Metal roofing anyone?

Looks like my house is going to need shingles in the next year or 2. While they aren't curled, the gravel is coming off like crazy exposing a lot of the asphalt. My house is small, 800sq ft, and has a simple, one ridge roof. No valleys or anything. Roof structure is in good shape.

The time spent stripping off all these shingles and nailing up new ones would be better used for some sort of car project. It seems like metal roofing would go up faster, and last longer. Anyone done this as a DIY?

I'm subscribed as I'm in the same situation, but a slightly larger house and more "complex" roofing.

I've heard that metal is more expensive than asphalt. I did do some searching and if this is really good enough for residential, then it's actually cheaper than asphalt.

-Rob

The success of a metal roofing project is 20% in the materials and 95% in the installation. The devil is in the details.

I can't imagine an 800 sq ft shingle roof would take more than a day or two even for a Harry Homeowner. Hell, any Mexican roofing crew around here would be done by lunchtime.

We just did my enclosed front porch in metal. Its only 3 1/2 square in shingle speak. Cost us 200 more to do it in metal but i had an experienced roofer doing most of it. When the rest of the house needs a roof it will go metal too because the material warranty is longer and i prefer the look. My porch took about 6 hours for 3 of us.

I did approximately 1800 SQ foot metal snap lock roof two summers ago. The total cost was $6500.00 including labor. The actual sheet metal roof cost $3200.00. My neighbor helped a lot and I still owe him for all the work he did. I also hired two twenty something kids to do most of the tare-off and help with heavy lifting.

This one of two bundles that was delivered.

Modified my car hauler to make a rolling dumpster.

After the deck was repaired the new roofing was installed. For the rear of the house ( 1000 sq foot) it took 48 hrs from tare off to finish.

The dog was not amused.

Why didn't you use your truck to haul off the debris?

Keep in mind if you're in area that has the potential for sever storms and hail, that dents in the metal roof will count as cosmetic and not structural damage.

Just in case you think that's something that might bug you.

Just put a metal roof on the new barn I built, a 12 x 24 a frame. It wasn't too bad of a job, work slow and make sure you keep the roofing pieces square to each other and the roof framing. The ridge vent was the trickiest part- as I screwed in one end the other end would bulge out. The end product on mine looks a bit fugly; good thing its a barn. In retrospect, I'd go back and screw both ends in. and work towards the middle. It would take longer (and I hate being on the roof!) but probably come together more seamlessly. Anyway, it doesn't leak.

The roofing screws I used had a little rubber washer under the head, nice touch. I used a hammer to tap the screw, thus denting the roof slightly before drilling them in. They say "self drilling" but the little dent helps keep the screw tip from wandering as you drill. Make sure you don't drive the screw in all the way- just far enough that the rubber washer is compressed.

Just an FYI, the screwed down stuff pretty much always eventually leaks at the screw holes.

STM317 wrote: Just an FYI, the screwed down stuff pretty much always eventually leaks at the screw holes.

The roof on my house is metal, and nailed, and probably 30 years old (judging by the surface rust on the outside) and I see no evidence of water in the attic. But yes, I could see that adds a chance for leaks. What do they use now- some sort of interlocking roof that doesn't need fasteners?

NOBODY around here uses shingles anymore. This style is the most popular, and it's not typically much, if any more than shingles.

Duke wrote: The success of a metal roofing project is 20% in the materials and 95% in the installation. The devil is in the details. I can't imagine an 800 sq ft shingle roof would take more than a day or two even for a Harry Homeowner. Hell, any Mexican roofing crew around here would be done by lunchtime.

I used to install custom copper roofing for a company- way bigger bucks than we are talking here.

But I agree 100%- the installation will make or break the results.

I feel compelled to comment, as I manage a metal roofing shop. Metal is a bit more than shingles in price, installation is key (I agree with Duke). Metal is also lighter. Honestly, it is sort of 6 of one, half dozen of the other. Single slope roof- easy. I can say, I have a galvalume roof onmy shop that is great 5 years in, but I got the best installer I could find (12/12 pitch). My only complaint is tree sap. Looks like heck on the bright roof try bronze, brown, or some other earth tone.

And yes, the heat expansion and contraction will loosen the screws over time, but this can often be fixed by tightening them until the rubber washer "pooches" out, but doesn't blow out. The expansion andcontraction is worse with longer pieces think over 20'. I like metal roofs.

volvoclearinghouse wrote:

STM317 wrote: Just an FYI, the screwed down stuff pretty much always eventually leaks at the screw holes.

