Okay, who's the lawn expert?

What's the best way to start over on a section of lawn?

We used to have the nicest grass in the neighborhood on the area surrounded by our circular drive. It's a semi-circular area with maybe 100' diameter. Wiregrass (or whatever it's called) has made gradual inroads until last summer when 10+ days of 105-degree heat coupled with drought blasted what was left of my grass into oblivion. With mowing season right around the corner, I can see that almost none of my lawn has made it. Over 75% now consists of dormant wiregrass with a few wild onions thrown in for good measure.

Realizing that fall is going to be the best time to plant new, do I just suffer through the summer, then nuke it with Round-Up around August and plant seed in September?

What say ye?

I don't pretend to know jack about plants. I bought some Miracle-Grow grass seed in a giant bag and followed the destructions. Throw it on the lawn and water like crazy. It had weed killer in it too. Might have been called Turf Builder? Anyways, that grass is still green and nice years later. Could have been dumb luck

I'm not a lawn expert either but we have the same problem at our place, inasmuch as certain weeds have taken over a non-tended section of the grass and I guess I'll better fix that (landlord would most likely to pay for the materials anyway).

So, free bump .

Your suggested plan is probably the best plan. What grass are you going back with?

It is green isn't. So what is the problem again?

I just mow my weeds

1988RedT2 wrote: What's the best way to start over on a section of lawn?

Woody wrote:

1988RedT2 wrote: What's the best way to start over on a section of lawn?

Wrong thread. You want "Favorite Motorsports Picture".

spitfirebill wrote: Your suggested plan is probably the best plan. What grass are you going back with?

Probably some kind of fescue, although I think what the builder had in there was mostly perennial ryegrass, which was tough and looked fine from the street, but was a bit on the coarse side. I'll need to do my homework for a drought resistant grass, because I'm not putting in irrigation and life's too short to water the lawn.

Not for nothing, but Spring is just fine for planting grass--especially if your region has rainy Springs (mine does).

I had some pine trees removed and I have to plant grass over the area where they were. I'm going to level it off, throw down some topsoil and then throw down a nice layer of contractor grade seed in late March. April rain will come along and I should be all set for Summer.

I can give you an answer but your best bet is local expertise. Call your local ag extension. You will most likely be connected to a "Master Gardener". They are locally trained volunteers and are well versed on such topics.

Hasbro wrote: I can give you an answer but your best bet is local expertise. Call your local ag extension. You will most likely be connected to a "Master Gardener". They are locally trained volunteers and are well versed on such topics.

That's good advice. I've contacted the master gardener before, in fact, with regard to some mysterious damage to some trees.

1988RedT2 wrote: That's good advice. I've contacted the master gardener before, in fact, with regard to some mysterious damage to some trees.

was the mysterious damage caused by this?

Grtechguy wrote:

^ Causes crop circles.

Grtechguy wrote:

1988RedT2 wrote: That's good advice. I've contacted the master gardener before, in fact, with regard to some mysterious damage to some trees.

was the mysterious damage caused by this?

I don't recall seeing any of those. Can they hide beneath the bark of trees?

I used the Scotts Crabgrass preventer (with Halts, I think) two years ago. Crabgrass wasn't a problem. Last year, i didn't use it, and the crabgrass came back.

I have an inground sprinkler system (runs off a well, so somewhat inexpensive). I used it every day last year, up until I went on vacation in August. After 10 days of not watering, the crabgrass came back quickly.

If you follow the five (I think) different applications of Scotts, and water often, you'll have a very nice yard. Do this yearly, and it will soon be the nicest yard in the neighborhood. Sure, you'll mow often (maybe twice a week), but it's worth it.

I realize many GRM'ers would rather have dirt yards with cars littered about, but some of us would rather have a nice yard and a few well-kept cars in the drive. If I keep a nice yard, my wife lets me keep the car trailer and a project or two around. It's a good compromise. Happy Wife, Happy Life.

Kramer wrote: I realize many GRM'ers would rather have dirt yards with cars littered about, but some of us would rather have a nice yard and a few well-kept cars in the drive. If I keep a nice yard, my wife lets me keep the car trailer and a project or two around. It's a good compromise. Happy Wife, Happy Life.

I hear ya. The wife won't allow the lawn to look like E36 M3, so I gotta do something, or she's gonna call Chemlawn, and I don't want that.

I regularly apply Scott's products, but I don't water, and therein lies the rub.

Sorry man, I haven't been on in a while. I've been busy getting ready for landscaping season.

Anywho, I just noticed this thread and thought I'd throw my 2 cents in. First of all, from a landscapers perspective I would need to know what zone your in to REALLY help you. However, it seems you are in a pretty warm spot if the builder gave you perennial rye and you've had 105+ days.

Fescue will burn up in the summer. It works great as a filler but doesn't always last in larger applications.

Definitely stay away from blue grass as it is a cold weather grass.

Bermuda is a warm weather grass and can stay dormant for a couple years and still come back. Around here, it used to be considered a weed until the settlers decided that it wouldn't go away so they just let it go wild. It's roots will go up to 40 feet deep. The caveat here is that it doesn't stay green all year. Only when the weather is 70+ consistently is it green.

St. Augustine is great around humid warm climates but has the same reputation as Bermuda about being a weed. It's often mistaken for crabgrass.

If you think you had perennial rye I would stick with it. Wet down the dirt and chop it up with a hard rake or hoe. Then, apply seed and some top soil. Repeat previous steps several times. Then water twice a day 20 or more minutes each time for two weeks or until you see the grass popping through the soil. Continue to water every day until it is mature. Don't be surprised if it is alot thinner than the grass you have. It take grass about a year or so to mature to it's full width. (some longer).

Before you seed I recommend doing a weed control application (2,4 Di methylene salt) but do not apply in above 85 degree temps. It will burn everything. Keep in mind, hand pulling weeds is the time tested best way to go, although tedious.

Two weeks after seeding I would apply a good all around fertilizer to the yard. Make sure it contains ammoniacal nitrogen as well as urea nitrogen. (ammonia is a quick green up, where as urea has a longer half life and stays in the ground longer) Also make sure it contains Iron and potassium.

Another quick tip, if you have a hard soil such as clay (thats what we have), consider throwing a little gypsum salt on the ground. It helps the soil absorb water better.

Disclaimer: My advice was pretty general but keep in mind that landscaping is VERY zone specific so it's hard for me to advise you as I only know my area very well. If you want better zone specific advice you should go see your local John Deere Landscape Supply store or check out lawnsite.com.