Learn me - Table Saws

I have a Ryobi table saw that was given to me awhile ago.  I use it a few times a year at most for household repair type jobs.  I don't like this saw at all.  Its seems really poorly made, it will bog down cutting 2x4s (thinner stuff is ok), the fence is almost impossible to set and keep parallel to the blade, and it doesn't do angles.  We have a few house projects coming up and I want to get a new saw to replace the one I hate.

I am not a woodworker and I have no intention of becoming one so I don't need a big cast iron 3 phase jobber.

What would be a good table saw for general home use?  When things like chainsaws come up the general consensus points to Stihl.  Is there a table saw equivalent?

I know I want something with a solid fence set up.  I also want something I can easily stick in the corner out of the way.  What else should I look for?  Any features I should make sure I get?

Are there good options in the 300 range?  Stuff thats actually worth buying?

I have a Rigid jobsite table saw. Looks like it currently is more like $550.

It has been great for what I need out of it. I originally bought it to build an entertainment center, but have since used it for lots of other smaller projects. It folds up and then can be wheeled mostly out of the way.

Getting a good blade for whatever saw you buy seems to be the key. Also make a crosscut sled. I have a dado stack, but you can do the same thing with a regular blade making multiple passes. I've cut 4x4 pressure treated wood on it and it cuts through that ok.

Not sure about $300, but $400 will get you a pretty nice saw.  I have a DeWalt DWE7480 portable 10" saw with the folding stand and it is very nice, never let me down.  Powerful.  Good, accurate fence, easy to set.  T-bar that comes with it isn't great, kinda loose in the slot, but you can get an aftermarket T-bar that has less slop if you really need it.

I've had a cheapo Craftsman for decades, and I still use it frequently in spite of its faults.  I'll echo the statement about a good blade.  A fresh carbide-tipped blade, suited to the work you are doing, can transform a so-so saw.

The fence is probably my biggest gripe about my saw, and I have a hunch that you'll need to stretch your budget a little, or buy a quality used saw, to get a good fence.

Easily one of the most dangerous tools in your shop, especially once you've taken the guard off, like I have on mine.  Respect the saw!  Or you'll henceforth be known as "Lefty."

Lots of good vids on the youtube.  April Wilkerson's are informational and fun to watch.  Make the ultimate push-stick, crosscut sled, etc. etc.

Look for an older Craftsman. I have my grandfathers and my father's is similar but ten years newer and the both work well, have nice cast tables, and couldn't have been too expensive for them to own them. The fences are a little finicky but work well with some patience.  They both made a lot of furniture with them with no complaints. 

In reply to logdog (Forum Supporter) :

Royobi is the cheap flimsy weakling of the Contractors saws. DeWalt is good as is Mikita. Rigid has a good warrantee.   All need well sharpened  good blades to make good accurate cuts.  I'm sorry but most new blades are only semi sharp and quickly dull. 
Sorry those aren't table saws. Actual table saws are the cast iron  version.  
I have a 5 horsepower Grizzly that uses a 12 inch blade. If you want to plow through 6 inch Oak  all day long you need something like that. 
I throw 2-300 pound timbers on mine and make rip after rip, on up to 20 foot long timbers. 

I probably have the same saw you do:

This one

And I've had really good luck with it.  I've done a lot more cutting with it than I expected to when I bought it, everything from wet PT cutting off corners for shortening split rail fencing to making a kitchen island with it.  

The biggest thing was to take the blade that came with it and throw it straight into the fuggit bukket and replace it with a nice carbide tipped one.  

It will still slightly bog down if you cut wet PT split rails, too quickly, but not too bad.  As soon as the blades get dull, it doesn't have the arse to power through.  

But yeah, if you're not a heavy user, maybe try replacing the blade first if you haven't.

I have a piece of wood with a beautifully circular cut that I keep to remind myself why I don't teach wood. Caught it in the nuts.

