RevRico
RevRico GRM+ Memberand Dork
10/25/16 9:33 p.m.

I think I made a thread asking about washers earlier this year, but I can't for the life of me find it now.

Well, now, my 1993 Maytag Top Load washer just hums when I turn it on. Doesn't pump water, or spin, or do anything other than hum. Is it going to be worth hunting parts for to fix? Model is LAT7793.

I'd prefer to not buy a new one, as a Speed Queen is kind of out of my price range, and that was all I found recommended google site searching here looking for my thread. That and fixing the old one.

I do know a local repair man who could (probably) get me whatever parts I'd need to fix it, if he's still in business, I just don't know where to start looking.

It's been getting worse over the last 18 months, leaking, shaking violently, without ever being moved in the 23 years it's been in the house. It's in a really crappy spot to actually work on, so I haven't had a chance to pull it out or apart yet. Just got home from work, threw clothes in, turned it on, and hummmm.

Barring a fix and a Speed Queen, is there a non-Korean, NOT HE, top load washer that is recommended these days? Top load is a requirement due to space issues. We have a well and water softener if that makes a difference as well.

daeman
daeman HalfDork
10/25/16 9:45 p.m.

Has it been noisey as hell during spin cycles ?

Im thinking leaking shaft seal and subsequently stuffed bearings.

RevRico
RevRico GRM+ Memberand Dork
10/25/16 9:53 p.m.

In reply to daeman:

I haven't heard a noise other than it physically shaking. A seized bearing would probably cause that. I won't have time to tear it apart until thursday. And now the humming noise is the only sound it makes when turned on.

NGTD
NGTD UberDork
10/25/16 9:54 p.m.

Sounds like the motor is pooched or the motor coupler.

Warning - my experience is with Frigidaire/Kenmore etc. (Not sure who makes Maytag these days)

If it is, they are both fairly easy to replace from below. Tilt it back and see if the motor is running. If it is it's likely the coupler.

daeman
daeman HalfDork
10/25/16 10:05 p.m.

In reply to RevRico:

Usually your bearings give plenty of warning if they are getting wet, they get noisey well before they get to siezure point.

Past that, im not much help as im pretty unfamiliar with maytag.

But bad motor, slipping belt if belt driven or a bad motor controller could give similar symptoms.

In terms of repair, do it if it's financially viable, they don't make appliances like they used to.

I recently replaced bearings, seals and the motor controller in my 25 year old Fisher Paykel to prolong ts life. Cost me about 120 and a couple of hours of time. Nothing in my budget would have gone close to the quality of my current fp.

Rufledt
Rufledt UltraDork
10/25/16 10:12 p.m.

I assume you have a washer that says "dependable care" on the top, right?

Take the front off and look inside. 2 5/16 bolts on the bottom. It hinges out on the top, and will fall off at around 45 degrees. grab the transmission and try to spin it. Stuck?

Look under the tub where the transmission sticks up in there. Look ok, or full of muck/rust?

grab the motor pully underneath, stuck? If so, take the belts off and find out if the motor is actually stuck. If it is, it's a frozen motor.

See both belts there? do they look ok or screwed?

Leaking when filling, or leaking overall? There is a VERY common, very cheap, very easy fix if it is only leaking when filling. Unrelated to it being stuck, however.

What i'm trying to get at is there is a bearing/seal where the tranny sticks up through the tub. It can leak mud all over (flinging it all around inside at the level at the bottom of the tub) which is more or less death for that kind of washer. If it clamps down on the shaft, it won't move at all. The water pump is on a separate belt, however, so it should theoretically pump out, unless the belt from a stuck tranny is holding hte motor stopped. It usually wil just slip an burn off, however. Something in the pump can stick that and do a similar thing from the other side, but usually again the belts will just burn off.

A 1993 Maytag is a great washer, but if the seal is stuck, you will have a hard berking time getting the thing apart even if you have tools and experience doing so. That is the one thing (just about) that we won't fix on those. It's rare, but at over 20 years old anything can go wrong.

shaking violently is a sign that the thing the tub/tranny sits on is going out. It's cheap, but a P-I-T-A to change. You could also have a much simpler, free-er problem to fix- are the legs all the way down? I mean can you see under the washer? If the people who delivered it never locked the legs in place, they will slowly work down, raising the washer up on mini-stilts, and it will walk all over the place when spinning. Don't know how the shaking RAISES the washer, but it seems to happen on those for some reason. Also be sure to not overload and leave water level on MAX with those old ones, it will help balance the load while agitating and reduce shaking.

