Garage floor coating: Epoxy vs Polyurea base coat with polyaspartic top coat

I've got a 1600 square foot shop in Texas that is going up, and I've been doing lots and lots of reading on floor coatings. I'm going to pay a pro to coat the floor; I don't feel confident in my ability to coat it and have it last: buy once, cry once. Garage use will be automotive work, but not much metal fab (I can't fab), so limited amounts of welding and/or grinding. Concrete is brand new, so no crack repair is needed and no stains have to be removed. 

I definitely want a polyaspartic top coat, but I've gotten quotes from two contractors that use different products:

Garage Experts Franchise

• 97% solids epoxy base
• vinyl chips
• polyaspartic top coat
• lifetime warranty against peeling/discoloration

Penntek Coatings Franchise

• Polyurea base
• vinyl chips
• polyaspartic top coat
• 15 year peeling warranty
• lifetime UV discoloration warranty

The quotes are fairly similar, but I'm not sure if one product is better than the other. The Garage Experts franchise has done a floor of a car buddy that I know and trust, and he has nothing but great things to say about it.  I'm have trouble separating marketing hype vs actual product performance on the polyurea.  Some sources claim it's the greatest coating ever, other claims it doesn't stick as well to concrete as epoxy.

Is there any compelling reason to go with one over product over the other?  I have a similar discussion going on GarageJournal, just trying to reach as many people as possible.

I had a polyaspartic quote for my shop, and when I came to, I said "no."  I know it's like the be-all/end-all coating, but the guy said it didn't stand up well to welding, but I DO welding, and there isn't a "welding place" I can keep it to.

I went polished concrete, which was about the price of cheap carpet.

If I was doing a "storage/detailing" garage, and could afford it, I would go polyaspartic.

Epoxies tend to "build" more, which gives a thicker coating. Polyureas are really thin. So for that reason, I'd lean towards the quote using the epoxy as the base vs the one using Polyurea as the base, but that's just my novice level gut reaction.

I did my own floor with a two part epoxy primer and a single stage polyurea on top (ended up having enough to do 3 coats of color and 3 coats of clear). The polyurea guys that I bought my product from suggested that method, rather than applying the Polyurea directly to the concrete for what it's worth.

You're putting a lot of brain power into something you're going to spill brake fluid on.

Put a dye into the top layer of concrete, seal it and call it a day. Our shop floor at work was done this way and it's held up for about 15 years now.

SkinnyG (Forum Supporter) said:

I had a polyaspartic quote for my shop, and when I came to, I said "no."  I know it's like the be-all/end-all coating, but the guy said it didn't stand up well to welding, but I DO welding, and there isn't a "welding place" I can keep it to.

I went polished concrete, which was about the price of cheap carpet.

If I was doing a "storage/detailing" garage, and could afford it, I would go polyaspartic.

This is not a storage/detailing garage, but as I staded in my post, it's not a fab shop full of lots of welding and grinding.  I currently don't even own a welder.

STM317 said:

Epoxies tend to "build" more, which gives a thicker coating. Polyureas are really thin. So for that reason, I'd lean towards the quote using the epoxy as the base vs the one using Polyurea as the base, but that's just my novice level gut reaction.

I did my own floor with a two part epoxy primer and a single stage polyurea on top (ended up having enough to do 3 coats of color and 3 coats of clear). The polyurea guys that I bought my product from suggested that method, rather than applying the Polyurea directly to the concrete for what it's worth.

 

I have heard the epoxy goes on thicker, but I don't 'need' the build up per se, as it's a brand new, level floor.  If the poly is tough and more flexible at a thinner coat, that might be better.

ShawnG said:

You're putting a lot of brain power into something you're going to spill brake fluid on.

Put a dye into the top layer of concrete, seal it and call it a day. Our shop floor at work was done this way and it's held up for about 15 years now.

Yeah, I'm putting a ton of brain power into it, as I only want to do this once.  I don't want to have to pull everything out of the shop to redo the floor anytime soon.  I don't care so much about how it looks, but I want it to not stain when my E36 M3boxes leak oil onto it. My fear with the sealers was they wouldn't last and would have to be reapplied at some point.

