LM: Finding building contractors to work on a pole barn

In reply to OHSCrifle :

The labor delta...

Every ribbed panel you handle and put down covers 3'.  Every standing seam panel you handle covers 1'.  You have to handle 3X as many pieces.  There are also additional fasteners, closures, and various misc parts and components. 
 

A helper and I installed my roof in 2 1/2 hours. If it was standing seam it would have taken 2-3 days. 
 

That's a snap lock, not a crimp-on. Crimp-on roofs take longer, and require renting specialized equipment.

The delta makes sense to me. 

In reply to OHSCrifle :

How do you give it room to grow and shrink if it is nailed tightly?

OHSCrifle said:

In reply to SV reX :

To me it is like nailing shingles in a valley. No thankya. 
 

Edit: I agree that's funny about the manufacturer's own building. I also strongly disagree with metal roofing manufacturers who say oil canning is inevitable. If you give it room to grow and shrink based on the known coefficient of thermal expansion (including noting the air temp when you install it) you can have great success. If you DGAS.. you won't. 
 

 

How? I can't see oil canning being anything other than inevitable. Might be less noticeable on standing seem panels with fasteners every foot or so.  Metal and wood expand differently and the metal is locked in place on the purlins with screws at a certain temp.

OHSCrifle said:

In reply to SV reX :

To me it is like nailing shingles in a valley. No thankya. 
 

 

I don't disagree, but that's how it works.
 

47 years in construction. I've never heard an architect recommend an installation that was not in accordance with the manufacture's specs before. 😉

In reply to NermalSnert (Forum Supporter) :

Proper installation of standing seam includes clips that allow it to slide. It's not tightly nailed. 

In reply to SV reX :

I think I used to know that. Wont 5v and the like oil can no matter what?

In reply to NermalSnert (Forum Supporter) :

Theoretically yes. And the manufacturers will try to cover their butt. 
 

But in practice, I've never had an issue with it. There are a lot of folds in a 3' wide ribbed panel. 
 

Standing seam has a much wider flat area without folds. 

SV reX said:

In reply to OHSCrifle :

How do you give it room to grow and shrink if it is nailed tightly?

Apologies if I wasn't clear. I was Talking specifically about standing seam panels - attached with clips (as you have already described in another comment).

I have specified "snap lock" standing seam panels on walls and wanted them screwed tight in the middle and to use slotted holes at every other position along the length - specifically to avoid oil canning. The installers ignored it. The manufacturer said "that's what happens". The owner accepted the work I had flagged as non conforming (since architect hasn't got the authority to accept non conforming work - only the owner does)... So I have a longstanding grievance on this topic because getting things installed any way besides "what we always do" is nearly impossible unless you do it yourself. 

SV reX said:

OHSCrifle said:

In reply to SV reX :

To me it is like nailing shingles in a valley. No thankya. 

I don't disagree, but that's how it works.

47 years in construction. I've never heard an architect recommend an installation that was not in accordance with the manufacture's specs before. 😉

LOL. Many of them also label drawing details "NTS" and I like to say that means "not too sure".

Related: do you know anybody that EVER got satisfaction from a roof warranty?

edit: I also see your labor explanation and it makes sense - I assumed panel sizes were the comparable which was a bad assumption.

(sorry, Tim for the thread Jack. Good luck with your shed)

In reply to OHSCrifle :

True. I do not. Residential roof warranties aren't worth much. (We HAVE gotten a lot of mileage out of commercial roof warranties).

But I have seen a lot of leaky roofs that were nailed in the top of the ribs.

Most metal barn places will sell you custom lengths of metal. Menards will for sure (and it looks like they have a couple of WV locations), but there could be small, local businesses nearby as well. 

I'd pull the roof off, roll out some "double bubble" over the purlins to avoid condensation in the shop, install continuous sheets of metal from highest to lowest point, and then finish it with proper gutters/drainage. You'd have new screws/washers, the fewest seams, and actual drainage. 

Once that's done, you can pursue the interior work.

For the concrete, refer to the lift manufacturer's directives. Here's Bendpak's specifications for reference

SV reX said:

In reply to VolvoHeretic :

Correction...

If you ever slip on an oily wet roof, your SAFETY HARNESS will keep you from going over the edge!!

This comment is OSHA approved.