Electric and insulating a pole barn

I have a 28x32 pole barn that I have put off for years upgrading the electric. I ran the 220 for the compressor and the lift years ago but I have only a few outlets and so I have decided to pay someone to upgrade the 110. 100 amp panel was installed prior to adding the 220 so I'm good there. The thing is, I will eventually want to insulate the building but I'm not sure how to insulate a pole building. Do I have to install 2x4 walls in between the posts to hold the insulation? I'm guessing that this should be done before the electric(the walls). Also, I wanted to use metal conduit instead of romex and several people I have talked to think I'm crazy. My thought is since I want to cover the walls with something other than dry wall (plywood?) that I could put a nail to hang something without hitting the wire in the wall. Any thoughts?

In a pole barn I'd probably do whatever for insulation(not sure), then run all the steel conduit exposed on the walls pretty high up (dropping down for outlets and switches). This makes it all very easy to work on, upgrade, add onto, etc. Consider incorporating pegboard into the walls, I wouldn't use any drywall, too easy to accidentally poke holes in.

Spray foam insulation is the answer. I used it in the shop and it works very well. The spry foam makes the place air tight and quiet from the outside.

Then get an infrared tube heater; you can leave it just above freezing, with the ability to be working in shirtsleeves within half an hour.

My dad did his a few years ago. He used metal conduit for some of the electrical runs, which allows it to remain exposed. This makes it easy to move or adjust later on. As for the walls, he used the inch and a half, "sheet foam" insulation. He did build a 2X4 wall in between the posts, but ran the 2X4's vertically on about a 30 inch center, with the boards flat against the outside sheeting. The sheet foam was then press fit in between the 2X4's with a little adhesive. (Its super easy to cut the foam to the right length and width with a table saw) Way less materials and work than building a full wall. The outlets he was sure about he recessed channels into the foam for, the ones he wasn't were done in conduit. Eventually, he ended up sheeting most of the inside with thin OSB.

Hope that all makes sense. It came out really well and, as far as I know, was relatively economical. Also, putting the 2X4's flat against the wall means you chew up a little less of your space. Hope that helps.

NOHOME wrote: Spray foam insulation is the answer. I used it in the shop and it works very well. The spry foam makes the place air tight and quiet from the outside. Then get an infrared tube heater; you can leave it just above freezing, with the ability to be working in shirtsleeves within half an hour.

...and the ability to burn the place to the ground within half an hour, too. The spray foam insulation is incredibly flammable, even in its cured state. At a minimum, it needs to be painted with a special paint that protects it against excessive heat and ignition sources. Something like this.

Duke wrote: ...and the ability to burn the place to the ground within half an hour, too.

Well, any insulation is supposed to be covered with some sort of barrier.

You can leave FSK (foil scrim kraft) faced batt insulation exposed if you tape the joints (which you should anyway). And most non-retrofit pole barn / prenegineered metal building insulations (the kind of bagged blankets that go between the girts/purlins and exterior panels are meant to be exposed.

But the spray-applied foams are heap big flammable if left uncovered.

Duke wrote:

NOHOME wrote: Spray foam insulation is the answer. I used it in the shop and it works very well. The spry foam makes the place air tight and quiet from the outside. Then get an infrared tube heater; you can leave it just above freezing, with the ability to be working in shirtsleeves within half an hour.

...and the ability to burn the place to the ground within half an hour, too. The spray foam insulation is *incredibly* flammable, even in its cured state. At a minimum, it needs to be painted with a special paint that protects it against excessive heat and ignition sources. Something like this.

Should I be concerned that my entire attic ceiling is coated in spray foam.

In reply to bgkast:

Here's some light reading for you:

http://publicecodes.cyberregs.com/icod/irc/2012/icod_irc_2012_3_sec016.htm?bu2=undefined R316.5.3 Attics is the part you're looking for, a few paragraphs down.

www.sprayfoam.org

http://www.greenbuildingadvisor.com/blogs/dept/musings/thermal-barriers-and-ignition-barriers-spray-foam

http://www.energyvanguard.com/blog-building-science-HERS-BPI/bid/72240/Does-Your-Spray-Foam-Insulation-Need-a-Thermal-or-Ignition-Barrier

In reply to Duke:

Thanks. Looks like I'm OK unless I store stuff in the attic. I should chat with the building official I share an office with.

Doesn't someone make foam board with nonflammable properties?

Not really. You can spray it with that intumescent paint, though. It's easiest just to cover it with drywall, with the 48" at the bottom of the wall being 1/2" plywood instead.

kazoospec wrote: My dad did his a few years ago. He used metal conduit for some of the electrical runs, which allows it to remain exposed. This makes it easy to move or adjust later on. As for the walls, he used the inch and a half, "sheet foam" insulation. He did build a 2X4 wall in between the posts, but ran the 2X4's vertically on about a 30 inch center, with the boards flat against the outside sheeting. The sheet foam was then press fit in between the 2X4's with a little adhesive. (Its super easy to cut the foam to the right length and width with a table saw) Way less materials and work than building a full wall. The outlets he was sure about he recessed channels into the foam for, the ones he wasn't were done in conduit. Eventually, he ended up sheeting most of the inside with thin OSB. Hope that all makes sense. It came out really well and, as far as I know, was relatively economical. Also, putting the 2X4's flat against the wall means you chew up a little less of your space. Hope that helps.

This sounds like a good plan. Did your dad run the conduit down the main posts?

Hi, I have insulated my pole barns colorado springs using blanket and wrap insulation. The procedure includes wrapping everything with nylon reinforced plastic wrap. This tough plastic has cords running through it for strength. The object is to cover all of the blanket insulation with the building wrap. It just makes the blanket insulation look good. You can try for this technique if you don't want to go for drywall.

ethelspringer wrote: Hi, I have insulated my pole barns colorado springs using blanket and wrap insulation. The procedure includes wrapping everything with nylon reinforced plastic wrap. This tough plastic has cords running through it for strength. The object is to cover all of the blanket insulation with the building wrap. It just makes the blanket insulation look good. You can try for this technique if you don't want to go for drywall.

canoe

In reply to rustybugkiller:

Dow Thermax is one option