So my wife and I are interested in a metal canopy bed. We've been searching for awhile but haven't come across anything we like, other than this bed that West Elm used to sell (they no longer offer it). I started wondering, given the straight lines, if it is something I could have created for us by someone who works with metal. Not knowing much about that process, I turn to my usual source of wisdom - GRM!
Would it be tough for someone in that business to build something like this? It would need to be able to be assembled/disassembled at least somewhat to make it into our house (and possibly out one day, should we ever move).
A bed with a roll cage. That's awesome
cwh
PowerDork
8/14/12 10:02 a.m.
That will be bone simple to fab up. I built several designer type beds, a good bit more complex than that. You have straight pieces, can use 1 1/2 square tube, build so pieces bolt together. Easy peasy.
Looks like it could support a swing or trapeze bar.... Hmmmmmmm. 
use architectural square tube, not mechanical
make the head and foot looks solid for strength.. add holes for mounting to the bed frame (this depends on what style frame you are using) and make the tubes above the bad that run from the head to foot boards unboltable. You are already doing something that is semi-industrial.. so go to the local big box hardware store and get some flat faced allen bolts that are made for furniture
SkinnyG
HalfDork
8/14/12 11:14 a.m.
It's gotta have just the right amount of "squeak" to it, though.
Also for Max awesomness Braze all joints and clear powdercoat it.
where do the ski boot bindings attach?
nocones wrote:
Also for Max awesomness Braze all joints and clear powdercoat it.
Or use copper water lines and fittings and braze it. Probably have to double or triple up the lines for strength, but it would still look pretty retro / steampunk cool.
So is it gonna have a mirror in the roof? 
cwh
PowerDork
8/14/12 11:44 a.m.
I like the idea of brazing! Super clean the steel with acid, braze the joints, clear coat, super industrial look.
So evidently it's doable. That's encouraging. However, most of you seem to assume that it's doable by me. I can assure you that this is not the case!
Knowing that, do I try to find a metal shop here in town that would entertain building it for me?
And what does this mean?
fasted58 wrote:
use architectural square tube, not mechanical
I even found the West Elm instruction manual for this bed! That might make it easier to explain to someone when discussing the construction.
PDF instructions
jrw1621
PowerDork
8/14/12 12:44 p.m.
King size $250 in Sarasota
http://sarasota.craigslist.org/fuo/3174092513.html
Also listed with mattress for $350
http://sarasota.craigslist.org/fuo/3113837147.html
Similar in Dallas
http://dallas.craigslist.org/dal/fuo/3115331960.html
cwh
PowerDork
8/14/12 12:46 p.m.
I do not like the design of that bed. Head and foot should be welded solid. Way too many nuts and bolts to loosen up, and you KNOW when it will collapse!
cwh wrote:
I do not like the design of that bed. Head and foot should be welded solid. Way too many nuts and bolts to loosen up, and you KNOW when it will collapse!
Don't know why it would be any worse than any other canopy style bed sold on the market today. Remember, unless you're going to weld it up right in the bedroom it has to fit through the door.
cwh
PowerDork
8/14/12 1:10 p.m.
Not necessarily. If head and foot are solid, should be able to get through the doors. Lengthwise pieces would be bolt on.
cwh wrote:
I do not like the design of that bed. Head and foot should be welded solid. Way too many nuts and bolts to loosen up, and you KNOW when it will collapse!
Interesting that you say that. While I love the looks of the West Elm bed, the web is littered with complaints about the hardware connections constantly coming loose. If I were to buy that particular bed, I would probably have some/much of it welded up to prevent as much movement as possible.
jrw1621, thanks for the leads. I'm going to contact the guy in Sarasota. If I were to bring that home, I'd then have some welding done!
You could also just use locking hardware like nyloc nuts or double-nut the connections. There's no need to stick with the hardware that comes with it.
