The thermistor on my 3d printer likes to slip out of its hole. It did this long before the move, but now that I'm doing lots of 12+ hour prints, is becoming a problem.
There's no set screws or anything in the hot end for it, and friction doesn't keep it in. So I feel like I ought to glue it.
Is there an adhesive that can handle 300C degrees AND not change the resistance value of a 100k ohm thermistor?
High heat jb weld, super glue, rtv?
Sounds like you're looking for a potting compound - most of your high temp epoxies will also work too.
Out of my area but I agree with potting adhesive. Try Mouser or Dig-Key for small purchase options.
glueguy (Forum Supporter) said:Out of my area but I agree with potting adhesive. Try Mouser or Dig-Key for small purchase options.
Most misleading username ever.
Pressure sensitive and contact, yes, high temp electronic, cyanoacrylate, no. Never had the pleasure to gain intimate experience.
I've sniffed some but not all of them.
Caswell gas tank sealer.
To quote off their website:
Any thoughts to upgrading the hotend to an E3D or something instead of gluing it in place?
In reply to Mr_Asa :
I actually just ordered another printer. Upon closer inspection and tear down, something pissed it off last night. It knocked the cooling fan nozzle off and buried the hot end into the print. The thermistor was firmly in place still, but feel out earlier this week. I never had issues at this particular Z height before, not sure what could have caused it yet.
I'm going to get a replacement hot end, probably E3D ender v6. At some point. It will require rewriting the firmware on the printer, and I'm too busy and in too much need of printing to deal with that right now. Once I get caught up, I'm going to come back to it.
I bought a Longer LK4. $190, it will be here Thursday. Similar print size, metal frame, Bowden extruder I believe, nice looking touch screen.
I almost impulse bought the Longer Orange 10, as it's a very well reviewed SLA printer for similar money, but I have 8 rolls of PLA and a kilo of ABS, I would have to buy resin. It's also on my list now though.
In reply to RevRico :
I feel that. Something has pissed mine off as well. Stupid thing won't put down a first layer at all anymore. I might have to relevel it, but I shouldn't need to do that with the BL Touch. I've seen people print on a slant with the BL Touch installed.
Mr_Asa said:In reply to RevRico :
I feel that. Something has pissed mine off as well. Stupid thing won't put down a first layer at all anymore. I might have to relevel it, but I shouldn't need to do that with the BL Touch. I've seen people print on a slant with the BL Touch installed.
Cliffs on this BLTouch thing?
In reply to iansane :
Its an auto-levelling system. Has a little plunger/probe that pokes out about a 1-1.5cm below the nozzle. The system knows the distance from where the bed will contact the probe because of the firmware programming.
Before something screwed up, I was able to literally hit print and walk away.
In reply to Mr_Asa :
I used a few different types of those, inductive and capacitive, with my A8. They'd work once or twice then totally miss the mark and slam into the bed. For me, nothing beat Marlin firmware built in manual mesh leveling.
10 minutes with a folded up piece of paper on a well preheated build surface with preheated hot end, and it would last until I moved the printer.
I wouldn't glue your thermistor in place. I have never seen those glued in place they are normally held in with a set screw or the head of a small cap screw.
RevRico said:In reply to Mr_Asa :
I used a few different types of those, inductive and capacitive, with my A8. They'd work once or twice then totally miss the mark and slam into the bed. For me, nothing beat Marlin firmware built in manual mesh leveling.
10 minutes with a folded up piece of paper on a well preheated build surface with preheated hot end, and it would last until I moved the printer.
+1 on this. My delta is the only printer in my fleet with a BL touch and it berks up all the time.
Hold off on the jump to resin printers Rev, they are gonna drop in price big time over the next year. I have a Elegoo Mars and it has been great but resin printing in general is a huge pain in the ass and is going through some growing pains right now at the hobbiest level.
RacetruckRon said:Hold off on the jump to resin printers Rev, they are gonna drop in price big time over the next year.
Is that because of patent expirations?
In reply to m4ff3w :
From what I've seen it's more along the lines of the Chinese printer manufacturers are starting to adopt the LCD masked UV cure resin tech more and the economies of scale are starting to drive the machine cost down. Resin printing right now is where FDM printing was at in 2014, at least in my eyes, if that makes any sense at all.
In reply to RacetruckRon :
How do you like that Elegoo Mars? For less than $300, it's on my radar as well.
I think a resin printer is right for me and what I'm trying to do, but I've never used one and don't know anyone that has one I can go use. An ISO alcohol bath followed by a UV cute beats the hell out of trim sand prime sand prime sand sand sand that I've been doing now for smooth molds, but isn't as easy as vapor bathing ABS.
If the cheap ones are accurate enough, I can get around the small build area by going Lego style, at least in my head. The only one I've seen with a comparable build size to my FDM printer is $2,000, and that's just out of the question.
My other big thing is time. With the A8 I've been capped about 60mm/minute, which makes 8 hour slices take 16 hours. I hear the resin are way faster and that really intrigues me.
that oddly perfect square hole? Yea that's from the hot end devising it wanted to bury itself.
In reply to RevRico :
It's a small build volume, like real small so that was difficult for me to adjust to. It's been a good printer and a good learning experience, if you want to get into resin printing that's honestly where you should start. I feel like the learning curve with resin is steeper than with FDM and I am a big believer in starting with a smaller machine and understanding how it works before jumping into a monster like a CR10 or a Phrozen Transform. I have a pre-order Elegoo Saturn on the way, so I'm looking forward to playing with that in the near future now that I'm comfortable with resin printing.
I take it you are using Cura? Cura does an awful job of accounting for retractions, stops, travels and acceleration on Cartesian printers, which really adds up on an +8hr print. I have my machine settings close for my Ender3s in Simplify3d but I'm still normally off by 10-15%. My delta is within minutes of what ever the slicer says though, because the average speed of the machine is a lot higher.
The biggest thing I've found for speeding up prints is a bigger nozzle size and a taller layer height. I run a 0.6mm nozzle on my CR10S at a 0.25mm layer height, the quality in ABS is pretty close to that of the 0.4mm nozzle and 0.2mm layer height I use on my Ender3s.
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