In reply to ¯\_(ツ)_/¯ :
I've posted drum stuff in here before, so go for it!
That's a nice little kit. I've been impressed with the PDP maple stuff; a lot of working drummers say they are the best kept secret for affordable, good sounding drums. I wish they were around when I bought my giant Yamaha kit years ago.
In reply to Tony Sestito :
I had a PDP piccolo snare that I ended up giving to the drummer in my last band. It sounded great & he posted a pic of his kit the other day(he now has a cymbal endorsement!) and he’s still playing that snare.
Uh oh. “Need gone by xmas.” Eyeballing that banjo & hi flier bass.
In reply to poopshovel again :
That Peavey 40w(?) is definitely worth picking up too.
Well, I did a thing...
I haven’t bought a new bass in about 5-years. The combination of being a lefty, only playing short-scale basses, and preferring 5+ strings greatly narrows my choices. Plus there’s not much I’d change about my 6-string bass anyway.
However, I’d been thinking about picking up a frettless bass. I’ve owned 2 different ones years ago, and know I can’t actually play them worth a damn(I just don’t have the patience to deal with an instrument that limits my ability), but I’ve been wanting a cheap one to use as a tool to help train my ear. I just scored this one for $175:
It’s a cheap bass, but I don’t actually need it to do anything well. It’s also full-scale, but since I’m not concerned with actually “playing” it, that doesn’t really matter much. We’ll see how the experiment works out...
I believe I've mentioned in past posts about the one guitar I really wish I hadn't sold: a 1980 Les Paul Custom. I tried to replace it with a '71 Standard, but I just didn't like the fatter neck.
During the New Year's Eve party, I was talking about this with my old bass player. The next day, a guitar pops up on a Facebook trading group for guitars. 1979 Les Paul Custom, wine red, Kahler bridge. $2500 OBO. Considering most Customs from this era seem to be selling for over $3000, it seemed worth a look. A few messages later and a cash withdrawal from the bank and I was on my way.
The seller is a woman about my age who has owned the guitar for 34 years. Bought it used from a guitarist in a local band, and then never really learned to play it. So it usually lived in the case, occasionally getting played during parties by others.
I pull it out, tune it and the neck is like going back in time. Thin. Fast. Low action. In other words - nothing like Les Paul models you'll find in stores today. Some good "player" wear, but nothing terrible. The Kahler is broken, but I have another one I can install. We settle on $2100.
Two of the fine tuners are broken off in the cam. Not sure what the mini switch does.
I'm happy. Now to get the '71 Standard sold...
Added to my jangly grungy offset body short scale Fender collection.
CIJ Jaguar HH:
It's got a non-standard wiring layout for a Jag.
It's a snakebite from a Bigsby somebody had on it at some point (not going back on) and a deeper C neck than I'm used to. The Jag is 24 inch while the Cyclone is 24.75. I really wanted a CIJ with a matching painted headstock so it took a while for this one to come up and it rips. Bridge pickup was replaced with a Duncan Pearly Gates like my Cyclone.
The comparison shot:
I picked up a guitar for the first time in the 1990's and you sure can tell.
Ian F said:I believe I've mentioned in past posts about the one guitar I really wish I hadn't sold: a 1980 Les Paul Custom. I tried to replace it with a '71 Standard, but I just didn't like the fatter neck.
During the New Year's Eve party, I was talking about this with my old bass player. The next day, a guitar pops up on a Facebook trading group for guitars. 1979 Les Paul Custom, wine red, Kahler bridge. $2500 OBO. Considering most Customs from this era seem to be selling for over $3000, it seemed worth a look. A few messages later and a cash withdrawal from the bank and I was on my way.
The seller is a woman about my age who has owned the guitar for 34 years. Bought it used from a guitarist in a local band, and then never really learned to play it. So it usually lived in the case, occasionally getting played during parties by others.
