Well, this isn't the first of the last time I look to this group for totally non car related info but I can't think of a better group of folks to ask. So here goes:
I am trying (still) to get my well going. I have determined that the screen at the bottom is clogged. It's a shallow well so it's just a well point driven 25' into the ground. No foot valve down there. The well is in my garage and I'd like to pull the pipe out and pound a new pipe down there. Installing a new pipe is simple, it's like an argument with my wife I just keep banging my head. I can't figure out how to get the old pipe out. I was thinking about using an old Hi-lift Jack but what could I attach to the pipe that would pull it out straight. I'd pull 6' or so, cut the pipe and re-attach this mystery device. Ideally it'd be something that would cinch harder as I apply tension so it wouldn't slip free and kill someone.
Any ideas?
cwh wrote:
Call BP.
No, he wants it fixed in this century without messing up his garage.
should be a well digging company in your area.. getting a quote can't hurt
mad_machine wrote:
should be a well digging company in your area.. getting a quote can't hurt
I tried that route. Over the phone he said "I'll fix it for $1900 or dig a new one for $5,000." I asked of that included a reach around as well.......he hung up.
Chain tied in a timber hitch will grab a piece of pipe. best thing is when you drop the jack, the chain will slide back down the pipe and then clinch back. The last one we pulled, we used a block of wood and a 14' 6x6 and levered it out of the ground. Long hot work.
I put my last one down with PVC and abandoned the old pipe. As cheap as PVC is it wasn't worth pulling the steel pipe to reuse it. I also jetted it down. They make a screen that has a nozzle in the tip that you screw 1/2" PVC into and hook it to a hose. Jet your well point down until water stops flowing back up around the pipe then force it a little further. Unscrew the 1/2' pipe and hook the well up. It worked good for me, but we have no rocks and I only had to go down about 20'.
Good luck!!
Toyman beat me to it. A chain will grab iron pipe, use BIG pipe wrenches to wedge it to take a break if you do it by hand. Just don't drop it. Good news is, you've only got 25' not the 120' of iron pipe we had on my parents well. Yeah that one went back in with PVC too. a good rope tied to the pump works wonders too. We took the winch off an old boat trailer, fabbed some feet for it, stand on it and crank the SOB outta the ground.
I just used an engine hoist to pull up an old basket ball pole, concrete and all, just a thought sense you most likely have one already
Hal
HalfDork
6/6/10 6:40 p.m.
Toyman01 wrote:
Chain tied in a timber hitch will grab a piece of pipe. best thing is when you drop the jack, the chain will slide back down the pipe and then clinch back. The last one we pulled, we used a block of wood and a 14' 6x6 and levered it out of the ground.
Toyman01 has it. And your Hi-lift jack will make it easier than his 6x6 lever. It will still take some time since you will only get 3' per pull.
Mine is 310' deep. 5" drilled well with pump at the bottom and 2 1/2" PVC pipe for the MF win.
Yes a pipe will grab the pipe, H-lift will pull it. If you need a potty break just hold it till you get one of the screwed together joints out then slip a board with an apropriatly sized slot in it under the joint.
Ok, the timber hitch is interesting. Will that work with large chain? The only chain I have (don't know the size) is used for pulling motors. It's big enough to pass motor mount bolts through and seems like it won't want to tighten up?? Maybe buy 5' of cable??
That size chain should work. We used the chain from our car hauler, one end attached to the lift boom on a tractor, wrap it around a few times and held on the other end by hand, wear gloves. When we had to reset the chain, we just used a pipe wrench, just big enough to fit around the pipe, just loose enough to let it tilt a bit and grab the pipe, down next to the well. Weight of the pump will hold it in place for a minute or two, just don't expect it to hold forever. Should also give you time to separate the joints in the pipe if needed to gain more head room.
Like Spinout says. I want to say we used 3/8 load chain. Ours pipe was direct burial and had no casing. There was no way it would slide back in by it self.
If you are holding the tail on the chain, you don't need to put much pressure on it. If the chain is tied right the load end will clamp on the wrapped end and bind it tight. Just like a timber hitch.
Cable would also work, but it can be a pain to get it to grab something that small in diameter. I would avoid rigging slings as you will use up most of your lift in stretching the sling.
mtn
SuperDork
6/6/10 9:57 p.m.
Completely unrelated... Do you know when your Hi-Lift Jack was made? Good chance my mother or one of her siblings made it, if its old enough.
mtn wrote:
Completely unrelated... Do you know when your Hi-Lift Jack was made? Good chance my mother or one of her siblings made it, if its old enough.
Nope, no idea. I think I'll use my engine hoist instead. That way I'm farther away from the danger and can get more lift.
Can't you slide a pipe down next to the existing one?
Dan
Kramer
HalfDork
6/7/10 9:38 a.m.
The prior owner of my house installed another well right next to the existing one in our basement. It's used only for lawn watering, and the previous one went dry. The new one was hand-driven, and our basement only has a 7" ceiling.
Ours is in the sump in our basement, which is a 18" diameter hole, about 18" deep. I guess the soil is somewhat clay-free, or else it would have been a bear to drive this well. I know nothing else about how he constructed the pipe.
I miss my well. Couple of years ago the township came through and put water and sewerage pipes in.. and then condemned all the existing wells and septic tanks..
I have thought of trying to rig the well for non potable water
914Driver wrote:
Can't you slide a pipe down next to the existing one?
Dan
No, the well was put in after the garage was built and the hole chewed in the floor isn't much bigger than the pipe. If I can't get that pipe out I'll make the hole bigger I guess.
BTW Boost I could wring your neck atm......... Guess what I came home from work today to find? Yup no water. WTF?!! Good news, I didn't have to pull my pump, after a few tests with a multimeter I figured out I just had to track down a replacement for a 20 year old breaker. After half a dozen dead ends, I broke out the tape measure, did some measuring. Come to find out, with a few tweaks a Square D breaker fits perfectly. Hope yours goes just as well.
OK, update, Go to class last night, come home, it's 9 pm, the wife goes to jump in the shower....No water. WTF? Go out and check the breaker, it's fine, check the pressure switch it's closed in the run position, no pump....@#$@#$ ok, goto work this morning, leave a few hours early, buy a new pressure switch just in case. Do some more testing, E36 M3 no continuity in the pump wires....just for fun, pump hot wire to the well casing, and yup continuity. CRAP! Pull the pump, and about halfway down there's two wires burnt through. Keep going and right at the water line, all 3 wires are burned through, heck one's missing about 3 inches worth of wire. Must have been one heck of a lightning strike. Spend the afternoon splicing wires, and just dropped it back in the hole and threw the switch, viola! we have water again. At least it wasn't the pump.
No thanks, once a month is good enough for me. Dunno if I'm going to make it to work tomorrow due to my back killing me at the moment.