Difference Between Half and 3/4 Ton Towing Rigs

I know what actually physically differentiates them - axles, frame, transmission mods. I'll be towing an E30 at around 2500 lbs on an open trailer and I've heard people say that a half-ton truck won't be enough. My thinking would be that it'll be fine, but what do I know. I'm sure the 3/4 ton would be better, but is it worth the extra cost/fuel mileage hit? My question is this - how big is the difference in towing experience between the two?

On an interesting side note, Grand Wagoneers are wickedly cool, but I'm told they won't handle the load and the 360 has a short life. Still, if I could get inflight refueling while I tow, it would be a cool option.

I'm on a low budget, so whatever I get will be of the 90s. I do get concerned about safety on those old things when I'll be carrying around my girlfriend, and probably children (when I have them), so I dunno what the sentiments around here on DDing old rigs with your family.

And while we're on the topic of powerplants that measure 360 cubes, what is the life on the Chrysler LA engines found in the Ram, i.e. the 5.2L and 5.9L?

I searched the other threads, I really did, but I just needed a straight up answer (or several) pointing specifically to what I need.

A 3/4-ton usually has full-floating axles. I don't know the how's and why's behind it, but those are generally regarded as better for towing than the semi-floaters found in 1/2-tons. Were it me, I'd go with a 3/4-ton Diesel rig.

JetMech wrote: Were it me, I'd go with a 3/4-ton Diesel rig.

So would I if I had the cash, but it looks like they're out of my price range. My price range isn't very high. I may have to barter for a rig with chickens

The 1/2 ton will probably tow it without too much trouble. I pull a 20' enclosed trailer with a 1/2 ton van.

That said, if you can find one you can afford, get the 3/4 ton. Not only are the axles heavier, but the brakes are as well. They also usually come with a taller rear end gear.

JeepinMatt wrote:

JetMech wrote: Were it me, I'd go with a 3/4-ton Diesel rig.

So would I if I had the cash, but it looks like they're out of my price range. My price range isn't very high.

If you don't mind the asking, what is your price range? I did an AutoTrader search and found 42 Cummins-powered Dodges under $5K.

Nah I don't mind asking, I'm not secretive about what I'm spending. I need a truck within a year maybe, when the E30 loses its street-legal status, so it's not totally set in stone yet. $3-4k would be realistic. If I could swing $5k for a real good example, I'm not sure. I do get concerned about safety when I'll be carrying around my girlfriend every day.

It might take some digging, especially if you live in the Rust Belt, but you can find good deals on trucks. Two of the under-$5K Diesel rigs were near me, but I wouldn't buy either of them...

I've towed a 7500lb horse trailer with a 1/2 ton 2wd F150 and a 3/4 ton Dodge diesel. The Dodge was better but I never felt that the Ford was unsafe. If you're only pulling an open car trailer then a 1/2 ton will be fine. I really recommend electric trailer brakes and a decent controller though.

In Europe you see two horse trailers, with surge brakes, being pulled by Volvo wagons. I'd hate to have to make an emergency stop with that set up.

3800lb Tow vehicle, 2300lb race car, 1300lb trailer, never fear anything when I'm driving it. So if I can easily tow with my Crown Vic, I'd say that you will be more than happy with any full size pickup. I also definitely recommend electric brakes though. I honestly can't think of a reason not to have them.

I also drove cross country in an F150 towing a 24' closed trailer packed to the roof (just under 8000lbs) and It was plenty of truck for that trailer. Buying a 3/4 ton diesel for a 2500lb car on an open trailer is like buying an F150 for a 4X6 trailer....it's just overkill. Most 1/2 ton pickups have a trailer tow rating of about 7000lbs, that's almost double what you will be towing.

I've always had a real soft spot for '93-02 Rams, despite their quality control issues. In the same way a Triumph driver will stick their fingers in their ears and go Lalala when you make the reliability argument, I will still covet a Ram. One with a 5.9L (the same one I want to swap into my Jeep) would be great, as would a 5.2L. I know all about their transmissions, though. The only thing that has me concerned is their safety rating, particularly that of the IIHS. If it were just me, I'd be in one of those, or an old F-series with a 300 I6, or a late-70s C/K, or an early-50s Studebaker etc... But I'll have family (occasionally) and my girlfriend (frequently) in it. Tends to concern me. Thoughts?

1996-1999 1/2 ton chev/gmc with the vortec 5.7L. 4x4, non 4x4, whatever. It'll suit ya fine, get good gas mileage, and you'll have a decent truck to boot!

Did I mention how they are RIDICULOUSLY CHEAP?!

Its pretty easy math.

1) Add up the weight of your trailer, car on the trailer, equipment on the trailer, equipment in the tow rig, humans, animals and vegetables in the tow rig to see how much capacity you need.

2) Reference a handy chart like this to select a towing rig: http://www.trailerlife.com/images/downloads/99towingguide.pdf or http://www.trailerlife.com/images/towratings/07towratings.pdf

3) If your answer from step 1 is > 2000lbs, then add a trailer brake controller to the rig you selected in step 2. The "Prodigy P3" is a model that seems to be the one to beat, you can buy it at many online shops for under $150. I have it and strongly recommend it.

4) Tow with confidence.

General notes: Wheelbase is your friend. The more you have, the more influence you have on the trailer as you head down the highway. Also don't overlook Vans as tow rigs. Good for family room, or parts room, and you can see above that you have several to choose from with higher ratings.

