Original radiator is leaking at the DS plastic end tank. Called Dodge dealer for guidance and he said the part has been discontinued since 2014 ( ! ) So I'm going to Rockauto or some other source. Anybody use partsgeek? Anybody recommend an aftermarket radiator manufacturer/brand?
Mishimoto seem to get real strong reviews. They fall into the "buy once cry once" category.
Otherwise an all aluminum one from ChinaRiverBay may be OK.
https://www.mishimoto.com/fitment-search?year=2006&make=Dodge&model=Ram%201500
I bought a neutral safety switch from partsgeek once. The wrong part showed up in the correct box, I'm guessing because somebody returned it or otherwise screwed up. They told me too bad, the box has the right part number to match your order, no refunds no discussion.
I'll never order from them again.
In reply to Tom Suddard :
Yeah, I wasn't getting any warm fuzzies from the website or the online chat. If I have to take the risk of ordering online, I'd rather work with a known quantity. My concern is that the dealer said this was a one year only part number, and the truck is already rare in that it has the Getrag 6-speed manual trans... I really don't need any issues with fitment.
In reply to 93gsxturbo :
I wouldn't hold Mishimoto in higher regard than any of the Chinesium brands, they don't seem to be any better in the design skill department...the advantage of buying from Mishimoto is their warranty.
CSF and Koyorad make good quality aftermarket radiators, but your wallet will feel it.
I needed a replacement radiator after turning my Toyobaru's stock one into a pretzel along with most everything else in front of the engine, I got an all-aluminum one from GPIRacing which is a "Chinesium" brand but the design and build quality look decent. Price was in the same ballpark as stock-spec aftermarket replacements. Edit: Ordered it via eBay.
Welp, I went with Rockauto and the CSF product. Couldn't see paying a ton more for a stock replacement on this vehicle, and I could probably pay 2 to 3 times as much and get no better in quality. If it fits and it doesn't leak out of the box, I'll be happy.
In reply to GameboyRMH :
It would be interesting to look at the core design of the stock vs replacement one. That's where the real variation in radiators lies. I wonder if they have the same fin density? In our testing, that was a critical factor determining radiator effectiveness and why most "racing" radiators don't perform as well as stock.
That should perform well and looks like a good value for a stock-spec aftermarket option, only downside is that those plastic end tanks will inevitably blow open again at some point...
GameboyRMH said:That should perform well and looks like a good value for a stock-spec aftermarket option, only downside is that those plastic end tanks will inevitably blow open again at some point...
I hear ya! But if this one lasts as long as ... heck, half as long as the OE, I'll be happy.
Let me guess--I'd be an absolute chucklehead if I didn't change out the water pump "while I was in there." Truck has 130-140k miles, coolant leaking out does not appear to be the OE specified type. I figure new pump, flush and new coolant. New t'stat?
Is there a local radiator shop in your area? When the radiator started leaking in my 1995 Cummins, I called a shop we had been going to for classic car radiator refurbishment. They said they don't repair the plastic tank radiators, but their price for a new one beat RockAuto by a fair bit.
As far as "while you're in there" parts - depends... if you're pretty sure the existing water pump is original and the first step in a pump R&R is "drain coolant and remove radiator" then yes, I'd probably go ahead and install a new one. Along with new hoses and a T-Stat.
Ian F (Forum Supporter) said:Is there a local radiator shop in your area?
I made a brief search, but found nothing. It seems like so many old-school repair shops have closed up with the increased popularity of the "throw out the old, buy new" mentality. I mean, there used to be a place that would re-wind and repair electric motors, but they are long gone.
I'm still trying to figure out how you have a getrag in a halfton..... 3/4-1ton sure.
4.7 or 5.7? If 4.7, you touched it it'll break in the next 2500 miles majorly. 5.7 will eventually wipe the 7/8 rod bearings out.
1988RedT2 said:Ian F (Forum Supporter) said:Is there a local radiator shop in your area?
I made a brief search, but found nothing. It seems like so many old-school repair shops have closed up with the increased popularity of the "throw out the old, buy new" mentality. I mean, there used to be a place that would re-wind and repair electric motors, but they are long gone.
It's because at one time you couldn't complete with the flaps offering $60 new alternators when you have $60 just looking at it. Now with the recent price inflation, you could be profitable again if you could source repair parts....
Ranger50 said:I'm still trying to figure out how you have a getrag in a halfton..... 3/4-1ton sure.
4.7 or 5.7? If 4.7, you touched it it'll break in the next 2500 miles majorly. 5.7 will eventually wipe the 7/8 rod bearings out.
It's a 4.7. I have heard stories of them being fragile, but I also had a very knowledgeable friend tell me about his 300k Dakota with a 4.7, so I'm just going to change the oil, keep the cooling system cooling, and hope for the best.
The manuals are for sure rare, but they do exist. Pretty sure it went away in the 1500 by the end of third gen production in 2008. My son tracked this one down. Further than I like to go for a used vehicle, but not too far. Got the E39 BMW from up there in NoVa as well.
Often the only difference between an auto rad and a manual are the fittings and the tube for the cooler. So it will work just fine if you don't connect anything to them. I'd probably cap them off so nothing gets in, but an auto radiator might work just fine
jfryjfry said:Often the only difference between an auto rad and a manual are the fittings and the tube for the cooler. So it will work just fine if you don't connect anything to them. I'd probably cap them off so nothing gets in, but an auto radiator might work just fine
After learning a bit more about these trucks, I discovered that Dodge used a separate A/T fluid cooler in front of the radiator. So the radiators are a bit more "universal" than I previously thought. And yes, no harm would come from not using the A/T fluid cooling circuit if it was part of the rad.
A tip of the hat to GameboyRMH, as the CSF rad I got from Rockauto was stupid cheap and looks really, really nice.
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