Oh, and I have this on a shirt when I teach shop safety:

My grandfather had a '50's Craftsman table saw. All steel. I eventually inhereited it. Don't have it now.

Watching a 2x12 come flying out of his workshop door because it kicked back is a teaching moment.

Wally (Forum Supporter) said:

Look for an older Craftsman. I have my grandfathers and my father's is similar but ten years newer and the both work well, have nice cast tables, and couldn't have been too expensive for them to own them. The fences are a little finicky but work well with some patience.  They both made a lot of furniture with them with no complaints. 

Because Craftsmen are reliable saws often with family history I'm reluctant to tell you that the fence on them is lacking and most of them I see have the blade guard removed  because it too is flimsy.  
  Yes they are fine for what they are and when they were made. Within their limits,  used with caution, and a properly sharpened blade they meet a lot of people's needs 

SkinnyG (Forum Supporter) said:

I have a piece of wood with a beautifully circular cut that I keep to remind myself why I don't teach wood. Caught it in the nuts.

Oh, and I have this on a shirt when I teach shop safety:

I flunked wood shop when I took it. Yep big old F. And thinking back I deserved it.  I took expensive wood and turned it into trash. ( and failed to complete it.) 

Decades  later  with a little guidance I made a grandfather clock. That gave me the confidence to build my own home.  Hopefully you've seen the pictures.  Still have 10 fingers.  On the other hand one of our members lost the tip of his finger  working on a car.  

I have an older (maybe 30 years or so) Craftsman stationary say with the cast iron table and wing extensions.   The stock fence sucked and that's being charitable.   I was able to score a Delta contractor's saw fence off a friend who upgraded his saw to a Unifence (which are sweet if you can justify one).  With a little careful measuring / shimming when I installed it I was able to get it so that you can use the fence ruler for all but super critical cuts.  It locks square and accurately every time.   Add a decent blade, an occasional application of wax on the table to keep it smooth and rust free and it's a decent saw for my amateur cabinetmaker needs.   I'd recommend seeing if you can find a Delta contractor's saw and cut out the middle step.    Oh and X 2 on Shadeaux's observation above, it's only happened to me once.   One never stands directly behind the work and always use a push stick!

11GTCS said:

I have an older (maybe 30 years or so) Craftsman stationary say with the cast iron table and wing extensions.   The stock fence sucked and that's being charitable.   I was able to score a Delta contractor's saw fence off a friend who upgraded his saw to a Unifence (which are sweet if you can justify one).  With a little careful measuring / shimming when I installed it I was able to get it so that you can use the fence ruler for all but super critical cuts.  It locks square and accurately every time.   Add a decent blade, an occasional application of wax on the table to keep it smooth and rust free and it's a decent saw for my amateur cabinetmaker needs.   I'd recommend seeing if you can find a Delta contractor's saw and cut out the middle step.    Oh and X 2 on Shadeaux's observation above, it's only happened to me once.   One never stands directly behind the work and always use a push stick!

I probably have the same model Craftsman as you, but with a somewhat better fence from Craftsman.  Obe other thing taught to me by my dad, if you are ever using the saw and not at least somewhat scared of what it can do to you, you are either not paying enough attention, or you are too tired.  Saved my fingers so far, despite lots of use over my 50+ years.

I needed a portable table saw so I hit up google and amazon to find some reviews.  I'm a die-hard Ridgid fan... not because they're the best, but they're really darn good tools with a lifetime warranty.

When I ended up buying, there was one small thing that I prefered about the Dewalt.  I think it was the size of the throat.  I think I can get 26" with it, and the Ridgid was only 21" or something like that.  They are very similar quality, the Dewalt had a bigger throat, and it was about the same price.

Add to that... My buddy has a Dewalt and I used it and it does a very nice job.  Not good for cabinet-making or finer work, but jobsite it has served me very well.  It's set up at my buddy's house right now while we build his new deck.

