re: lift
I guess I don't see how it matters how tall the posts are. If the pads go up to 6 ft, and you are lifting a minivan that high, you will need 11-12 ft of ceiling minimum, maybe more for an SUV.
But yes, I do still need to get into comparing and contrasting lift specs. I do appreciate the recommendations!
Tom Suddard wrote: It sounds like you're planning exactly what I'm building in the magazine, so let me know if you have any questions as far as how/why. I think my building is just barely under 15', too. And let me recommend Master Garage Builders, too. Best garage kit ever, and they'd deliver to you. This is a big project, btw. I just came in from sanding drywall.
You chose to make the building 3 stalls wide, I probably don't quite have that space (max width about 30'). Do you feel you have the depth necessary for all cases? and what cases are you planning for?
(heads back to re-read the articles, may answer his own questions)
Robbie wrote:Tom Suddard wrote: It sounds like you're planning exactly what I'm building in the magazine, so let me know if you have any questions as far as how/why. I think my building is just barely under 15', too. And let me recommend Master Garage Builders, too. Best garage kit ever, and they'd deliver to you. This is a big project, btw. I just came in from sanding drywall.Thought they were just local to FL! That must have been the concrete guy Stacey. I'll look them up now. I learned a few years back that the best tool for mudding/taping/sanding drywall was a checkbook. I'll screw the panels on, but holy crap does the rest of the work take an experienced hand.
Every drywaller I know will charge a higher rate to finish work if you hang the drywall.
"Screwing on the panels" is not as simple as it looks either. Most amateurs will put joints in all the wrong places, install butt joints against tapered joints, add excessive joints in a futile attempt to save a few dollars by using less drywall, and set screws poorly.
Yep, mine is 24x30, and while I haven't moved in yet (still finishing it), I have done a few projects in it along the way and am super happy with the depth. And yes, Master Garage Builders only assembles in Florida and Georgia, but they can deliver a kit for you to setup almost anywhere in the country.
Regarding the finishing–yep, that's the difficult/expensive part. Building the shell of the building was quick and easy, but finishing it is time-consuming and expensive. And I agree with Paul–either do the drywall yourself like I did, or farm it out completely. I don't think you'll find anybody that wants to tape and mud your work.
Coincidentally, Bendpak just announced they've come out with a two post lift that will fit 9 foot ceilings:
Interesting re: drywall
Two years ago I tore my house down to studs to insulate all the exterior walls. I learned how to hang drywall right, and after spending a weekend trying to mud/tape one single room I had someone come take a look. They bid $300 to mud/tape/sand the whole place. Two guys showed up the next day, one on stilts and the other on the ground and they knocked it out in about 6 hours. A couple days later one guy came back for 2-3 hours to do a quick sand and touch up.
It felt like I got the best deal in the world, maybe I did.
In reply to Robbie:
For the whole house?
Yep. You did.
Re: Drywall - You get WAY better at auto body after drywalling your entire house/shop.
Re: Covered Porch - Sometimes stuff just shows up after everything's all signed off and completed.
We're BACK!
Here is what I ended up with after working with the architect. Now I'm going through the process with the city and getting bids. In the second pic you can see we were able to get a full 12ft of inside height for a big chunk of the inside of the building.
Thoughts? Comments? Questions? What should I be focusing on now?
That's really nice.
Didnt you need an end entry?
What are the dimensions?
We ended up making it wider than deeper by a little, just because we are never going to use the small side yard on the far side of the garage, but we might use the space behind it. Therefore the entry doors are on the front for the cars and one on the side near the rear for people. Final dimensions 31 wide 27 deep. 837 sqft.
Cool
Ground is broken, footings and walls are poured! (yes, my village is 'over the top' requiring us to use formed footings rather than earthen footings). The slab should be poured tuesday or wednesday after giving the walls a few days to set up.
Footings:
Foundation Walls:
Looks like one hell of a Christmas present.
mazdeuce - Seth said:Looks like one hell of a Christmas present.
My wife said she was going to buy a big red bow and put it on the garage for Christmas. I told her to get a really high-end one since she was going to need to put the bow on the garage every Christmas, Father's day, and birthday for about the next 40 years, and I don't want a crappy, worn-out looking bow on my garage.
Require formed footings?? I've never heard of anything so ridiculous.
Congrats!
Congrats! I'm going to keep dreaming, maybe someday I'll have the chance to build a shop.
Some updates!
Forms off:
Backfilled, ready for slab pour, covered with blankets (this stuff happens fast!)
slab poured, recovered with blankets
they had a sunny day so they let the blankets air out a bit:
2x6 walls
More walls, giant beam
Front view - yes, those are 12ft walls in front
Sheeting started.
Some big changes in less than 2 weeks, I think they will be working on getting a roof up in the next day or two. Inside the concrete slab is also sealed and saw cut.
As soon as you can stand inside and not see sky it starts to feel like a real building.
Looks awesome.
I guess I posted some other stuff in a different thread, maybe I'll try to find it. But the garage has been up for a few months now and I love it. I can swing out a work after the kids go to bed, and get an hour or two in.
Pegboard went up last night.
This planning thread is done. I'll post updates in the newer thread found here:
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