I need to build a deck behind my house, it's going to be small (8 x 12) and for drainage reasons I can't do a concrete porch. It's going to be PT wood because I won't be here more than another couple of years and it'll be in the prime of its life then.
someone ask for education on ducks?
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SEIuL4SfeRQ
If you cut the bush by your deck, it'll look bigger...
My first house I put in a treated wooden deck. Sucked after 2 years.
X 2 with a permit.
Whatever you do, DO NOT fasten the deck to the house. Fasten it to the foundation. Last fall I had to have my house re-sided and a lot of moisture damage repaired along with the deck removed. Was very pricey!! Damage was caused from previous owner having the deck attached to the house and it trapped moisture between the deck and house causing rot and the masonite (pressed wood) siding to rot and crack. Ended up replacing the center section of a bay window, frame for the french doors off the living room, door and frame off the master bedroom, some floor joist kicker plates (whetever they are called, 2'X12') where the old deck was and a couple window frames in front of the house. House is now vinyl sided. After having the house repaired, a friend and I rebuilt the deck. 10X30. Attached with lag bolts to the brick foundation, floor joists 16" on center, double thick outboard support and added more 4X4 support poles set in concrete. Deck doesn't move when multple people jump on it. Did have to build a step at the doors. I'll add pictures later.
carguy123 wrote:
I walk on any number of composite decks here in Texas and even in the 100 degree days I haven't found them to be hot. Well not any hotter than wood.
I'm about to install a ground level composite patio rather than use pavers because it's much cooler than the concrete pavers.
Same here. Last summer was a scorcher for us (over 10 days above 100*) and I never thought it was any hotter than the wood deck that replaced it. If anything, it felt like it cooled off faster when the shade hit it.
YMMV
Streetwiseguy wrote:
bluej wrote:
Streetwiseguy wrote:
My wife made me bust up the patio and build a deck 25 years ago. She is moving out at the end of May, and the second thing I do when I sober up is burn the deck and put down a patio.
What's the first?
I have 2 trees to kill.
"trees" = "hookers who look like ex-wife"
SVreX
MegaDork
4/10/13 5:10 p.m.
wlkelley3 wrote:
Whatever you do, DO NOT fasten the deck to the house. Fasten it to the foundation. Last fall I had to have my house re-sided and a lot of moisture damage repaired along with the deck removed. Was very pricey!! Damage was caused from previous owner having the deck attached to the house and it trapped moisture between the deck and house causing rot and the masonite (pressed wood) siding to rot and crack. Ended up replacing the center section of a bay window, frame for the french doors off the living room, door and frame off the master bedroom, some floor joist kicker plates (whetever they are called, 2'X12') where the old deck was and a couple window frames in front of the house. House is now vinyl sided. After having the house repaired, a friend and I rebuilt the deck. 10X30. Attached with lag bolts to the brick foundation, floor joists 16" on center, double thick outboard support and added more 4X4 support poles set in concrete. Deck doesn't move when multple people jump on it. Did have to build a step at the doors. I'll add pictures later.
OK, I tried to let this slide when earlier mentioned in this thread, but can't hold myself back anymore.
There is NOTHING wrong with fastening a deck to the house. The problem is, most people do it incorrectly.
Yours needed to be flashed properly. Could have saved thousands of dollars.
I am hoping you did not actually use lag bolts to anchor it to the foundation. If you did, you are gonna have another failure.
Lag bolts are actually screws. The only way they could have been used to secure to masonry is with lead (or other) anchors. Lag bolts and anchors are NOT designed to have adequate shear strength to hold a deck. They are designed for clamping strength, not shear.
Additionally, those bolts you bought at Lowes (presumably) are total crap. They are the lowest grade possible, and WILL rust (even if they are galvanized). If you have not flashed the ribbon joist properly (again), the water will get between the joist and the wall, rusting the bolts, and they will break.
You need to add thru-bolts or all thread that goes completely through the foundation wall, and has steel backer plates on the rear distributing the weight across several blocks. Then you need to make sure the deck ribbon joist is properly flashed- water should NOT EVER go between the joist and the wall.
Decks fail because beer drinkers are fat, and they all congregate in the same spot when they are bar-b-queing and BSing about football. A herd of fat beer drinkers riding a deck down is an ugly sight.