Hey all, there is a ton of noise on all the John Deere forums about the LA series and very little actual answering. I was mowing last week and the PTO stopped working, it's electrically engaged so I figured the switch was bad (wouldn't it keep working and not shut off then? Not sure), so I drove over to the garage and shut it off and tested based on the online info that's available which is not great. Switch tests fine, so I decided to put it in the barn and finish next week. Problem was, now there was no power. wouldn't start. Battery is fine but the dash doesn't come on, lights don't work, no power out of the solenoid. I ordered a solenoid since that didn't seem to be working and it's $15. Ha.
Got home tonight put the solenoid in and same thing, I'd been thinking about it while at work this week and knew that wasn't really the issue but I'm hoping someone can parse all this text into something that I can try. Also, on this tractor LA130, all of the power flows to the solenoid and then out to the distribution block.
Thanks
Does it have a fuse that may have blown? If the mower was running, the coils should keep it running as long as the ignition is on.
Besides that, check for bad connections.
Good luck!
Not that I'm doubting you, but are you sure the battery is good, and that the connections are clean and tight?
I can recall two instances where I had trouble with my electric PTO, once when I had a main shaft seal pouring oil down into the PTO, and once when my battery was very dead. Tractor was running, but PTO would not engage.
Battery load tester time, me thinks.
Yes, I can jump the solenoid and start it so battery is good as are connections. A switch or a sensor is not working
That makes it sound like the main ignition switch.
Do the safety switches check out?
Seat and brake do, brake shouldn't matter since it's not on the pto circuit, seat shouldn't either. It's breaking my brain.
fasted58 said:
Do the safety switches check out?
I also bypassed each one individually and then all together and nothing changes. I've now tested the ignition switch - good, the pto switch - good, reverse switch - good. It has to be a broken wire or possibly a ground
Some of these are funky and run the lights and maybe accessories with un-rectified power, so like 24vac.
probably not the solenoid though. Im going to go look up that model.
did you try putting 12v to the deck solenoid?
also the default position for the deck solenoid is "disengaged" from the blades. It probably is one of the sensors or key switch.
TJL (Forum Supporter) said:
Some of these are funky and run the lights and maybe accessories with un-rectified power, so like 24vac.
probably not the solenoid though. Im going to go look up that model.
did you try putting 12v to the deck solenoid?
also the default position for the deck solenoid is "disengaged" from the blades. It probably is one of the sensors or key switch.
Yes, I tested each position of each switch. Not knowing the actual reading I checked to see if the circuit was open then closed or closed then open upon switching. They all "worked". I did not work the grounds today, I had a bunch of stone to move. Will work on that tomorrow during a conference call lol.
My deere z225 was doing similar funky stuff and it was because the ground cable was loose where it bolted through the engine mounting hole.
gearheadmb said:
My deere z225 was doing similar funky stuff and it was because the ground cable was loose where it bolted through the engine mounting hole.
I have one more load of stone to move tomorrow then I'll be back on this thing. I'll try grounds first.
I had a similar issue on a Simplicity tractor. It did end up being the PTO switch. Sometimes a switch can test OK but when you hit it with a current draw it flakes out. Did you try bypassing the switch to hotwire the blades?
Also, is there a nuetral switch, that ensures the tractor isn't trying to go forward or backwards? If it's a hydrostatic drive, it may have something like that.
The PTO switch does make sense, it would not allow the mower to start. I do not believe there is a neutral safety; it is hydrostatic but because it will only start with the brake engaged it doesn't need a neutral switch.
In reply to volvoclearinghouse :
i routinely test switches by hot-wiring around them.
chandler said:
The PTO switch does make sense, it would not allow the mower to start. I do not believe there is a neutral safety; it is hydrostatic but because it will only start with the brake engaged it doesn't need a neutral switch.
Gotcha. Again, just from my experience with the Simplicity, there's a little switch on the hand-operated hydrostatic control lever that makes sure the lever is in the neutral detent or else the starter won't work. And it's pretty picky. The lever has to be in neutral and pressed over into the neutral slot all the way, or it won't work. I bodged in a spring to make sure it gets pulled over all the way.
Something else to check, some mowers kill the blades when you go to reverse, even hydrostatic ones (which is dumb, IMO) so there may be a switch for that, too.
volvoclearinghouse said:
chandler said:
The PTO switch does make sense, it would not allow the mower to start. I do not believe there is a neutral safety; it is hydrostatic but because it will only start with the brake engaged it doesn't need a neutral switch.
Gotcha. Again, just from my experience with the Simplicity, there's a little switch on the hand-operated hydrostatic control lever that makes sure the lever is in the neutral detent or else the starter won't work. And it's pretty picky. The lever has to be in neutral and pressed over into the neutral slot all the way, or it won't work. I bodged in a spring to make sure it gets pulled over all the way.
Something else to check, some mowers kill the blades when you go to reverse, even hydrostatic ones (which is dumb, IMO) so there may be a switch for that, too.
There is, on these it's a RIO (reverse implement operation?) and it tests good as well. Just a push it in as you reverse so it bypasses the safety.
The more I think about the PTO switch the less I think it's the culprit; it would not allow it to start if bad but it wouldn't have allowed it to stay running when the PTO shut off either. I have a 30 minute break in calls right now so m heading out to the garage.
And I did Hotwire all the safety switches, not sure how I would Hotwire the PTO since it actually switches during operation but I'll check if I can.
Out of frustration I've purchased and installed a new ignition switch, brake switch and seat switch but alas, I still haven't found what the actual issue is.
I'm having an issue with my mower where the fuse for the charging system is blowing. It wasn't charging so I replaced it and it was charging at 16.5 volts. Now it will blow the fuse (I have a circuit breaker in for now) and when the battery gets low enough it won't engage the PTO.
What is your running voltage while trying to engage the PTO?
If I can get it running I'll let you know haha. This may be the push to make me go buy a new one which I should; I mow a little over two acres with this thing and it's a LOT for it.
I recently had to throw a new pto switch on my x300. It wasn't keeping mine from starting, but it wasnt giving enough power to the PTO clutch and smoked that.
It's also needed ignition coils. an idler pulley for the deck. Two deck belts. Wheel bearing fell apart. Transmission input pulley was stripped (why I got it free)
So I'm into this free lawn tractor... Probably $400 now in replacement parts only at least. I'm really starting to think about just replacing it. It's only got 450 hours on it, but I'm doing more maintenance to it than my Austin Healey.
I have an L120 that has wasted two hours for me so far this week. If it comes down to it I'll pay you good money for your wheels and tires :)
Even if I buy a new one this has to get fixed, my snowblower attached to this and where I live I can't be without a sno blower lol.
