Anybody had any experience with these units?
I am seriously considering one for ClifFord to aid the hwy towing and mpg, after all it is a econo cruiser
I've been talking with them about becoming a dealer/installer for them. Haven't signed up yet, but its in the works.
The OD is .78. Not a huge drop compared to some of the late model OD transmissions, but still a nice drop.
They were originally developed for RV and truck use, and have had crazy amounts of HP and torque thrown through them. I don't see why it wouldn't be helpful for ClifFord. What trans is in there now?
It is a manual, but I haven't identified it yet, I think it is an Eaton.
Just got the oil leak fixed so maybe I can clean it up enough to reveal the tag
I have a trip to PA coming up, hint, hint
Get me some details on the truck and I'll see what I can do.
Going to be stopping by Wheel's place while in PA?
Rob_Mopar wrote: Get me some details on the truck and I'll see what I can do. Going to be stopping by Wheel's place while in PA?
Yepper, just checked and you are an hour away?
How big is the job for this install?
I'm probably more like 90 minutes from Wheels' place.
I'll do some homework on your truck and check with them. That might be one of the transmissions that will require a divorced installation using a separate crossmember to hold the GV unit with a small drive shaft going from the trans to it, and another shaft from the GV to the rear.
I'm calling it a night. I'll let you know what I find.
The gear vendors piece is an updated, larger Laycock overdrive unit, as used in several million Volvos and various English trash through the years. I'm pretty sure those big bull low gear boxes came later with overdrive 5th on top, so it might be easier to do this junkyard style.
Streetwiseguy wrote: The gear vendors piece is an updated, larger Laycock overdrive unit, as used in several million Volvos and various English trash through the years. I'm pretty sure those big bull low gear boxes came later with overdrive 5th on top, so it might be easier to do this junkyard style.
I'd look into this first.
What kind of MPG are you getting now? How much do you think you'll use the beast? I'm wondering since I know the GV units typically cost a couple of $K plus install. Granted, if you're getting single-digit MPG, then a 1-2 MPG improvement could be quite a percentage increase and worth the expense.
Ian F wrote: What kind of MPG are you getting now? How much do you think you'll use the beast? I'm wondering since I know the GV units typically cost a couple of $K plus install. Granted, if you're getting single-digit MPG, then a 1-2 MPG improvement could be quite a percentage increase and worth the expense.
Now I have a clutch I have to re-establish my mpg. The clutch was really bad, I was getting around 9 to 10.
I was looking at one of these but one thing turned me off. If you go down a hill and try to engine brake with the GV unit in overdrive, it will burn up, and quickly from what I understand. So every time you coast down a hill, you need to remember to go back to direct. Seemed like it may not always be the easiest thing to do.
btp76 wrote: For that truck I'd look into either a Ranger on "Brownie" overdrive.
Brownie is the answer because a second shifter would make the truck even cooler.
I would think the 3.5 rear you swapped in and tires that huge would get you pretty good revs at 65mph, well under 3k in direct.
I am watching this with hopeful eyes.......as I am against reaxleing my IH, and I have failed to find a source for a more usable rear end gear. I'll need something in the low 3.xx range to make any sense. Otherwise I'll have to look at swapping my 2 sp reduction for an overdrive and hope it can handle signifigantly more power.
Aussie, I just got off the phone with my GV rep. Doesn't look like they have anything that will work in the F700. Sorry.
doc_speeder wrote: I was looking at one of these but one thing turned me off. If you go down a hill and try to engine brake with the GV unit in overdrive, it will burn up, and quickly from what I understand. So every time you coast down a hill, you need to remember to go back to direct. Seemed like it may not always be the easiest thing to do.
Doc, I talked to my rep about this as well. This was a problem about 10 years ago. It was a problem with 20K plus pound vehicles with an exhaust brake. That combo would kill the internal clutch pack. They have improved the springs holding the clutch pack, but still recommend running direct (no OD) if using the exhaust brake.
He also mentioned they have several racers using them in road racing configurations just fine with clutchless downshifting in OD.
I personally installed and used one in a 66 Bonneville with a Caddy 500. Worked like a charm, took 560 torks while towing some pretty heavy stuff, but I didn't have it long enough to really abuse it though.
aussiesmg wrote: Now I have a clutch I have to re-establish my mpg. The clutch was really bad, I was getting around 9 to 10.
That high? I would have expected less. My '78 F-150 4x4 would get 10 mpg on the hwy and others with similar trucks said that was good.
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