Let's say you're building your dream welding table...

... on a small budget. 90% of it will be welding mild steel, stainless, but as time goes on, maybe other stuff.  Hoping for 5' x 9' with some holes drilled to jig up things at every foot so I can make any combination of rectangle W x H (up to 5x9 of course).  Future plans would include fold-up tables on the ends to house the grinder, a belt/disc sander, and a horizontal band saw

What would you top it with?  1/4" aluminum?  Plate steel?  Plywood/maso with a 20-ga metal skin on it?  The goal is rigid and flat for jigging reasons.

My thought with aluminum is that it wouldn't tack if I dribbled a puddle on it, but I'm concerned that it will pit and melt easily if I'm smacking 200A of MIG at something adjacent to it.

Steel.  You'll warp or melt an aluminum table in short order IMO.  A 5' by 9' table will be pretty pricey to cover in steel of any decent thickness.  One approach that I like is using strips of flat bar stock, with gaps to accomodate milling table fixturing stuff like T slot nuts and clamps.  Here's a video of one along these lines:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=e2GVVJBzTAA&list=PLuKoJWkcJCp7OuLu9XTiGXGCD4fln1bn2&index=2

I want to find some light gauge 4"x 10" (maybe it's 3x10) I beams from a manufactured home frame (trailer house) to build an adjustable height metal wheeled folding car frame jig. I figure something like 10 feet by 5 feet when extended and the I beams side by side when folded up using 2 triple hinged cross bars for when stored away. Then use tube steel bolted or clamped across the I beams for a work surface just where its needed. Something like this. Maybe 12'x6'. I'd build the hinges out of 1" dia. x 0.125" wall tube and 3/4" bolts.

Kendall Frederick said:

Steel.  You'll warp or melt an aluminum table in short order IMO.  A 5' by 9' table will be pretty pricey to cover in steel of any decent thickness.  One approach that I like is using strips of flat bar stock, with gaps to accomodate milling table fixturing stuff like T slot nuts and clamps.  Here's a video of one along these lines:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=e2GVVJBzTAA&list=PLuKoJWkcJCp7OuLu9XTiGXGCD4fln1bn2&index=2

 

That's a very nice setup! Not what I would call budget friendly unless you can scavenge a lot of the material.

I constructed my building table more then 15 years ago. I used a 3/4" thick 5x9 sheet of HDF that I lucked into. It's been great! After years and years of work, it would be due for its first sanding. What I like about HDF is that it's very dimensionally stable both thermally and with moisture. It doesn't react to any metals and there is no contamination worries. What's less fun is the need to ground my pieces every time instead of simply setting them up on a grounded table. I have a few singed spots where I was really reckless (welding some long 1/4" thick steel sitting directly on the table and leaving it there) but it really doesn't want to burn. I wouldn't try with normal MDF because the density difference is massive. That single sheet is over 150 pounds.

All my builds have been welded on that table. And there are more projects that are not on my site.

Also, if you want some holes or slots for your table, realize that the ones in the middle won't be accessible from both sides. So find a way to make them useable from the working side only (threaded or something like that).

I had thought about building a small table (3'x3') with the top made from 2x3 and 2x5 tubing. Gaps between the tubes for anchor points. Outer most tubes on one side would be round so you can use them to bend sheet metal. It would be costly with current steel prices, but I got a bunch of it for <$1/ft a few years ago.

If I wanted a larger table I'd go looking for used industrial racking and find something for a top.

Edit: Just go to FB Marketplace and enter "steel table" or "welding table" and see what shows up.

Example...$600..

A $200 example....

This video showed up in my youtube feed last night.  https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LCGAOPb8Q6g

It's about Harbor Freight's welding fixture table.  Not phenomenal but seems reasonable for the price.

I saw a guy on Youtube that made a welding table from an old table saw.  After removing the saw/motor he had a really strong flat table.  the only downside was the lack of holes for clamping.

I had a large table for a while, but ended up with two smaller tables on wheels that are the same height. For what I do it works much better. One of the tables has electro magnets for grinding, and holding onto items, while the other is more for welding, and fixturing. The weld table top is hinged so I can use the slats for clamping.