NON-HE alone is Speed Queen or buy something used. A speed queen should be expected to last as long as an old Maytag dependable care, but unfortunately they die in exactly the same way (seal/bearing). They are not all that different, which is to say they are great. Maytag even owned speedqueen for many years.

Don't get a cheap new toploader, the cheap ones die SUPER fast. Like, 4 to 5 years.

Water softener also means use less soap. Like, pods will ruin anything, use liquid and only use the bottom quarter of the cap or so. Too much soap ruins that bottom seal in old maytags, and will do so in a speed queen. On Samsungs, it does this:

The only washer i've seen that doesn't care about too much soap is the old direct drive whirlpools. If you can find a used 10 year old or more non-HE (non locking lid) whirlpool/roper/kenmore with model starting 106.xxxx(indicates that the kenmore is a rebadged whirlpool), you might get a good deal. Unfortunately at that age it will likely have problems, too. But fixable. Those washers are probably the #1 used ones i would recommend if you have a slim budget, simply because they don't have any 1 part that could fail and doom the whole machine, unless the specific timer or soemthing isn't available and that's what dies. We RARELY junk those, but it does happen.

I'd say bite the bullet and get a payment plan on a speedqueen. If you fix the old maytag that has been leaking and shaking violently for a while, it's just a matter of time. Lets say the motor is frozen and you can just change that. Good news. Now why is it leaking? http://www.appliancepartspros.com/07-tub-parts-for-maytag-lat7793aal.html check out part #27, that's the common leaker if it's when it's filling. Simple and cheap. If that plus a motor is the problem, great! Motors are pricey, but that little piece is cheap. Now, why is it shaking around? Could be the legs, could be a couple other htings. Legs are free to just screw back up as high as possible (while leveling the washer) and lock them. You see it's kindof a slippery slope with old machines. You could fix all of these problems and that tub bearing/seal locks up next week. then you're berked, and you have an expensive motor you just bought and a lot of time put into the washer. Even if you fix it completely, that age of machine is just a matter of time. Start saving for a speed queen.

If you open it up and you see it as clean as this:

Then try to fix it. Some of them we run into are literally as clean as new inside. If you take the front of and inside you find a horizontal line of mud and muck slung around about halfway up, your machine is dead or dying.

Rufledt
Rufledt UltraDork
10/25/16 10:16 p.m.

This is what i mean by the horizontal muck line of doom:

RevRico
RevRico GRM+ Memberand Dork
10/25/16 10:39 p.m.

Thank you for pointing me where to look.

This is it's current position, so I won't be able to get to it until the baby goes home so I can put everything somewhere else while I work.

Not a dependable care, oddly.

When I can get to it, I will check on the motor and transmission.

Rufledt
Rufledt UltraDork
10/25/16 10:42 p.m.

weird it doesn't say dependable care. Looking at the parts that's basically what it is underneath. Weird. If it makes you feel better, i've seen MUCH worse locations for serviceability!

RevRico
RevRico GRM+ Memberand Dork
10/31/16 1:55 p.m.

So I haven't had time to get into the old washer, but I did manage to stop at a speed queen dealer today. I was expecting a grand plus for one, because no websites listed price.

Generical GE top load washer $550
Speed Queen top load washer $850.

The new washer gets delivered thursday. If they don't take the old one with them, I forgot to ask, I'm stripping some sheet metal for car projects and scrapping the rest.

SKU is AWN432SP113TW01. Mechanical controls, not digital.

With no one showing prices online, I was scared this would approach challenge budget pricing. Needless to say, I'm ecstatic they're so cheap.

daeman
daeman HalfDork
10/31/16 3:56 p.m.

In reply to RevRico:

Congratulations on the purchase. If your old maytag has a steel drum, they make awesome Fire barells.

Rufledt
Rufledt UltraDork
10/31/16 4:07 p.m.

Yeah the speed queen goes for 850 pretty much everywhere. Circuit boards are the pricey things, and mechanical speed queens rock.

Btw the GE may be cheap, but you do NOT want to know what a replacement motor costs. It's a DC motor with a board on it, and lots of them fail.

We were just at a lightning strike house to do an estimate for insurance, the Lightning damage took out $600 worth of circuit board parts on the GE washer!

We very rarely fix speedqueens that are under 15 years old, they really last. One tip, run water level on max and don't overload it. If you do, the increased amp draw burns the points in the timer in like 10 years. And as always go easy on the soap.

Rufledt
Rufledt UltraDork
10/31/16 4:09 p.m.

Also yeah old maytags have THICK steel in the body and tubs and most of it is ceramic coated. Good stuff, but I do not envy whoever has to move it!

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