Have you cut the tank yet? If so, toss some charcoal in it and light it up and let heat burn the paint off like someone suggested.
Have you cut the tank yet? If so, toss some charcoal in it and light it up and let heat burn the paint off like someone suggested.
The last coat of Aircraft stripper got it good enough that a wire wheel took care of the rest.
I made the decision today to make it vertical. Too many flowchart variables to explain, but I just liked the idea of vertical more than I liked the idea of infra-red and how to stretch the distance between the burner and grate with it being sideways.
I ground down the weld seam so it was less noticeable. I have a metal band saw with about an 8" throat, so I welded up a jig that I bolted to the band saw such that I could cut, turn, cut, turn, etc. The problem arose that the way it sat in the jig with the uneven seam weld meant it was going crooked. I cut far enough that I could fab up some hinges and get them welded on. I found some curved steel thingys (that's an official term) that have been in the steel scrap for ages. They are some curved 1/8" straps that look almost like they might have been toilet flange supports? No idea, but they got cut for hinges. 1/4" stainless bolts and nylock nuts are the pivots.
I did the old trick where I cut about 1/4 of the way around the tank and then welded on the hinges so I didn't have to fight with alignment later.
Tomorrow I hope to continue cutting with a cutoff wheel to free the lid. Then I'm going to scrub the ever-loving berkeley out of the inside because I'm tired of my shop smelling like taco farts.
Today I also learned that propane tanks of this size are made of ASTM A 203 nickel steel. 2.25% nickel!
That kind of explains why a 60-grit flap wheel left a mirror-shine polish. This stuff is hard AF. The cuts I did on the band saw made me think I needed a new blade, but the new blade didn't cut any faster.
Got it cut open. So far, Simple Green and Bleach have both been recommended from the intarwebs to get rid of the Mercaptan smell. Both unsuccessful. I'll try fire next.
Drilled a 7/8" hole in the bottom for a grease drip.
Question of the day: I'm thinking ahead to coatings. I could do some VHT header paint, but I'm told it's not very UV resistant. I thought about a ceramic powdercoat, but I don't think my oven will get hot enough to cure it.
Added a handle on the lid. I wanted it off to the side in case of flare-ups. I've already lost enough hair, I don't need bald arms too.
I cut that little 3/4" square tube to follow the curve of the tank and welded a nut in the tube. That way I could drill through the wood and use a long, countersunk bolt to hold it on. I really have actual shop work today, so I should probably think about.... I don't know... doing the job for which I'm paid?
... But I SOOO want to get legs on it today.
It's so cuuuute! And why not just do this for paint? Autozone High Temp paint. Overkill, but that's the best kill next to roadkill. It's flat, but there's a companion clear coat. And red would look good with the handles.
Margie
And the grate is sorted as well. Found this chunk of a cast iron grate. Little sucker weighs 5 lbs. My inside diameter is 11-15/16" on the tank, and this one specs out to 11.9". It should fit pretty snugly, and there's room to grind a tad on the grate if it's tight. Now to find a burner/valve. I'm thinking 12kbtu should do the trick.
In reply to Marjorie Suddard :
Red would be adorable.
I have to say I almost regretted going vertical with it when I welded on the hinges and the chimney, because it looked like a pig.
Getting close. The stuff left to figure out and do:
Today I got the "lip" welded on around the lid so it goes down over the base instead of just sits on it. I also welded on a bent nail to the hinge as a stop so the lid doesn't fall over. It found some non-stick muffin tins. I'll use one as the grease cup and the other one you can see is now the chimney topper. I just welded some #10 bolts in the chimney and drilled the one muffin cup to be bolted on top of the chimney. I also welded in some 1/4" nuts in the bottom of the legs so I could thread in some ajdustable feet for uneven or unlevel surfaces.
I have to consider something, too. It's nicely balanced with the lid open, but could tip. I'm reserving judgement until I get the cast iron grate installed, but I might have to weld a plate across the front two legs for ballast to be safe. I can use that as a place to stick my magnetic temp probe display, or maybe make up a nameplate.
QUESTION OF THE DAY: It needs a name. I don't mean like Gertrude or Jim, but I need a name for my little abomination.
I found a burner. It's actually a Paella cooker - 8" diameter with "spokes" toward the center. If I believe the advertisement, it's 5kW, which roughly translates to 17kBTU or so.
I also snagged a 10.25" stainless fire grate to hold some sort of fire brick/radiant dispersal thing. My first thought was just some ceramic briquettes, but they can be heavy, and unless you arrange them just right, you get uneven heating. Since this grill is also portable, they'll roll around all the time. Which made me think of those ceramic honeycomb soldering plates. They might be awesome for this. Problem is, I can't find any that are any bigger than about 5" round or 5x4" rectangle.
Help me come up with a material. Is there anything special about the ceramic in grill briquettes? Could a person just mix up some ceramic slurry, cast a perforated plate, and fire it?
So I think I'm looking for something like this that is around 10", or could be cut to 10", that can be used as a heatsink for above the burner.
Got the burner installed today. I really wanted the tube to exit the bottom and then turn forward so I could put the valve on a plate between the front legs, but that was going to be work, materials, and nickels and dimes I didn't want to spend. Instead I popped it out the side and welded a plate on to hold the burner and valve. Burner, valve, and 3/8" flare installed, so I'm ready for gas on that front. I had to shorten the burner neck by about 4" and we'll see how my butt weld sealed up once I fire it up.
I had some 1/8" strap steel that I bent around a wood buck to make a holder for the grease cup and welded it in using some wire from a pallet rack shelf I had. The grease cup is a non-stick muffin tin from the props loft... a duplicate of the chimney cap.
I also drilled the lid for a (much larger than expected) thermometer.
I have a battery spark ignitor coming tomorrow. Once that's in, I'll try to come up with a side handle situation, then paint, bake, and use.
Leave it to me to make dumbass choices.
I was going to powdercoat this grill, and prismatic powders has a 950-degree powder. I stupidly assumed that it would have a super-high cure temp and bought some VHT instead. Turns out, the powder only needs 450 degrees, and the VHT is supposed to have three bakes at 250, 400, and 600 to properly cure.
SMH
Oh well, that just means 250 and 400 in the oven, then assemble it and fire up the propane to get it to 600. I suppose I could try to get the oven up to 600, but I would make sure I had ALL of the fire extinguishers on hand.
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