are at or below that height, measured from the ground, should follow the following guidelines.

Stairs that are at or below the handrail height must have a minimum clear width of 36 inches.

 I don't even understand what this means. "Stairs above the handrail height." Can handrails be notched into the side walls?

In reply to VolvoHeretic :

It means that handrails can encroach into the stairwell width. 
 

Railing assemblies are often not the full length of the stairs. Bottom few steps may be open, while the upper ones have drywall on both sides. Sections of steps with open railing systems are always a little wider than stairwells closed with drywall. 

SV reX said:

I would have fought making the upper landing that big, but it makes a really nice barbecue area. 

And that is where we landed! The BBQ gets promoted to the top deck. Nice for me because I do a lot of winter BBQ time,

The goal was to minimize the re-design insomuch as it used the existing framing and support infrastructure. The only significant change was to add the framing to the lower level so that the lower deck now goes all the way to the house under the upper deck. Nice place to stow deck-chair cushions in totes.

I bailed on the composite for several reasons.

1-No experience with using it

2-Existing joist were 16" centers and too much conversation of if that was doable or bad idea

3-Lot of variation between love and hate of the stuff online with no in-between

4-Cost

5-Heat. The back of the house faces west and deck is in direct sunlight for much of the day. Word on the Web is that Trex gets hotter than wood. 

Pretty much done except for the  stair handrail and some form of landscaping along the perimeter . I have the  stair rail "kit" that  matches the upper deck railing, but might not use it for aesthetic reasons. I do want a railing as the seem to have more purpose as I get older. Funny how for 32 years I did not feel the need. 

The finished product is going to look pretty much like what Volvoclearinhouse sketched out. I ended up extending only the front edge by about 29" Seems to give us all the room that the two of us will need and the option of tossing a few more chairs on deck if need be.

Nice! 👍

Yep, looks great.

In reply to VolvoHeretic :

Thanks. and apologies for credit to the wrong person for illustration. Your design pretty much matched what Home Depot came up with when we did an appointment with their "Deck Consultant". They were actually very helpful for someone doing this the first time.

FYI according to the bill of materials provided by Home Depot, the composite deck was going to be like 3k more than wood. That was NOT for the top-shelf composite either. For that kind of markup, I don't want mental uncertainty  going in to the project or in the results I want miracles and contentment on day one!

In reply to NOHOME :

No problems and you are welcome. Glad to help.