You should be ok with a half ton pickup or van. Just use proper hitch and brakes. Use an equalizer and sway control. Get a good trans cooler. Stuff built in th 90's is far from old. Wear your seat belt, you'll be fine.

For what it's worth I have a 95 dodge ram with the 360. 120k hard miles on it. It did get a rebuilt transmission prior to my ownership. Tows fine, though I just had to take it off the road for good, as the combo of towing/plowing/road salt has caused some frame issues that It isn't worth fixing. It will still plow my yard, but like you, I don't want the wife and kid in it, so off the road it comes. Been very happy with the truck, and I know I've got more than my money's worth out of it. Truly sad to confine it to yard plow status.

I just managed to buy a 3/4 ton, big block Suburban for $1,800. Heavy duty rigs often don't seem to be much more expensive used than their smaller counterparts, so I'd spend the time tracking one down. I had been looking for a cargo van but in my price range they seem to be more likely to have been driven into the ground.

The 318 and 360 are nearly identical and both have pretty good lifespans - I'd be more worried about the transmission.

My 2000 Tundra would handle that load without any trouble or dealing with equalizers or sway controls. Can't comment on the domestics, but my Tundra is at 1/2 ton at most.

MadScientistMatt wrote: The 318 and 360 are nearly identical and both have pretty good lifespans - I'd be more worried about the transmission.

While both have good life spans, 318's will last forever. Even when over heating, or so I have been told.

Given what my 360 has lived through, I'm impressed it still runs and has plenty of power. Tough to kill them. As Neon states the transmission can have issues, but it is has been rebuilt by a decent shop, it should be fine.

Blizazer did a good job summarizing the right way to assess a tow vehicle.

Every vehicle ever made has a manufacturer's tow rating. That's what blizazer's reference chart is based on.

It's VERY simple to check the manufacturer's rating on ANY vehicle.

Exceeding the manufacturer's rating is an invitation to be denied an insurance claim and open a law suit should you ever have an issue, regardless of what mods the vehicle has or how comfortable you are towing with it.

Having said that, most full sized half ton trucks are rated for about 5000 lbs. However it would be worth the effort to find the 3/4 ton one. Towing is one area where bigger is in fact better. (I tow a lot, and have first hand experience with both towing well and poorly).

Tow vehicles with bad trannies can't tow very much. Your love affair with the Dodge will end the first time you miss a track day because the the Dodge is sitting in the driveway.

Trailer brakes rock, on all sized trailers.

I'd put in a vote for a Gen1 Ford Lightning. Several of my Lightning friends tow their race Lightnings with their street Lightnings. (F-150,351, E4OD,2wd)

sachilles wrote: For what it's worth I have a 95 dodge ram with the 360. 120k hard miles on it. It did get a rebuilt transmission prior to my ownership. Tows fine, though I just had to take it off the road for good, as the combo of towing/plowing/road salt has caused some frame issues that It isn't worth fixing. It will still plow my yard, but like you, I don't want the wife and kid in it, so off the road it comes. Been very happy with the truck, and I know I've got more than my money's worth out of it. Truly sad to confine it to yard plow status.

You're having frame issues that soon? Weird...Salt sucks, but this soon for a rust out? Thought that was a toyota thing

Fairly certain the truck did commercial plow duty before I got it. The rust and rot is in just a couple of key places. I don't think it was well cared for prior to my ownership. Other places look like they are factory new. It is kind of bizarre, but not out of character for vehicles in my neck of the woods.

I pulled an E36 on a 20' open trailer over 60k miles in 8yrs with a 2000 Tundra V8. It barely even cared that it was back there. I recently got a 20' enclosed trailer and with some balancing and a good weight distribution hitch it pulls it just fine as well (albeit it could use a more torque and I'd really like to bring more stuff).

My point is, while its technically a 1/2 ton truck by classification its not as beefy as a Chevy 1500 or F-150 so I think you will be more than fine if you buy a good, solid example of either of those with a towing package and a v8.

I bought my 95 1 ton Dodge Diesel dually for under 5k. Put 1k in mods, a set of gauges, wet sanded and buffed it, and had a decent looking truck and awesome tow rig. With the mods it puts down over 600 ft lbs of TQ to the wheels and still knocks done 20MPG unloaded. Oh yeah when I bought it I got the receipts for the auto tranny rebuild they had done...ATS triple disk converter, heavy duty clutches, shift kit, they really build it right and I haven't had a bit of transmission trouble out of it. I've had the truck for five years. I've towed with smaller trucks, and still tow my dirt bikes with a Cherokee most of the time, but I love the extra stability and TQ of the one ton diesel. My buddy has a 99 3/4 ton 4wd diesel and it also does and excellent job, but I prefer dual real wheels.

You know the answer over here in America "You want to pull a 4x8 utility trailer? pphhwwww well you could do it with a 1/2 ton, but I wouldn't touch it with less than a 3/4 ton, but hey it's your life so do what you like"

Over in the UK before I moved here I pulled a TR7 on a tandem axle trailer with no brakes behind a .....wait for it........ 1.8L Cavalier, yup, and no one thought that was unusual or commented. I admit once here I pulled my Miata then Fiesta with an E150 Van and that was much easier.

I'd say you fine with a 1/2 ton and trailer brakes.