I bought the Sony amp listed there (first purchase on Mercari, $125 shipped) and the C note speakers (digital coupon, $10 off), now to decide between some of those used + cartridge, the U-turn custom with MDF platter at $314 (because US made speaks to me and I like the look), the AT walnut deal, or the Fluance RT82 at $300 (or $350 in the finish I like).
tuna55 said:(or $350 in the finish I like).
If it is going to be out and "on display", you'll want to go for the finish you like. Otherwise, every time you look at it you'll think about every stupid thing you've wasted $50 on, $50 that could have been used for the upgrade instead.
If it is going to be in a cabinet or in a place where it isn't regularly in your line of site, then it won't be worth it.
This U-turn has the cue arm and acrylic platter, correct? Made in US, this may be the winner. https://www.ebay.com/itm/275020400440?hash=item40087e4738:g:2JwAAOSwCAZhgF~x
Couple of tips on the C-note construction- I hope you bought some binding posts and some adhesive backed acoustic damping foam to round out the build. They omit those to bring it in at the "C-note" price. Instead of the adhesive backed damping foam, you could substitute some poly fill or wool batts to damp resonances and acoustic reflections inside the cabinet. This should just line/cover the internal sides and back- don't "stuff" the speaker. Don't use fiberglass, it was commonly used back in the day but is just nasty to work with. You'll also need to supply some wire to make the connections between the crossover, the binding posts and the woofer & tweeter. IMO, 14 or 16 gauge zip cord or pretty much anything will work fine, I'm not a big believer in audiophile cables. I suggest building the crossover network on a small piece of masonite or 1/4" plywood. You can then screw or glue it to the cabinet, it's much less awkward to assemble it outside of the cabinet than try an build it in situ. Make sure that you have the drivers phased correctly i.e. the positive tweeter output terminal of the crossover goes to the positive terminal of the tweeter. Do pay attention to the specified length of the adjustable port- adjust it to what they say in the manual and then glue it to lock it down.
I think a lot of thought/research went into the design of these and if you do a "by the book" build you'll most likely be very happy with the results.
flat4_5spd said:Couple of tips on the C-note construction- I hope you bought some binding posts and some adhesive backed acoustic damping foam to round out the build. They omit those to bring it in at the "C-note" price. Instead of the adhesive backed damping foam, you could substitute some poly fill or wool batts to damp resonances and acoustic reflections inside the cabinet. This should just line/cover the internal sides and back- don't "stuff" the speaker. Don't use fiberglass, it was commonly used back in the day but is just nasty to work with. You'll also need to supply some wire to make the connections between the crossover, the binding posts and the woofer & tweeter. IMO, 14 or 16 gauge zip cord or pretty much anything will work fine, I'm not a big believer in audiophile cables. I suggest building the crossover network on a small piece of masonite or 1/4" plywood. You can then screw or glue it to the cabinet, it's much less awkward to assemble it outside of the cabinet than try an build it in situ. Make sure that you have the drivers phased correctly i.e. the positive tweeter output terminal of the crossover goes to the positive terminal of the tweeter. Do pay attention to the specified length of the adjustable port- adjust it to what they say in the manual and then glue it to lock it down.
I think a lot of thought/research went into the design of these and if you do a "by the book" build you'll most likely be very happy with the results.
I thought I saw binding posts on the list, so I did not buy them. I also didn't buy foam but I have a plan for that.
Well that sold, one of you buy it?
In reply to tuna55 :
Looks like they now are including binding posts, the internal wire for the speaker and screws to mount the drivers. That wasn't the case when I bought mine a year or two ago. My apologies for the outdated info!
flat4_5spd said:In reply to tuna55 :
Looks like they now are including binding posts, the internal wire for the speaker and screws to mount the drivers. That wasn't the case when I bought mine a year or two ago. My apologies for the outdated info!
No need to apologize! I was glad that you mentioned those things so I could look for them. I did see them in the description so I was satisfied. I thank you for your input.
tuna55 said:... or the Fluance RT82 at $300 (or $350 in the finish I like).
Which finish is that? The bamboo?
Amazon is adding a $50 premium, but all the finishes are $300 through the Fluance website. Looks like the do free ground shipping too: https://www.fluance.com/rt82b-reference-high-fidelity-vinyl-turntable-bamboo
In reply to Beer Baron :
Thanks!
Now between the three I'm not sure
In reply to tuna55 :
Buy once, cry once. None of those choices are wrong. Pick the one that speaks to you the most.
Did the amp you got come with a phono stage?
