I'll start this by saying I'm a wiring novice. I did install the wiring and a 220v breaker, so I have some experience.
What is going on is my 7500 watt Comfortzone Heater that I use in the garage is acting up. It has a built-in dial thermostat that isn't reading correctly so instead of getting the garage up to 70-degrees like it used to, it now shuts off way too early and the garage is still cold. I've read that you can wire in a baseboard (4-pole) thermostat, but I'm just not sure how to properly wire it to this heater.
Anyone have any insight? See the wiring diagram below:
Picture of the front of the heater for reference:
And the thermostat I'm thinking I need: Honeywell Home CT410B Manual 4 Wire Premium Baseboard/Line Volt Thermostat CT410B1017 - Programmable Household Thermostats - Amazon.com
Any help is appreciated it, even if it's you telling me not to do this.
Did the factory thermostat ever work properly? If so, why not get a replacement?
Edit after following the link. That’s a 2 pole (meaning it breaks both legs of the 240 V circuit) thermostat and cheap at 17 bucks or so. (Cheap not necessarily being an advantage here) If you want to go this route you’d need to install a wall box and run the power supply wiring through the thermostat. You’d need to bypass the thermostat in the unit or turn it all the way up so that it always call for heat. Note that at least three of the customer reviews I read stated it almost started a fire! Double check what your heater wattage or maximum amperage draw is and compare that to the thermostat rating. The thermostat should be rated to switch at least the maximum amperage your heater draws, preferably more.
Edit to the edit: This is not the droid you seek! The thermostat in the link has a maximum rating of 5,800 watts. Your heater has a maximum setting of 7,500 watts, any thermostat you replace the factory one with has to be rated for at least that. I’d consider replacing the factory thermostat with a new one to be certain.
I just spent a few minutes looking at the factory wiring diagram you posted above, the factory thermostat is wired so the it energizes the coil of a separate contactor to control the heating elements. The contactor is rated for the full amperage (40 amps), the thermostat itself only sees minimal amperage.
To get this to work with a remote thermostat you’d need to run a 240 volt switch loop and wire the new remote thermostat into the wiring connected at the factory thermostat in the unit so that it only powers the contactor coil as the factory one does. You won’t be able to hit the easy button and install a thermostat in the power wiring, a line voltage thermostat capable of switching 40 amps would probably be more than the cost of the entire unit. I’ll stick with my recommendation to replace the factory thermostat with a new one.
In reply to 11GTCS :
Thanks for digging into this. A replacement unit can be had pretty cheap, so I'll probably go that route. Apparently replacement parts aren't available through Compfort Zone.