I pull it out, tune it and the neck is like going back in time. Thin. Fast. Low action. In other words - nothing like Les Paul models you'll find in stores today. Some good "player" wear, but nothing terrible. The Kahler is broken, but I have another one I can install. We settle on $2100.
Two of the fine tuners are broken off in the cam. Not sure what the mini switch does.
I'm happy. Now to get the '71 Standard sold...
That's awesome.
Well my fretless bass finally arrived. For whatever reason USPS decided the best route was Houston->Dallas->Jackson->Atlanta->Mobile->Gulfport->Biloxi.
I need to flip the strings around(I play strung right-handed) & actually set/file the nut, but I think it’ll play ok once I’m done. I was surprised to discover the saddles just float in the bridge, so I’m planning to mark their position once I intonate it & use a bit of adhesive to prevent them from sliding when tuning like they do now.
Pete Gossett said:Well my fretless bass finally arrived. For whatever reason USPS decided the best route was Houston->Dallas->Jackson->Atlanta->Mobile->Gulfport->Biloxi.
I need to flip the strings around(I play strung right-handed) & actually set/file the nut, but I think it’ll play ok once I’m done. I was surprised to discover the saddles just float in the bridge, so I’m planning to mark their position once I intonate it & use a bit of adhesive to prevent them from sliding when tuning like they do now.
String tension is just supposed to hold them in place? Thats odd
In reply to Antihero :
I thought so too, especially since they slide as you tune it.
Pete, that fretless is weird and I love it. Dig the Steve Vai Jem handle too!
In reply to Tony Sestito :
Thanks! Who needs a case anyway?!!??
Pete Gossett said:In reply to Antihero :
I thought so too, especially since they slide as you tune it.
I mean....i guess since its fretless anyway you are making your own intonation as you go....but still weird
Antihero said:Pete Gossett said:In reply to Antihero :
I thought so too, especially since they slide as you tune it.
I mean....i guess since its fretless anyway you are making your own intonation as you go....but still weird
The "it's not going to be in tune anyway" school of thought.
There's a reason the whole orchestra tunes to the oboe...
In reply to Antihero :
I spent a couple hours with it last night - mostly working on it, but I did play it for about 1/2-hour - and discovered a few interesting things...
The reason the nut was so tall is they(presumably the factory) apparently didn’t have any LH nuts, so they just installed the nut upside-down. Yes, with the string slots inserted down into the fretboard groove.
I discovered that the saddles either had, or should have had, adjuster screws as you can see in this pic.
I also discovered this under under the bridge:
So with the bridge down in its correct position the screws would have been inaccessible. I dug through my bins & found some screws that will work, so once I set & mark the intonation I’ll pull the bridge & install the screws to hold the saddles in the correct place.
I had to adjust the truss rod, as there was a bit of back-bow, but I couldn’t get an Allen key or screwdriver to engage anything through the hole at the end of the neck. I removed the end plate & discovered a chunk of wood blocking it, and was able to adjust it once removed. However, there’s still a slight bow around where the 2nd fret would be. I may end up capoing the neck to get an effectively shorter scale length anyway, but it doesn’t seem to be causing too much buzzing as is.
I still need to file down the nut more & I picked up a set of fresh strings at lunch so I’ll hopefully have time to do that all tonight. The D-string on it now is absolutely dead - I’ve seriously never heard a steel string so flat & lifeless before. Otherwise it doesn’t play bad. The position markers are off, other than the 1st octave/12th “fret”, but I don’t want to rely on them anyway. From briefly playing it last night it does seem to be forcing me to trust my ears more, and that’s exactly what I wanted!
Keith Tanner said:Antihero said:Pete Gossett said:In reply to Antihero :
I thought so too, especially since they slide as you tune it.
I mean....i guess since its fretless anyway you are making your own intonation as you go....but still weird
The "it's not going to be in tune anyway" school of thought.
There's a reason the whole orchestra tunes to the oboe...
