Freeing an obscenely stuck bolt?

I could use some tips on freeing the most obscenely stuck bolt I've ever dealt with.

Bolt in question is on a dump bin at the brewery. It holds on and acts as a pivot for the arm to release the bin. Everything is rusted and the lever barely wants to move. Need to get the bolt out to free up the arm and clean it up.

We ground off the end of the bolt with the nut. I'm currently trying to hammer the bolt through with a flathead screwdriver and a ~2lbs iron mallet. It does not want to budge though.

I figure all y'all are likely to have advice on how to remove absurdly stuck bolts.

kroil and oxy acetylene torch.

Still has a head on the other end?  Can you get it to spin with a big impact gun?  I'd alternate directions until it spins, then it should be easier to remove.

Also, get the thing it goes through as hot as you dare.

Trying very much to shake the image of an "obscenely stuck" bolt.

Kendall_Jones said:

kroil and oxy acetylene torch.

This. 

¯\_(ツ)_/¯ said:

Still has a head on the other end?  Can you get it to spin with a big impact gun?  I'd alternate directions until it spins, then it should be easier to remove.

Also, get the thing it goes through as hot as you dare.

Unfortunately not. They cut the head off thinking I could punch it through either way before I thought about it to stop them.

Hottest torch I have is a small propane torch.

Hitting things with a hammer, the bolt appears to be free from the blocks of the housing on the bin, and bound to the arm sandwiched in the middle. The good news with this though, is that it means we actually can operate the latch handle.

If I get my hands on an oxy acetylene torch, what am I supposed to heat up? How hot?

If there are reasons not to use a torch, and you have access straight through, a good sized drill and a bunch of patience will work.

In reply to Streetwiseguy :

Agreed.

If you decide to go with heat, heat the surrounding area, then try to drive the bolt out.  I like to put wax against the bolt as capillary action draws it into the gap between and helps lube it all, but anything oil or greaselike should do the same.

If you go with heat, you want to heat the surrounding area to make it grow and let go.  In harder cases you can alternately heat the surrounding area, then the bolt, then the surrounding area.... basically make movement happen between the bolt and the surrounding area.

But the idea for the final drive is to heat the stuff around the bolt more than you heat the bolt.  Then a good pneumatic hammer blast should push it out.

If not, buy the good drill bits and start drilling.

Beer Baron said:

Hottest torch I have is a small propane torch

Assuming you are talking about a plumbers torch, you can buy cans of MAPP gas for those at any hardware store and they supposedly burn way hotter than propane.

If possible heat what the bolt is stuck in rather than the bolt.

Would a two or three jaw puller or a ball joint press fit in there to help get it apart?

oh... and for penetrating oils.  I find that candles work well.  Many of the penetrating oils are too volatile and just burn off/evaporate at temperatures before they can do the work.

My go-to for things like exhaust manifold flange bolts is to heat the bolt and flange to the first sign of glowing red.  Then keep touching it with a taper candle.  If you get sizzle or flame, it's too hot.  If you get a bit of smoke, that's ok.  If you get no smoke but a good melt, still ok.  The paraffin will get drawn into the seized spaces and help.

gearheadmb said:

Beer Baron said:

Hottest torch I have is a small propane torch

Assuming you are talking about a plumbers torch, you can buy cans of MAPP gas for those at any hardware store and they supposedly burn way hotter than propane.

If possible heat what the bolt is stuck in rather than the bolt.

Would a two or three jaw puller or a ball joint press fit in there to help get it apart?

My thoughts as well.

If you have an air compressor and a pneumatic chisel, there isn't much you can't do.  Put a point bit in the chisel and start rattling the crap out of stuff.

gearheadmb said:

Beer Baron said:

Hottest torch I have is a small propane torch

Assuming you are talking about a plumbers torch, you can buy cans of MAPP gas for those at any hardware store and they supposedly burn way hotter than propane.

If possible heat what the bolt is stuck in rather than the bolt.

Would a two or three jaw puller or a ball joint press fit in there to help get it apart?

MAPP is hotter than propane, yes.

I'm late to the party, but have a couple things.

I thought Mapp cyl. only fit on a special torch... not interchangeable with the propane bottles. I donno; have both - rarely use either.

And to the OP... a screwdriver IS NOT a replacement for a drift punch!  Aside from the safety aspect (hey, we all break safety rules sometimes, even when there are not any written rules to follow!) its just not effective at transferring the impact of a decent blow. Use a decent chunk of steel. and try not to hit a hardened piece with a hardened piece like a hammer face.

Heat, I've had best luck with PB Blaster, a real metal punch, a bigger hammer and an air chisel.

Apply one, it all of those if need be. Personally I'd start with PB Blaster, a good punch and a at least 8 lb sledgehammer

Assuming a 5/8 or larger bolt dia., I agree with Antihero.

For 3/8 dia. bolt subsitute 2-4 lb hammer

As mentioned, heat and penetrant can cause interesting effects. Use caution.

I've found that Kroil will penetrate (vibration helps) the best of any of them. PB blaster has better lubricating properties, and penetrates almost as well.

Had not heard of wax, till I saw a post of Curtis's in the last couple years. Would have been a skeptic, except I trust the source! Have not had (or needed, fortunately) to try yet.

Have seen, when heating around the bolt does not work... heat the bolt cherry red, letting it all heat soak, and then put massive amount of water flow on it, continuing flow until all is room temp. Than can break the bond. Can also crack stuff, so be wary!

Was there a nut on the opposing face? Put the nut back on and hit it with the impact. 
 

Aw crickey, I see that they cut both ends.

A screwdriver is a lousy drift punch. Most do not have a tang that goes all the way through the handle, so the handle is absorbing energy. Plus, they can shatter. 
 

(Yes, every screwdriver in my toolbox has been whacked with a hammer.)

You said dump bin and pivot. Is this a 3/4" bolt, or something really big like a 2" bolt?

If the handle is currently working, is there any reason to pull the rest of the bolt? 

Toyman01 + Sized and said:

If the handle is currently working, is there any reason to pull the rest of the bolt? 

This is the point I have reached. It works, and that's good enough. Some might argue it's a safety hazard and could come undone if that bolt starts to move. If that happens though... that solves my problem and I can go back to Plan A.

Also, I thought I was going to need this bin next week, but we decided we're not in a rush and pushed a brew back by a week. So I no longer need this extra bin for back-to-back days.

In reply to Beer Baron :

This is good. Penetrating fluid needs time to work. Give it a squirt every day for a week, then give it another go.

Just curious what the bolt's diameter is and how much of the shank is engaged by something.  PB Blaster every day, then a torch if required.  Worse case scenario, drill out the bolt (use 5/8" drill for 3/4" bolt) then fold the bolt into itself.

If you get the bolt out and want to clean up the hole. let me know, I can send you a whip.

I want to see a picture of the situation. 

I know it's not a lug nut, but no one has recommended a shotgun yet?

Air hammer all day long with some of your favorite penetrating oil.  At least 24 hrs soak, then bump it with an air hammer.  If it moves, keep hitting it,  If not, hit it with some more oil and try again tomorrow.  

Make sure its ground completely flush on whichever side you are hammering on.  If it doesnt move reasonably quick with the air hammer, stop, or you are risking swaging out the shank of the bolt and now you are really and truly screwed.

Otherwise...

Shotgun

EDM

Mag drill with a really nice bit.