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I haven't found anything locally that would work, but I keep looking.  Most of the stuff around here is small, like 3x4 or 2x6.

For the base I can probably scavenge enough scrap to build.  The top would likely have to be purchased.  I like the slats for clamping.  I was hoping for perforated so I could use pins to jig and maybe cam clamps on the table instead of slots for pipe clamps.  That might be a pipe dream (pun intended)

In reply to Kendall Frederick :

That video does give me dangerous ideas.

Thoughts about a very rigid wood frame with adjustable casters to account for floor imperfections?  Scrap wood I have in truckloads.  Scrap steel will be a bit of a pickle.

I already have one. 3/4" steel plate top. C channel legs. Needs better wheels to roll. Grandpa built. It almost takes a wrecker or extended length forklift to move. If it doesn't weigh at least 1000#, I would be surprised.

I have this one: from northern tool.  I figured I couldn't build a better one for a hundred bucks.

It says its a plasma cutting table, but it works great for welding.

My favorite work welding table. 5x9, top is 2" thick.

At home I have 4x4 with a 1/4" top. It isn't heavy enough for fabbing and it rings when you drop any tool on it. My corrective plan is to lift the top off the frame and insert a couple layers of 3/4" plywood, then thru bolt it back down to retain conductivity, someday.

What are you going to build that you need such a huge weld table? And I take it you have plenty of shop space so it wouldn't be in the way? 

wae said:

I have this one: from northern tool.  I figured I couldn't build a better one for a hundred bucks.

It says its a plasma cutting table, but it works great for welding.

That would be a great price, but I need much bigger.  Northern tool sells a 5 x 10 top only (make your own frame) .... but it's $10,000

MiniDave said:

What are you going to build that you need such a huge weld table? And I take it you have plenty of shop space so it wouldn't be in the way? 

4 x 12 walls with 1" square tube.  Sometimes I'm building 24' x 40' stuff, but that can be done on the floor or sawhorses.  Shop is 30 x 80 and pretty crammed full of stuff.

Here it is minus the Unisaw and 4x8 work table.  I'm standing in a loft and there is about another 20' under my feet which is where the welding shop will be.

If you are *always* building new 4x12 walls, then I would build a 5x14 table.  

If its a one-and-done, I would have a local shop with the right sized table build them if they gotta be dead nuts or lay them out on the floor if they dont have to be dead nuts.

TBH a 3' x 5' table especialy with some extensions or support poles should do 99% of what you are doing and the suggestion of a used steel table is very good.

Lastly, I am not a Safety Steve, but doing significant hot work in that shop looks like an insurance claim waiting to happen.  

I use something like this at work. 

Newport optical tables with breadboard holes. Vibration isolated, perfectly flat and you can get them for about 3-5K a table with the legs and leveling feet. You can connect then together with bars they sell to keep the spacing equal across table gaps as well. You can get the tops used for a 500$ or so online from old labratories. 

My table is a 4ft*4ft*1in fixture table on a rolling base made from hardware store industrial racking.

The fixturing holes are 4" spacing and threaded 1/2-13. I have used this table to build some very big items including the skeleton for the Challenge car body (~6ft*12ft*3ft). To support large structures off-table I use adjustable height roller stands around the garage. This lets me get away with a very strong table and reduced floor space requirements. The roller stands are set to account for any out of plane and keep the welding area on the flat table or supported enough to tack off-table parts. The table top is about 700 pounds and the base uses the standard racking mount slots for adjustable shelving to hold alot of my other heavy fabrication tools (rollers, benders, rotary table, bench grinder, notchers, shears, drill press, etc) that can all be bolted to the table when needed on a very solid base. I purchased some very heavy rated casters for the corners so I can posltion and lock it down anywhere in the garage. It is steel and allows me to tack steel parts to it if needed, but it does collect MIG spatter unless I spray it with anti-spatter first. I usually use a milling machine clamp set to hold parts for welding setup. Cast iron will be better for spatter resistance, but steel is what I have.

Another note: this fixture plate was part of a larger assembly (8 plates arranged 2*4) that was used for chassis construction. With that idea, several smaller tables might be a better solution, as long as you have a way to level them to each other.