Itll be in tune, just at a slightly different place. Fretless is like trombone, by ear and memory. I admit im not a huge fretless fan, fretless guitars and complex chords have to be terrible
I played cello for a bit in university. And oboe. I salute anyone who takes on a fretless instrument on purpose!
Keith Tanner said:I played cello for a bit in university. And oboe. I salute anyone who takes on a fretless instrument on purpose!
+1
I like big frets and i cannot lie
Pete Gossett said:In reply to Antihero :
I spent a couple hours with it last night - mostly working on it, but I did play it for about 1/2-hour - and discovered a few interesting things...
The reason the nut was so tall is they(presumably the factory) apparently didn’t have any LH nuts, so they just installed the nut upside-down. Yes, with the string slots inserted down into the fretboard groove.
I discovered that the saddles either had, or should have had, adjuster screws as you can see in this pic.
I also discovered this under under the bridge:
So with the bridge down in its correct position the screws would have been inaccessible. I dug through my bins & found some screws that will work, so once I set & mark the intonation I’ll pull the bridge & install the screws to hold the saddles in the correct place.
I had to adjust the truss rod, as there was a bit of back-bow, but I couldn’t get an Allen key or screwdriver to engage anything through the hole at the end of the neck. I removed the end plate & discovered a chunk of wood blocking it, and was able to adjust it once removed. However, there’s still a slight bow around where the 2nd fret would be. I may end up capoing the neck to get an effectively shorter scale length anyway, but it doesn’t seem to be causing too much buzzing as is.
I still need to file down the nut more & I picked up a set of fresh strings at lunch so I’ll hopefully have time to do that all tonight. The D-string on it now is absolutely dead - I’ve seriously never heard a steel string so flat & lifeless before. Otherwise it doesn’t play bad. The position markers are off, other than the 1st octave/12th “fret”, but I don’t want to rely on them anyway. From briefly playing it last night it does seem to be forcing me to trust my ears more, and that’s exactly what I wanted!
A little bow isnt good but if it isnt fretting out id say forget about it. If it had a headstock id say try the old trick of hanging it by its headstock for awhile too.
I was a little suprised to see rounds on it, i thought fretless basses always went with flatwounds to save the fingerboard
What type of guitar do you guys recommend for little kids? 6 and 8 year olds. Lessons require that they own their own guitar
mr2s2000elise said:What type of guitar do you guys recommend for little kids? 6 and 8 year olds. Lessons require that they own their own guitar
Whatever they want to play really. Squire makes a cheap mini strat that would probably be helpful to someone that young with small hands, its also supposed to be decent.
Otherwise rondomusic.com has some 3/4 scale stuff for cheap usually.
Antihero said:mr2s2000elise said:What type of guitar do you guys recommend for little kids? 6 and 8 year olds. Lessons require that they own their own guitar
Whatever they want to play really. Squire makes a cheap mini strat that would probably be helpful to someone that young with small hands, its also supposed to be decent.
Otherwise rondomusic.com has some 3/4 scale stuff for cheap usually.
Thank you
the store that does lesson, of course wants to sell us their inventory
mr2s2000elise said:Antihero said:mr2s2000elise said:What type of guitar do you guys recommend for little kids? 6 and 8 year olds. Lessons require that they own their own guitar
Whatever they want to play really. Squire makes a cheap mini strat that would probably be helpful to someone that young with small hands, its also supposed to be decent.
Otherwise rondomusic.com has some 3/4 scale stuff for cheap usually.
Thank you
the store that does lesson, of course wants to sell us their inventory
Oh yeah i can imagine. Rondo usually has some good deals including a little amp and such, their shipping can be a bit high though
In reply to mr2s2000elise :
Keep in mind it’s a good idea to pay for a proper setup on whatever guitars you get. That’ll generally run $20-$40 each depending on prices in your area, but it can make a huge difference on whether they decide to stick with it.
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