1988RedT2
1988RedT2 MegaDork
10/23/21 1:39 p.m.

So I'm working on getting fuel from the tank to the Holley Sniper sitting on the intake.  I have the Holley in-tank pump/sender unit which terminates with a 3/8" hose barb.  I have injection-rated 3/8" rubber fuel hose.  I want to adapt the fuel hose to a hard line (3/8" aluminum tube) which runs from the rear of the car to the engine compartment.

Can someone link to a product which will accomplish this?  I have searched high and low and bought a few things that don't do what I want it to do. 

AFAIK, I need a male-threaded part that will slip onto the hard line, a compression sleeve, and a female threaded part that terminates in a 3/8" hose barb.  Does such thing not exist?  Am I doing this wrong?

Vehicle is 1966 Chevy II project.

matthewmcl
matthewmcl HalfDork
10/23/21 2:11 p.m.

If you are fine connecting to the hard line with soft line, I think you need a bubble flare type tool to prep the aluminum tube to take soft line directly.

1988RedT2
1988RedT2 MegaDork
10/23/21 2:58 p.m.

i mean, yeah, that would work....  I figured as soft as the aluminum tubing is, I wanted something more substantial to clamp the hose to, like an extruded fitting.  Can't believe they don't make something for this purpose.

Pete. (l33t FS)
Pete. (l33t FS) GRM+ Memberand MegaDork
10/23/21 3:13 p.m.

Probably because it's easier to just clamp the hose on to the aluminum.

 

That said, I would not use aluminum hardline.  Someone was telling me he had carb problems because modern fuel was oxidizing it, or something, and filling the carb with junk.  He switched to steel line and problems were gone.

bgkast
bgkast GRM+ Memberand PowerDork
10/23/21 3:18 p.m.

X2 on not using aluminum hard tube. There's a risk of cracking from work hardening due to vibration.

 

What pressure is your fuel system running at?

1988RedT2
1988RedT2 MegaDork
10/23/21 3:22 p.m.

In reply to bgkast :

I'm ballparking 60psi.  It's a Holley Sniper EFI system.

 

Edit:  Decision to go aluminum hard line was made back when we were thinking carburetor. 

Might be a good time to re-think.

I didn't want to run braided flexible line the whole way, but maybe that's the way to go?

bgkast
bgkast GRM+ Memberand PowerDork
10/23/21 3:33 p.m.

I would look at something like this: https://www.summitracing.com/parts/ear-at165006erl?seid=srese1&gclid=CjwKCAjw5c6LBhBdEiwAP9ejG4_gdN9ZespRIYWLbdgs_c3WHhOUdTjI6g7avu4WaUCIl7FIyes-ORoCTPoQAvD_BwE

stuart in mn
stuart in mn MegaDork
10/23/21 3:41 p.m.

For hard lines I'd look at using copper-nickel alloy, often call NiCopp.  It's used for brake lines so it can easily handle the pressure of a fuel system.  It's corrosion resistant, and easy to bend and flare.  You should be able to get it at your local auto parts store, or online from Summit, Jegs, or Amazon.  Here's one source for 3/8" tube: https://www.amazon.com/Roll-Copper-Nickel-Fuel-Transmission/dp/B015YGREXU

TurnerX19
TurnerX19 UltraDork
10/23/21 5:03 p.m.

I will chime in to second stuart in mn's comment about NiCop hard line. NAPA stocks it from 3/16 to 3/8 diameter. Does not get eaten away like some alloys of aluminum, easy to bend, and even re-bend. I use it every time I need to put a line in a customer car.

FieroReinke
FieroReinke New Reader
10/23/21 6:38 p.m.

on the locost I used sticks of 5/16 brake line from the local auto parts store and flare to barb adapters to get to the fuel injection hoses at each end.  

 

https://www.amazon.com/LTWFITTING-Brass-Fitting-Female-Swivel/dp/B01LX77XD2

Toyman01 + Sized and
Toyman01 + Sized and GRM+ Memberand MegaDork
10/23/21 6:45 p.m.

I used aluminum on SanFord because of no pressure, only suction from the mechanical pump. 

On the B210 I used Nylon EFI tubing and quick connect fittings. I was very happy with how it worked. 

This kit.

jfryjfry
jfryjfry SuperDork
10/23/21 8:13 p.m.

Nicop ftw.  For all the reasons listed above

1988RedT2
1988RedT2 MegaDork
10/24/21 10:55 a.m.

Thank you!  I count you all among my many blessings.

Pete. (l33t FS)
Pete. (l33t FS) GRM+ Memberand MegaDork
10/24/21 11:09 a.m.

I personally do not like the nicop stuff because it is TOO flexible, it sags under its own weight a lot of times.  Makes making nicely routed lines difficult.  This is admittedly more of a problem with 3/16 than anything.  I'm okay with the 3/8 but for smaller stuff I prefer the greenish plastic coated line, it is a nice middle ground between holding its shape and ease of working with.

 

It's great for slapdash "connect this end to that end and shrug in the middle" quickie line replacement, but i have high standards sometimes smiley

Curtis73 (Forum Supporter)
Curtis73 (Forum Supporter) GRM+ Memberand MegaDork
10/26/21 1:28 p.m.
1988RedT2 said:

In reply to bgkast :

I didn't want to run braided flexible line the whole way, but maybe that's the way to go?

Some people do, but I advise against it.  Not only is it expensive, but it's not the right application.  Too much risk of a clamp coming undone and having a sagging line ready to be crushed, ripped, etc.

The secret for hard-t0-soft and vice versa is AN fittings.  Problem is, they are picky about what hose they fit on.  60 psi can do a barb or bubble, but it does have the risk of blowing off.

There are zillions of AN fittings out there.  Some will require a 37 degree flaring tool, others are complete units that use a compression-type fitting on the hard line.  Soft line you might have to get the proprietary hose to fit the AN, but you only need about 6' of it; 3 ft for tank to hard line and 3 ft to go from the hard line to the engine.

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