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Ian F
Ian F MegaDork
8/20/13 12:25 p.m.

In reply to SVreX:

I also question how well it would work for a bed made from 4x4s.

I like 2x6's better as you can assemble it in such a way that there are no fancy cut joints and the additional 2" (nominal) of height will resist racking better.

SVreX
SVreX MegaDork
8/20/13 12:30 p.m.

In reply to Ian F:

2x6's assembled as I described would work too

slantvaliant
slantvaliant UltraDork
8/20/13 1:20 p.m.

SVreX
SVreX MegaDork
8/20/13 1:47 p.m.

In reply to slantvaliant:

That is exactly the joint I was describing.

My issue with using the 4x4's like in your pic (instead of the 1x6's or 2x6's I described) is that there is nothing to hold the mattress in place.

Additionally, the 4x4's extend past the edge of the mattress a lot. It's easy to get splinters in your arse getting in and out of the bed.

But it is a good look.

EvanB
EvanB GRM+ Memberand MegaDork
8/20/13 4:58 p.m.

I guess this is technically attaching two 4x2s.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qZDCBVy22W8

oldtin
oldtin PowerDork
8/20/13 5:22 p.m.

welding?

secretariata
secretariata GRM+ Memberand SuperDork
8/20/13 9:16 p.m.

I made a queen size bed frame using 4x4 posts and 2x6 horizontal members 17 years ago using hand tools. Still sleep on it every night. Used 3 posts at the head and foot (one in each corner and one in the middle) and made it long enough so the posts were outside the mattress. Bolted 2x6's (long side vertical for all attached 2x6's) from head to toe on the inside of the corner posts and each side of the center posts slightly more than the depth of a mattress below the top of the posts. Bolted 2x6's around the outside of all 4 sides flush with the top of the posts (keep mattress from sliding off). Bolted 2x6's around the inside so they are about 6 inches above the floor along the head, foot, and one side (left one side open for access to store crap under the bed). Placed 2x6's with short side vertical across the lower 2x6's to support the mattress. These go from one side to the other and fit just inside the upper (mattress holder) 2x6's with about 4-6 inch gap between adjacent mattress supporting boards. Placed 1/2" plywood over the mattress supporting boards and tossed the mattress on top. Cut all the lumber with a circular saw and drilled the holes for the bolts with a corded drill. Used oversized washers under the bolt heads & nuts. Bought a nice wood boring drill bit. Never finished the wood, but it has been disassembled and moved several times and still does the job. It has about 2 feet of clearance beneath the mattress so can be used as additional storage and kitty hideaway during thunderstorms.

wlkelley3
wlkelley3 UltraDork
8/20/13 9:37 p.m.
SVreX wrote:
wlkelley3 wrote: 2X4 slots at the top and edge of the 2 4X4's so they overlap then bolt through the overlap. The corner halving joint below.
That "corner halving" joint is typically called a half lap. It's a good joint, but not easy with a dull hand saw. It also does not account for the 3rd timber member (the head rail) connecting at the same point. The joint is more complex than that.

OK, a half-tee joint then. Isn't projects like this an excuse to acquire more tools? A cheap circular saw w/decent blade can easily handle this. Won't be a one-time use tool as after you have it you'll use it more than the hand saw. The hand saw will become wall art and rusty from lack of use.

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