The roof on my house is metal, and nailed, and probably 30 years old (judging by the surface rust on the outside) and I see no evidence of water in the attic. But yes, I could see that adds a chance for leaks. What do they use now- some sort of interlocking roof that doesn't need fasteners?

I guess I should've been more clear. It still uses fasteners, so there's always the potential for leaks, but the highest quality stuff is called "Standing Seam", and basically the fasteners are on the edge of each piece, and are then covered by the overlapping part of the next piece. It keeps the moisture out, and looks better in most cases since the fasteners are hidden.

Here's a decent overview: http://inspectapedia.com/BestPractices/Standing_Seam_Metal_Roofs.php

I've also seen people use the cheaper, easier screw-down stuff, and then brush a seam-sealer over all of the seams/screw holes to keep it water tight. That works too, but can be unsightly for residential roofs.

Beware roof flatness. While shingles lay over sagging beams and such easily, large metal sheets don't do it so easily or neatly.

Mine is an older standing seam metal roof on an old farmhouse with less than perfectly flat surfaces. It boings and pops and rattles in the wind. I think it adds character, but it probably would bug some.

Ive done a few metal roofs. Stand seam is the way go to, the click together stuff is easy. If its really low pitch the pinched seams are needed.

Agree completely that the install is the key. Take 4 hours if needed to get the first piece on square and exactly how you want it. All the others clip to it. It dictates everything. Otherwise its easy to install, take your time, make sure the panels are down flat, and keep in mind the ridge cap covers quite a ways down, I prefer to make the panels a little shorter than the roof length, gives you a little wiggle room if things are not square and straight.

My house has a metal roof. I didn't install nor would I want to, but there is a lot of square footage and it is high off the ground. I like it. If I were doing a new metal roof, I would go for a lighter color to help with attic heat in the summer time.

I put metal on my garage, the sheets were ordered to length so the "cut ends" were painted. Red outside, white inside. Cost of metal in 1994 was higher than shingles and tar paper, but as a new build I didn't have to spring for the cost of plywood. You run furring strips across the rafters and screw the metal to those. That's a 10 - 12 pitch roof.

My panels were 4ft. wide, not the skinny and easier to handle stuff like El Cheapo's. I insulated the living space, walls and ceiling; but not the attic. Ventilation is handled by an open sophit and a ridge vent. It does get hot up there but I don't have to get up there often. (storage trusses offer a 13'w x 8'h x 42'lg storage area).

Left over bits made a potting shed for Mrs. 914 and a cover for the pedestrian door.

Dan

They are noisy in a hail storm.

Alright, good info. Thanks.

Standing seam with hidden clip fasteners look to be the way to go. I'm in Michigan, so snow and ice dams are a factor. I'll have to measure my roof pitch, 4/12 is a guesstimate. I don't mind stripping the roof, but if I can save that step, why not?

I have heard of putting a layer of 2" foam down before the metal to deaden noise and block heat. Thoughts?

Deaden sound? Sure. Block heat? Likely not noticeably, unless there is zero gap/airflow between new and old insulation.

Almost every job we do has metal roofing on it.

The devil is in the details. Installation matters, tightness of fasteners, thickness of metal, flashing details, seam tape, overhangs, sub-flashings, eave drip pieces, base sheets, framing supports, blockouts, etc. There are very few people who do it well, including many people in the business of installing metal roofs.

Most jobs mess it up somewhere, and rely on sealants to fix problems. Not good.

The biggest challenge is penetrations. Everything that penetrates a metal roof compromises it's integrity. Plumbing vents, make-up air, chimneys, wall flashings, parapets, etc.

I have a current job that was installed by professionals. There are 9 penetrations, and 9 leaks.

I love metal roofs, but I have to be EXTREMELY careful with who does installs, and how the details are handled.

When completed well, they offer great service.

A basic roof is not hard, IF you do a LOT of careful reading of installation methods and techniques. I wouldn't recommend a cut up roof for a beginner.

I wouldn't put metal over shingles. Take them off, and install new base sheet (especially Fire-N-Ice in cold regions to help prevent ice dams).

BTW, cheap metal is usually thin metal with poor paint finish quality. It dents, fades, wears, and fails to seal well. Also, ALL roof screws have "rubber" washers, but the expensive ones are neoprene. They look the same, but the cheaper ones will deteriorate in the sun and leak.

We strapped 1 by 4 Pressure treated lumber over shingles into the rafters . Nice base for metal roofing . . Metal Roofing is awesome .

dang.. i was hoping that this guy got into the roofing side of things when i saw this thread:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EiAGSDkkRHw

Zombie thread, canoe deleted