We live in an old house and have an interior door we want to replace. I don't want/need a door and casing, just a new slab. When I measure the existing door (literally just the door), it is 31.5" wide by 79" tall. When I look at Lowes' website, it seems that all the doors are 80" tall and either 30" or 32". Given how my current door measures, does that translate to a 32" x 80" when I go to buy a new door?
Dunno, but wood doors are easily trimmed.
Go to Lowes et sl and measure a 32 C 80" door?
I would find a real old school local lumberyard with a door shop. They could make any size you need.
ThurdFerguson said:I would find a real old school local lumberyard with a door shop. They could make any size you need.
And it's often really cheap.
A 32 x 80 door is actually 31 3/4 x 80, so you would need to trim to fit. If it is a multi panel type, and you were doing multiple doors, trim height off the bottom to keep the top visuals the same from door to door. I am in the midst of doing a replacement of all of our doors now, so living this at the moment !
Thanks all. There is an ABC Supply here in town, and I think they have a ton of doors. I'll see if they can produce what I need.
Check if you have an "84 lumber" store near by. They usually have on site door fabrication shop
A hand plane makes quick work on narrowing a slab
In reply to dyintorace :
One thing to do before you order a new door is be absolutely sure the old door is square. If it's not you need to have a little extra sizing on the new one to plane to size. BTDT.
I think I'll end up making doors for my house. My ceilings are 84" and all the doors are 74". The previous owner just took slabs and cut the bottoms off which puts the knobs way too low and the bottoms are hollow. That wouldn't be an issue except the dog has discovered they're hollow.
If you have access to basic wood working tools, I can walk you through how to do it very simply. You'd be making a "triscuit" or a stressed-skin platform.
You're shooting for a total thickness of 1-3/8" or so. Use 5/4 lumber (which is actually about an inch thick) and luan (which is 5mm or just a hair over 3/16") Flat-frame the door with the 5/4. Hang the bare frame or shove it in the hole with some shims) to check for square/not square and tweak it. Use a scrap of luan and a couple screws or narrow crown staples on the corner of one side to hold it to shape. Skin the other side with luan using glue/staples. Flush the edges with a flush cut bit in a router. Then remove your scrap corner piece and skin the other side. Sand it and fill the staple divots with drywall mud and paint.... or use pin nails and a brown sharpie on the nail heads and stain/varnish. Luan is actually a kind of exotic phillipine mahogany called Meranti. Takes stain beautifully.
You can experiment with more or less lumber. For a light slab, just frame the outside and skin it. Add a center brace or two for more weight. Fill with lightweight (2lb/ft) urethane foam for sound deadening, or fill with 8lb/ft foam for weight/security.
google "theatrical triscuit" to see how it's done. They are designed for weight-bearing platforms so they use 3/8" ply, but I have done many doors by just using luan. Super rigid and lightweight.
You could also use Masonite with the smooth side out for a really nice paint finish and a little extra weight, but Maso is not as durable. When it gets impacted it tends to get "fuzzy" especially on the edges much like MDF.
old_ said:Check if you have an "84 lumber" store near by. They usually have on site door fabrication shop
Just got home from my local 84 Lumber. To be safe, I took my old door to them. They are going to produce a new door to match. Thanks for the recommendation!
You'll need to log in to post.