93gsxturbo said:

If you are *always* building new 4x12 walls, then I would build a 5x14 table.  

If its a one-and-done, I would have a local shop with the right sized table build them if they gotta be dead nuts or lay them out on the floor if they dont have to be dead nuts.

TBH a 3' x 5' table especialy with some extensions or support poles should do 99% of what you are doing and the suggestion of a used steel table is very good.

Lastly, I am not a Safety Steve, but doing significant hot work in that shop looks like an insurance claim waiting to happen.  

Not always, but I build 12-16 of them every couple years.  4x8s and 2x8s I build frequently.  It's a theater scene shop, so this upcoming show I'll be building some 12' tall sections that can be assembled into two 40' wide walls.  I never know exactly what I'm building until I get designs, so more is often better.  I figure a 5x9 lets me build 4x8s all day, and the 12' and larger stuff could use some extensions.

Ventilation and fire suppression are up to code.  The closest flammable material might be a wee bit closer than code, but at least it's old, so it will burn really fast and likely vaporize me before the lawyers catch me (I'm kidding)

This is also a non-profit community theater.  Farming out construction for one of these frames would be half my budget for the entire build.  I also teach stagecraft here as part of our 501(c)3, so the whole point is that we do everything in-house.  I don't even rent backdrops, I teach people how to sew, size, and paint them from raw fabric.

You might also want to plumb in an air line and a few electrical outlets on a leg,  or somewhere below the table.  It's just handy.

Once you get a cost estimate put together ....

... this is a sample of what's out there. Life changes and people move on. You win.

$2k.

$600 in Harrisburg.

914Driver said:

You might also want to plumb in an air line and a few electrical outlets on a leg,  or somewhere below the table.  It's just handy.

Not long ago I put drop air and 120v from the ceiling on retractable reels.  It's been a godsend.  For now I have an 8/4  SJOW extension cord from the 220v outlet, but plans are in the works to put a 220v box closer to that end of the shop.

In shopping for a table, I'm noticing that they're berkeleying expensive.  I get it.  They're a purpose-built piece, but I'm finding it hard to spend $1000 on a table that isn't big enough and is comprised of about $13 worth of scrap steel.  I feel like I could buy all virgin steel and assemble a nice table for less than a used table sells for, especially considering that the framework part of the table could be built from my scrap pile for "free"

Hence, I'll re-emphasize the thread's initial timbre:  "building" your welding table.

stafford1500 said:

My table is a 4ft*4ft*1in fixture table on a rolling base made from hardware store industrial racking.

The fixturing holes are 4" spacing and threaded 1/2-13. I have used this table to build some very big items including the skeleton for the Challenge car body (~6ft*12ft*3ft). To support large structures off-table I use adjustable height roller stands around the garage. This lets me get away with a very strong table and reduced floor space requirements. The roller stands are set to account for any out of plane and keep the welding area on the flat table or supported enough to tack off-table parts. The table top is about 700 pounds and the base uses the standard racking mount slots for adjustable shelving to hold alot of my other heavy fabrication tools (rollers, benders, rotary table, bench grinder, notchers, shears, drill press, etc) that can all be bolted to the table when needed on a very solid base. I purchased some very heavy rated casters for the corners so I can posltion and lock it down anywhere in the garage. It is steel and allows me to tack steel parts to it if needed, but it does collect MIG spatter unless I spray it with anti-spatter first. I usually use a milling machine clamp set to hold parts for welding setup. Cast iron will be better for spatter resistance, but steel is what I have.

Another note: this fixture plate was part of a larger assembly (8 plates arranged 2*4) that was used for chassis construction. With that idea, several smaller tables might be a better solution, as long as you have a way to level them to each other.

The pallet racking idea had crossed my mind.  I have some pallet rack beams that are almost 9' and some steel spans that are about 3'.  That could get me 9 x 3 for no cost (other than the opportunity cost of possibly needing those beams in the future and having to replace them).  I could also buy something that could be cut to 5' spans to make a 9 x 5.  I'm a little hesitant to cut up my only proprietary spare beams, but I'll have to re-assess that.