How do I remove this metal pin?

I have a very large stand mixer, a Hobart D300T. It fell over last fall during a move, and broke the handle.

The handle is held in place to its supporting assembly by a cylindrical metal pin. I have tried banging it out, but it won't budge. I have sprayed WD40 into the hole daily for a few days, but it doesn't seem to help. This seems like it should be so simple; am I missing something obvious? I would prefer not to drill it out if possible.

To see it in context of the mixer itself, it is item #18 on page 12 of the following parts manual:

Link to PDF

If you can't drive it out with a punch, then it's drill time. Do it in steps. Eventually, you will get to where there is just a thin shell of the roll pin left and that will come out pretty easy with pliers or a punch.

Yes, you need a precisely-sized punch. I bet HF sells a set of 127 punches for $4.99. You're bound to find the right size somewhere in there.

For reference, that's called a "roll pin" and it's made of spring steel.

And the tools you need are called pin punches

might try a straight pin bit on your air hammer, i have had quite amazing results with that. the harmonics of the rapid hammer break everything up, then pounding it out (LOL) is easier.

-J0N

I'll give the pin punches a shot; otherwise, I will drill them out. My tools are pretty limited and 95% metric. Air tools are not something I want to get into yet; that is yet another slippery slope.

Any chance of tapping a thread I to it, putting a screw/bolt in then using a pry bar or claw hammer to pull it out?

Punch. Proper sized, like mentioned above. Getting a drill bit into that almost assuredly will break the bit.

foxtrapper wrote: Punch. Proper sized, like mentioned above. Getting a drill bit into that almost assuredly will break the bit.

This.

Roll pins are usually spring steel and almost impossible to drill.

If you can't get the pin out, you can grind away the handle where the pin is. Handle looks like cast iron so once it's ground down it will break pretty easy. Once the handle is out of the way, then you only have to deal with the pin thats still in the shaft.

Exact size is the key here, If you don't have a punch try a bolt or get another roll pin exactly that size, hammer halfway out , use vice grips and pull. Hardware store should have one for less than a buck.

I wonder if this might help?

Follow the wise advise above. Use a punch.

Roll pins are hard spring steel and sometimes tapered to make them easier to start when inserting them. Meaning... often easier to drive one way than the other but they will be easier to drive than drill either way. Correct size punch, clean hammer strike and you will be done.

Support the back side as well. If you are just tapping with a punch, it will bounce instead of transferring any real force.

I deal with roll-pins every day. Do not try to drill it out! You will beak a drill bit and make things worse.

As mentioned, you need a properly sized roll pin punch. Since you have some time to plan this out, soak the pin with your favorite penetrating oil in advance. If possible, put it in a vise to hold it steady. Then go after it with the punch and a BFH. If that doesn't get it, (but really it should), the smoke wrench can help too. Hopefully they didn't put lock tight on it, that would be the only reason that you would need heat.

Loctite on a roll pin is just plain evil.

tr8todd wrote: If you can't get the pin out, you can grind away the handle where the pin is. Handle looks like cast iron so once it's ground down it will break pretty easy. Once the handle is out of the way, then you only have to deal with the pin thats still in the shaft.

The pin holds the stainless handle inside of a cast iron bracket thing, which raises and lowers the bowl lift unit.

I really dislike working on this thing. 400 lbs, top-heavy, and in my dining room are not qualities favorable to a pleasant wrenching experience.

You have that in your house? You must be making some bodacious biscuits. Big family?

Have you tried tapping it out from both ends? Sometimes roll pins are in tapered holes.

TRoglodyte wrote: You have that in your house? You must be making some bodacious biscuits. Big family?

I need that to cook for my family, damn

Not quite. It was offered to me for the price of "get it out of the way," and was in pretty rough shape. Only when I went to pick it up did I understand its scale--a few magnitudes above what can realistically be used in a home kitchen.

You guys rock. Using the pin punches above, the pin came out with a few solid whacks, and reinstalling was a breeze. I'm so glad I don't have to track another pin down, or worse, get an OEM unit. The handle cost me a Ben Franklin and a few presidential pals; I'm sure that the pin would be priced to match.

Once the handle was back in place, I could finally put the mixer back together; the first time since last August. Thankfully, it works just like it didn't fall on its head! A damn sturdy machine. It's nice to have an appliance indoors with a motor rated not in watts, but in horsepower.

Back together:

I cobbled together the wooden stand last year, because it is really awkward to move otherwise, and the bare legs are guaranteed to destroy any floor. I really wish I left some more clearance on the sides, but I suppose that I could easily screw in some guides if I was worried about it falling off.

OK, you wife might be falling for it, but I'm not.

You snuck a milling machine into the house and budget and called it a "Mixer".

Well played sir, well played....

Do you have kids? Because that thing looks like it could make some serious play-dough!

Oh, and now "Roll Pins are Spring Steel, may be tapered, and should never be drilled out" is in my mental vault. Thanks guys!