In reply to Mojaverider :

My garage floor was epoxy coated before I bought the house. It appears to have been a quick reno to flip the house.

First time we had a really heavy rainstorm and there was some standing water in the garage for a few days, the epoxy coating started to peel.

I don't know if it was poor quality coating or poor quality work but I wouldn't bother to have it redone if that's what happens.

Ours at work doesn't stain and the cars have leaked just about everything onto it.

This guy did his research:

https://grassrootsmotorsports.com/forum/build-projects-and-project-cars/girths-garage-of-garbage-another-garage-build-thre/178478/page1/

Might be worth the read.

preach (fs) said:

This guy did his research:

https://grassrootsmotorsports.com/forum/build-projects-and-project-cars/girths-garage-of-garbage-another-garage-build-thre/178478/page1/

Might be worth the read.

 

Thanks! I read through his thread, and he didn't seem to put any sort of sealer or top coat on it, which seems odd. All the products I'm looking at are grinding/base/vinyl chips/clear top coat.  I'm definitely hiring a pro to grind/install mine: that rant about DIY grinding sounds awful.

I watched the guy grind my floor; I wouldn't want to do it either.

DIY grinding is fool's folley. 
 

When I hire companies to do a professional floor grind, they show up with 20 man crews and $500,000 worth of equipment in a convoy of trucks. 
 

That can't be replicated by DIYers.

Mojaverider said:

STM317 said:

Epoxies tend to "build" more, which gives a thicker coating. Polyureas are really thin. So for that reason, I'd lean towards the quote using the epoxy as the base vs the one using Polyurea as the base, but that's just my novice level gut reaction.

I did my own floor with a two part epoxy primer and a single stage polyurea on top (ended up having enough to do 3 coats of color and 3 coats of clear). The polyurea guys that I bought my product from suggested that method, rather than applying the Polyurea directly to the concrete for what it's worth.

 

I have heard the epoxy goes on thicker, but I don't 'need' the build up per se, as it's a brand new, level floor.  If the poly is tough and more flexible at a thinner coat, that might be better.

Yes, the thicker coating can hide some flaws, but the bigger advantage of the thicker application in my mind is increased abrasion and impact resistance. But I'm just a guy, not a pro.

I used a pro-level high solids epoxy on my garage floor, with an acid etch.  I spent over $600 on the epoxy alone for half a 20x20 garage. 

It been about seven years and it's held up well, the only thing that discolors is it brake fluid, but no chemical damage.  There been no peeling, but there's been small damage from welding spatter and heavy impacts.  

Whatever you do, choose a light color and avoid the vinyl chips.  Those chips are camouflage for anything you drop.  It's so much easier finding things against a constant color background.

 //unpopular opinion// Concrete garage floors are supposed to be grey and dusty, because the first time you chip your expensive coating with a dropped steering knuckle, you will see it forever...  Grey and dusty, the floor still has a chunk out of it, but you can't see it.

Honsch said:

I used a pro-level high solids epoxy on my garage floor, with an acid etch.  I spent over $600 on the epoxy alone for half a 20x20 garage. 

It been about seven years and it's held up well, the only thing that discolors is it brake fluid, but no chemical damage.  There been no peeling, but there's been small damage from welding spatter and heavy impacts.  

Whatever you do, choose a light color and avoid the vinyl chips.  Those chips are camouflage for anything you drop.  It's so much easier finding things against a constant color background.

 

I am going with a light gray floor with light gray chips, with the goal of reflecting lots of light and making dropped bolts easier to find.  

Streetwiseguy said:

 //unpopular opinion// Concrete garage floors are supposed to be grey and dusty, because the first time you chip your expensive coating with a dropped steering knuckle, you will see it forever...  Grey and dusty, the floor still has a chunk out of it, but you can't see it.

It's not the gray and dusty part that bothers me, it's the oil stains.  Once concrete is oil stained, you get filthy every time you lay on it after.  I don't care if it's a show garage look: I want to be able to clean up oil spills.

Put in a lift = no more lying on oil stains. 

Mojaverider said:

Streetwiseguy said:

 //unpopular opinion// Concrete garage floors are supposed to be grey and dusty, because the first time you chip your expensive coating with a dropped steering knuckle, you will see it forever...  Grey and dusty, the floor still has a chunk out of it, but you can't see it.