DeWalt is the brand you're looking for. I just bought the cheapest version @$280 on Amazon. Take the time to set it up.

My table saw is the Ridgid contractor saw show above. It's a far better saw than my skills require; if you were going pro, it might not be good enough.  I work with wood under duress.

Wood is for wheel chocks, sub boxes, and protecting my drill press table.

Hello Hive,

FYI, I'm in my mid-fifties and I'm terrified by three things I used to do in my earlier years...flying, ATV's, and using my dad's radial arm saw.

Every risk associated with a table-saw is present plus this maniacal weapon wants to pin your fingers down (rather than toss them away) and blast human meat across the shop.  I'm amazed that some regulatory body (OHSA, etc.) hasn't banned production and launched a recall to get these horrific pieces of E36 M3 out of use.

I apologize for not contributing to the OP's inquire...I just want to make a PSA to take a Sawzall to any of these vicious, maiming, pieces of berk the moment you encounter one.

BTW, this isn't the actual radial arm saw I used in my earlier years but it's the exact same model...thank God you never accomplished your goal you berking piece of berk.

I couldn't begin to count the number of close calls I've had using this "tool"...rot in hell you wicked thing. 

Oh dear god those things scare me too.

In reply to RX Reven' :

I gotta be honest, I got rid of mine a couple years ago and now I wish I still had it. So capable. May not be the best answer to every question, but a petty good jack of all trades. Just needs a healthy level of respect, like all saws. 

In reply to RevRico :

I hear you, pinning the material down makes superior cuts but is it worth your fingers, your hand;  I say no.

In reply to RX Reven' :

I inherited two of them.  Nope.  Got rid of them both.

I don't understand why people think the RAS is particularly dangerous. Yes, the blade spins toward you, in the direction you're pulling, but it's the same thing with the sliding chop saw. 

Keeping your fingers/hand away from the path of the blade was taught to me like gun safety-never point one at something you don't want to kill, and always pretend it's loaded. 

EDIT: Good discussion at link below. TL:DR is that blade choice is important and has improved over the years and ripping requires specific setup. 

https://sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?89055-Is-a-radial-arm-saw-dangerous

I wouldn't use a radial arm saw to rip something on a bet, that's why I have a table saw.   On the other hand, for cross cutting wider stock or doing overhead dadoes (like for making bookshelves for example) they're a great tool.   Like everything else with a blade, you need to have a good imagination and respect the tool.   

You think that little Craftsman homeowner saw in the pic above is scary?  In HS shop class we used one with a 3 HP / 3 phase motor and a 16" carbide tip blade.   With a 3450 RPM motor and a blade that size the blade teeth would whistle at no load like a jet engine at takeoff power.   I think half the school knew when it was running.

RX Reven' said:

Hello Hive,

FYI, I'm in my mid-fifties and I'm terrified by three things I used to do in my earlier years...flying, ATV's, and using my dad's radial arm saw.

Every risk associated with a table-saw is present plus this maniacal weapon wants to pin your fingers down (rather than toss them away) and blast human meat across the shop.  I'm amazed that some regulatory body (OHSA, etc.) hasn't banned production and launched a recall to get these horrific pieces of E36 M3 out of use.

I apologize for not contributing to the OP's inquire...I just want to make a PSA to take a Sawzall to any of these vicious, maiming, pieces of berk the moment you encounter one.

BTW, this isn't the actual radial arm saw I used in my earlier years but it's the exact same model...thank God you never accomplished your goal you berking piece of berk.

I couldn't begin to count the number of close calls I've had using this "tool"...rot in hell you wicked thing. 

If anybody wants one of these terrifying bastards I have the exact one in the picture currently set up.  I actually installed a bunch of vinyl plank flooring with it as my only real cutting tool, but as noted ripping stuff is pretty berkeleying scary.

Thanks for the input everybody.  Im going to go take a closer look at the Rigid and Dewalt portables (and their fence setups) and see what I like.  I will report back when I pick one out.