Is there a better or worse pegboard out there? Or an alternative? I'm going to hang some tools that are frequently used and am not sure what the best way to go about it is.
Is there a better or worse pegboard out there? Or an alternative? I'm going to hang some tools that are frequently used and am not sure what the best way to go about it is.
Perhaps look into a french cleat system:
http://www.thewoodwhisperer.com/videos/french-cleat-storage-system/
I have some pegboard that is punched from steel, The apes here haven't destroyed it yet.
TRoglodyte wrote: I have some pegboard that is punched from steel, The apes here haven't destroyed it yet.
That would be perfect. Where do I get it?
I have gotten both good and bad at Home Depot. The good stuff has larger holes and uses bigger hooks and stuff. I like the white wood stuff vs. the brown. I also have a few of the black plastic pieces and they're pretty good.
I used to hate peg board, but it really does help me keep some of my stuff organized.
OK, I have this interior wall in the garage. The idea is to basically make the whole thing a series of recessed medicine cabinets that hold tools instead of toothbrushes and Preparation H. Mount pegboard to the back, doors to the front and have a whole wall of tool hanging goodness. Anything that would help me in that task is what I'm looking for. 
Googling "steel pegboard" (because I was curious too) unveils a number of options along those lines.
I wouldn't do the pegboard.
If you do it the way you are describing, the back of the "pegs" and misc hardware you hang will be poking through the opposite side. It will be really easy to bump them and have stuff falling off continually.
Use plywood Then use nails, screws, or blocks of wood to hang stuff on. Then you can hang stuff on both sides.
The reality of pegboard is that once it's up, people don't really move the pegs and hooks around that much. It's not that hard to move nails.
I gave up on pegboard decades ago. It really pissed me off every time I tried to hang something, I would shake it a little and everything would fall off the opposite end.
I have plywood walls. I can hang ANYTHING on it. I trace outline of tools, etc.
I've always liked pegboard- would like to give the steel stuff a shot, but plywood is certainly the cheap (flammable) way. I tried to keep most of my garage mostly flameproof from all the welding/grinding crap I get up to.
My pegboard is bolted to a concrete wall. It doesn't get bumped much 
In this case, wouldn't the backside be inside a wall? That's a hassle when you want to put a hanger where there's a stud, but it should keep it clear of bumping.
Not as I am understanding it.
He's going to put the pegboard on the "back" side, so the studs create 4" deep "cabinets"- like a medicine chest.
But that means the back of the hooks will be exposed to the stairwell. It will be really easy to knock into them going up the stairs and knock everything off.
It also means you will have no fire separation at all from the garage to the upstairs space. That's not good. If you ever have an issue in the garage, it is going to chase up that stairwell like a chimney.
I guess we'll have to wait for clarification! Agreed, that's not a great way to do it.
I am starting to see the appeal of wall layouts.
Maybe cover the stud wall with slat wall then build cabinet faces. For even more tool hanging space make the cabinets out of slatwall. Then when cabinets are closed it looks like a slat wall covered wall but you have twice the storage.
[URL=http://s240.photobucket.com/user/NOTATA/media/Garage%20and%20shop/MVC-016F.jpg.html]
[/URL]
The idea was to put the pegboard on the back of the studs below the stairs and then eventually put doors on the fronts. This would give me a bunch of shallow locking cabinets. Hitting the hangers from the back is a potential issue, but one that I can probably either solve or ignore. 
Plywood with French cleats is another possibility. I probably need to come up with the best three ideas and do one pocket of each and see what's the most useful.
I put pegboard all over the interior of a garage recently. Best thing I did was to buy pegs that screwed into it. My prior objection to pegboard was the fact that the pegs would move and fall out any time you touched or breathed on them. The ones with screws fixed that.
I have the black plastic pegboard, mounted directly onto concrete block with tapcons. It is clean and solid, never moves.
I would like to find a source of better pegs, perhaps that "click" in place and don't come out when you grab the tool.
IMO for the money you spend on peg board and then the hooks, it's really not a good value. Between the potential issue of the hooks falling out when bumped or removing whatever is hanging on them, the fact you can't place hooks where there are studs, and as picky as it sounds - you can't get exact spacing of the hooks because the holes are at a fixed distance. There's nothing worse than being this -><- close to having something fit, so instead you have to move it over another 1"…oh, but there's a stud there, so now you have a ~3" useless gap on the wall. 
Plywood + hooks please. Get the stuff with a nice finish and give it a coat of white semi-gloss. If you put too many holes in it trying to get everything positioned, just go over it with another coat of semi-gloss. The paint should fill the holes pretty well.
If you end up using wood, there is 1/8" and 1/4'. Use the 1/4".
mazdeuce wrote: The idea was to put the pegboard on the back of the studs below the stairs and then eventually put doors on the fronts. This would give me a bunch of shallow locking cabinets. Hitting the hangers from the back is a potential issue, but one that I can probably either solve or ignore.
What you could do while the wall is open:
You could be a garage journal hero!
Option #1- use plywood, and thank me now.
Option #2- use pegboard, rip it out within a year, replace it with plywood, and thank me later.
I've built a lot of workshops. The first one was 40 years ago. It had pegboard.
You still need to address the fire separation question. Assuming that garage is attached to your house, it's not legal the way you are doing it.
It's not attached to the house. No building codes. I couldn't make it illegal without installing a meth lab.
You guys have me imagining cabinets that are the equivalent of china cabinets for tools. Not that it's a bad thing, but I could certainly go overboard here. I might.
mazdeuce wrote: I couldn't make it illegal without installing a meth lab.
As long as it is modular and hangs on a french cleat I can't see an issue.
In reply to mazdeuce:
Great.
My suggestion would be to remove every other stud (so you could have some bigger spaces), then put 5/8" or 3/4" ply on the back (so it would be strong enough to hang virtually anything.
THEN, I'd add slatwall (or high quality pegboard like the metal stuff) to only a couple of the bays. Try it, and see what you like.
Then add more slatwall (or don't) as you see fit.
You'll need to log in to post.
