In reply to ClearWaterMS :
We've done the roadster thing a few times. We are after a look now, she has grown up at Daytona, Sebring, Summit point, and the hills so we wanna go with cool instead of fast this time. I did almost have her on a Goblin for a minute but she lost interest real quick and keeps going back to the hot rod.
In reply to NOHOME :
Going to look at a 32 on Sunday. Pretty much stock with the exception of a flathead out of another car stuffed in it. Runs, drives, Pretty straight. We will see if this ends up being something we have to have once we see it. My daughter wanted me to tell you that your car is cooler than the other side of the pillow.
In reply to RonnieFnD :
FYI its a pickup.Solid front axle Vette rear suspension. 327 /t5
Stampie said:One thing to consider is how the project car is titled. Is it going to be a home built title with an assigned VIN? Check into how much that will cost for insurance. If it's going with an original title/VIN do you own the engine that it came with? The older cars used the engine number as it's VIN so would suck if someone else owned your engine.
It's always best to buy a car that's already titled, but if not SEMA has information on registering and titling cars in all 50 states. It's a good reference. https://www.semasan.com/resources/everything-you-need-register-and-title-your-hobby-car-all-50-states
This used to be my job. I worked as a fabricator and driveline engineer for an [insert famous name that I won't repeat] shop in L.A.
There is no shame in doing a kit, especially because you don't want your kid losing interest in the minutiae of what fits what. In my line of work, it was a relatively unrespected choice, but we were pretty hardcore purists.
If you get a kit, you can assemble, your kid can learn, and there are easy, step by step instructions to get it done, and a huge amount of pride involved. If you get an actual 1920s car, it's a blank slate... which is great, but it takes some motivation to find parts that suit without just opening up a big wallet and ordering retrofit parts.
Buying a kit is like doing a really nice paint-by-numbers project.
Buying an actual 1920s car is like buying paint, a canvas, an easel, brushes, and diving in and painting a landscape. Without a little guidance and help, your results might be frustrating.
The last rod I built was a 29 Model A. We had the frame and cab. We fabbed a stake bed. The rest was literally spare parts laying around the shop; a steering box from a 50s buick, a steering column from a 66 Thunderbird, a 425 Nailhead with bad ring seal, a TH350, an axle from a Dodge Dakota, and front brakes from a FLAPS that we discovered fit well enough. The brake master was a super common GM metric unit. Lights were stolen from a 65 Impala mounted in some chevy valve covers, and the seats were scavenged from an MCI motorcoach. The thing looked baller and overheated if you tried to go more than about 10 miles, but even with the completely wasted junk parts we were able to turn a $15k profit on it. That's one thing you likely won't get with a kit... market value appreciation.
Probably not much of a girl's car, but the boys would love it... I always wanted to build a Ford track roadster from a Speedway Motors kit with lots of steel reinforcing and a roll bar similar to a Lotus 7. But, without fenders, it probably wouldn't be any fun having kicked up junk rain down on your head all day long. Speedway Motors.com: Deluxe 1927 T-Bucket Frame Kit w/ Standard Body, No Floor.
It would pretty quickly morph into this after a short while though. car-from-uk.com: 23 FORD T TRACK ROADSTER WOODY PICKUP RACE ROD HOT ROD SPECIAL CONSTRUCTION
In reply to RonnieFnD :
Have you ever owned a car without a roof? It becomes a different level of commitment. You MUST have room to keep the car indoors so as to keep it out of the wet. You must be confident of your ability to travel with the car by keeping it dry at overnight accommodations.
John Welsh said:In reply to RonnieFnD :
Have you ever owned a car without a roof? It becomes a different level of commitment. You MUST have room to keep the car indoors so as to keep it out of the wet. You must be confident of your ability to travel with the car by keeping it dry at overnight accommodations.
I did a lot of driving in a topless mgb with a tonneau cover. I think we want a roof because convertible and Florida don't always mix. Being stick in traffic will make you beg for the sweet release of death lol.
Curtis73 (Forum Supporter) said:This used to be my job. I worked as a fabricator and driveline engineer for an [insert famous name that I won't repeat] shop in L.A.
There is no shame in doing a kit, especially because you don't want your kid losing interest in the minutiae of what fits what. In my line of work, it was a relatively unrespected choice, but we were pretty hardcore purists.
If you get a kit, you can assemble, your kid can learn, and there are easy, step by step instructions to get it done, and a huge amount of pride involved. If you get an actual 1920s car, it's a blank slate... which is great, but it takes some motivation to find parts that suit without just opening up a big wallet and ordering retrofit parts.
Buying a kit is like doing a really nice paint-by-numbers project.
Buying an actual 1920s car is like buying paint, a canvas, an easel, brushes, and diving in and painting a landscape. Without a little guidance and help, your results might be frustrating.The last rod I built was a 29 Model A. We had the frame and cab. We fabbed a stake bed. The rest was literally spare parts laying around the shop; a steering box from a 50s buick, a steering column from a 66 Thunderbird, a 425 Nailhead with bad ring seal, a TH350, an axle from a Dodge Dakota, and front brakes from a FLAPS that we discovered fit well enough. The brake master was a super common GM metric unit. Lights were stolen from a 65 Impala mounted in some chevy valve covers, and the seats were scavenged from an MCI motorcoach. The thing looked baller and overheated if you tried to go more than about 10 miles, but even with the completely wasted junk parts we were able to turn a $15k profit on it. That's one thing you likely won't get with a kit... market value appreciation.
This makes perfect sense and actually explains a lot about you lol. You seem to just be able to make anything out of anything, you must have made some really awesome cars.
So we went and looked at a ford. Nice car but the guy was undercover dealer posing as a private sale and wanted doc fees, tax, tag, title, etc so I walked. I showed up with a trailer and cash but m not paying a extra $2500 for a car in going to trailer home and take a Sawzall to.
In reply to RonnieFnD :
Wow, that's lame. Be patient. The right car will find you.
In reply to Dusterbd13-michael :
Holy E36 M3!!!
Dusterbd13-michael said:https://www.facebook.com/share/WvygiTQyZbMjnfNo/?mibextid=kL3p88
May i suggest this?
That thing is awesome, someone on here needs to buy that.
OK......how about a fiberglass VW pan dune buggy ?
Simple , cheap parts and lots of projects on FB
RonnieFnD said:This makes perfect sense and actually explains a lot about you lol. You seem to just be able to make anything out of anything, you must have made some really awesome cars.
Thank you. A big part of it was a 6000sf shop with every kind of fab equipment you could imagine and two co-workers who taught me a lot.
Here are some pics from one of the shops where I worked. Shop Tour | Sakowski Motors
Holy Hell, its a Riviera! That makes me feel funny. I've only ever felt that before when climbing up a rope.
In reply to John Welsh :
RonnieFnD said:Dusterbd13-michael said:https://www.facebook.com/share/WvygiTQyZbMjnfNo/?mibextid=kL3p88
May i suggest this?
That thing is awesome, someone on here needs to buy that.
Hopefully that was a rusted out shell of a Riviera that was dropped onto a late model chassis.
1936 Buick could have potential, if it was closer.
Sharing for inspiration only, since it's pricey for something that will be cut apart and 1200 miles from you. Plus you'd need four sets of 2 barrel carbs for the inline engine
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