You seem ambivalent about the idea of vintage with a new cartridge. That option seems to just be about a voice in your head telling you that you're "supposed" to look for the most budget option. But if you'd be settling unnecessarily, don't.
So it seems like it's really between the U-Turn and the Fluance. Both are good choices.
Which options did you spec the Orbit at to come out to $319?
I would favor the Fluance. You seemed to really like the bamboo finish enough to be worth dropping more than a lower-spec U-Turn, but now you can have that cheaper than the U-Turn.
Or damn the torpedoes and spend $475 on a Rega Planar 1 : https://www.rega.co.uk/products/planar-1
My understanding is that that amp does include a preamp. The configuration I chose was black with a cue arm and the basic platter but with the Graco black 3 cartridge, because I'm a sucker for US made and it sounded neat. Honestly the black doesn't look as good as the bamboo or even the walnut fluance, but made and signed in the US is pretty neat. I'm also not sure if that cartridge is any better than the fluance. You're absolutely right about the vintage stuff, you read me well. I appreciate your comments here.
In reply to tuna55 :
[Edited to be more concise] The Grado Black 3 and the Ortofon OM10 (used on the Fluance) look like they're about on par. Both seem to get better reviews than the Ortofon OM5e or 2M red (which are options on the U-Turn). It sounds like the Grado may be a bit warmer and the OM10 a bit brighter.
The one point that might matter to you, is that the Ortofon gets noted for better tracking. This can mean a cleaner playback on rougher vinyl, if you are going to be getting a significant number of used records from your dad going to estate sales.
You seem to keep coming back to the U-Turn though...
What is going to make you happier after 6 months of ownership? That it's American made and signed? Or that you customized the plinth with exactly the finish you most preferred?
I asked tuna kid and tuna wife and American made meant a lot to then as well. I spent extra to get the light maple as well, so the total was 414. We'll see!!
I really appreciate your help, as well as everyone else. This was really fun.
In reply to flat4_5spd :
I built a few sets of home brew loudspeaker cabinets back in the 90's. Every single one of them was damped with fiberglass. It was free.
And last Tuesday, I actually stopped itching!
In reply to tuna55 :
Nice! Welcome to the hobby! You'll have fun collecting records.
Some basic tips for vinyl:
It is obligatory that, at some point, you acquire a used copy of Herb Alpert's "Whipped Cream and Other Delights".
My meager thoughts from a few decades of watching from the sidelines of the audiophile world.
- A good music system does not necessarily make for a good A/V system and vice-versa. In a perfect world, I'll have the two systems completely separate.
- Building a system on a budget, start with speakers and work your way back. Good speakers will make more of a difference to your ears than a good amp/receiver.
- Cables. Good cables are important. Plan on spending more than you'll consider reasonable on cables. Especially the speaker cables. Apparently, real audiophile nuts can even tell if the L and R cable lengths are different. I can't see myself ever at that level (too many years of standing in front of a 100W 4x12 tube amp), but it makes sense to me from an engineering POV - different cable lengths will have slightly different impedance levels.
In reply to Ian F (Forum Supporter) :
I disagree about the cables. Cables matter... some. But you're generally talking minor differences and generally one of the worst places to get value/$. Get decent cables, not the cheapest crap. Be sure they're not damaged. After that, not worth worrying about until other more critical things are dialed in.
It's like... chassis bracing and stiffness matters. But unless your frame is rusty and bending, you should focus on tires, brakes, suspension, and alignment first.
A lot of audiophiles like to imagine they're hearing things they can't. Saying you can hear the difference in length of speaker cable left to right is like saying you can feel the difference in braking pressure because the lines are longer to one side of the car.
I ha 've noticed, if one speaker wire run is significantly longer than the other, that speaker will play a bit quieter than the other. Which makes sense.
I believe they didn't send the correct item for binding posts, and my layout stinks, but here it is for now.
Tunakid 4 applying the Tung oil to the new speaker shelves.
Fine, I will talk about the music.
Crate digging is fun. Cool old rare stuff is neat and exciting to find. Local record stores are awesome.
I am just here to suggest going on to bandcamp and buying albums directly from the artists, especially on the once a month "bandcamp friday" where they waive their fees and the full purchase price goes to the artist.
Trent said:Fine, I will talk about the music.
Crate digging is fun. Cool old rare stuff is neat and exciting to find. Local record stores are awesome.
I am just here to suggest going on to bandcamp and buying albums directly from the artists, especially on the once a month "bandcamp friday" where they waive their fees and the full purchase price goes to the artist.
What's bandcamp?
In reply to tuna55 :
Website that sells music.
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