It's not the gray and dusty part that bothers me, it's the oil stains.  Once concrete is oil stained, you get filthy every time you lay on it after.  I don't care if it's a show garage look: I want to be able to clean up oil spills.

Powdered laundry detergent.  Sprinkle on stain, let sit for a while, sweep up.

Plus, you don't want to lay on a concrete floor.  That way lies arthritis and stiff necks.  Cardboard or chunks of used carpeting from the dumpster behind the local flooring store is the answer.

ShawnG said:

Put in a lift = no more lying on oil stains. 

I'm measuring for a 2 post and a 4 post, trying to figure out the best layout for them.  But  I stil don't want be working in oil stains on motorcycles, ATVs, etc.

Streetwiseguy said:

Mojaverider said:

Streetwiseguy said:

 //unpopular opinion// Concrete garage floors are supposed to be grey and dusty, because the first time you chip your expensive coating with a dropped steering knuckle, you will see it forever...  Grey and dusty, the floor still has a chunk out of it, but you can't see it.

It's not the gray and dusty part that bothers me, it's the oil stains.  Once concrete is oil stained, you get filthy every time you lay on it after.  I don't care if it's a show garage look: I want to be able to clean up oil spills.

Powdered laundry detergent.  Sprinkle on stain, let sit for a while, sweep up.

Plus, you don't want to lay on a concrete floor.  That way lies arthritis and stiff necks.  Cardboard or chunks of used carpeting from the dumpster behind the local flooring store is the answer.

I've played that game, and I'm not playing it anymore. 

I appreciate all the advice, but a floor coating is happening.  I've spent too much money to get to this point to cheap out on the floor.

Have you considered tile?

A couple of the big dealers around here have tile in their service departments. Nothing soaks in, easy cleanup with a mop.

Drop something, replace one tile instead of figuring out how to patch a coating.

ShawnG said:

Have you considered tile?

A couple of the big dealers around here have tile in their service departments. Nothing soaks in, easy cleanup with a mop.

Drop something, replace one tile instead of figuring out how to patch a coating.

I haven't given tile serious consideration for 2 reasons:

• Damage from jacks/jackstands
• Worried about oil going through the tiles on a big spill, which would be a hell of a mess to clean up.

Mojaverider said:

preach (fs) said:

This guy did his research:

https://grassrootsmotorsports.com/forum/build-projects-and-project-cars/girths-garage-of-garbage-another-garage-build-thre/178478/page1/

Might be worth the read.

 

Thanks! I read through his thread, and he didn't seem to put any sort of sealer or top coat on it, which seems odd. All the products I'm looking at are grinding/base/vinyl chips/clear top coat.  I'm definitely hiring a pro to grind/install mine: that rant about DIY grinding sounds awful.

That's because Urethane needs no top coat, and I've got a couple down. At least, I *think* I didn't need one.

Hi, by the way! Can't help you too much with these, but I can tell you from thee company I bought mine from that epoxy won't protect from oil spills; it'll just go through. Only waxes and urethane actually repel petrolates.

GIRTHQUAKE said:

Mojaverider said:

preach (fs) said:

This guy did his research:

https://grassrootsmotorsports.com/forum/build-projects-and-project-cars/girths-garage-of-garbage-another-garage-build-thre/178478/page1/

Might be worth the read.

 

Thanks! I read through his thread, and he didn't seem to put any sort of sealer or top coat on it, which seems odd. All the products I'm looking at are grinding/base/vinyl chips/clear top coat.  I'm definitely hiring a pro to grind/install mine: that rant about DIY grinding sounds awful.

That's because Urethane needs no top coat, and I've got a couple down. At least, I *think* I didn't need one.

Hi, by the way! Can't help you too much with these, but I can tell you from thee company I bought mine from that epoxy won't protect from oil spills; it'll just go through. Only waxes and urethane actually repel petrolates.

 

The products I'm looking at are either an epoxy or poly base with a polyurethane top coat that is supposed to stop oil and other fluids from penetrating the concrete.  Impressive job on your own garage, you're a better man than I am haha.