Do you know anyone that works at a crematorium?
Do you know anyone that works at a crematorium?
aircooled said:Do you know anyone that works at a crematorium?
I don't know if this is serious or a joke, but I don't care. This is the kind of out-of-the-box thinking that makes me love you all.
914Driver said:Curtis, media blasted, a quality primer and good paint lasts how long? If it were me, I would go for paint and touch it up as necessary or just do it all again in 5 years. Powder coat doesn't stand up to flying pebbles any better than paint.
This is the conundrum I've been tossing around forever. Over a year now and (scheduling conflicts aside) I still haven't pulled the trigger on anything. I wire wheeled the whole thing, which means anodizing companies won't even think about it. I need to re-scrub since it's been leaning up in the shop for a year. I have nothing against painting it, but I won't rattle can it, and the only thing I ever painted with an automotive gun was 30 years ago and it was a fiasco. I really need something with a hardener that will not stay soft for 3 months. I need viagra paint.
I also lack a decent place to paint it. I can't paint it in the scene shop because there is no way to isolate fumes from the rest of the building and there are a few dozen spark possibilities that could make large booms. I have a covered loading dock, but I would have to wait for the perfect day - no wind, not 40 degrees, and not otherwise busy - to do the whole thing... wash/scuff, dry, alumiprep (maybe), etch primer x2, color coat x2, and since I'm so poor at the skills required, I'm a bit afraid of berkeleying it all up.
It doesn't need to be perfect, it's a roof rack after all, but it's going to get used and abused. Lumber, steel, camping, cargo, etc. I know powdercoating isn't perfect, but I also know what the paint on my roof looks like after hauling a single 2x6 on it for 3 miles without the rack.
In reply to Curtis73 (Forum Supporter) :
Need me to come up and take care of it? I'll take it down to Jersey and paint it in a car wash I temp make into a paint booth. It's Jersey so no one will notice.
Break it down and use a GRM relay to get it down to me. I have a powder coating oven that is 4'x4'x8' inside. Pick a color and pay for the powder and I'll do it for nothing.
I ended up building the oven about 12 years ago when I got a quote for over $1000 to coat some parts. Once I decided to build one it was "go big or go home"
edit: I'm in St Pete. so Challenge people step up.
Have you called a bedliner place? That would do the job and hold up great. Opps. You want bad ideas.... I can beat the crematorium idea.
In reply to jgrewe :
You're an awesome person. I'm going to jump back down the rabbit hole of painting videos and see if I can up my game. Or maybe just build a bloody oven.
So I'm searching for a big box that I can insulate and throw a couple oven elements in it. I'm kinda coming up empty handed.
I thought about truck tool boxes, but they're not quite wide enough. I thought about maybe a large diameter steel tube, but raw steel is pricey.
Can you think of some things that might be 2' x 2' x 6-8'? Could be a little bigger... maybe 3x3x8?
Old school freezer with a metal lining? Old discarded heating oil tank? Do they make barrels that big? Hit me with some ideas.
Heating oil tank sounds like a pretty solid idea.
Long insulated boxes ---> insulated HVAC duct maybe. Probably comes in the sizes you are looking for.
Any drainage culverts near you? Is is raining there? Obviously avoid the plastic construction.
You might need a generator. Probably best to wear a vest, have an attitude and casually ignore anyone who walks by.
aircooled said:Any drainage culverts near you? Is is raining there? Obviously avoid the plastic construction.
You might need a generator. Probably best to wear a vest, have an attitude and casually ignore anyone who walks by.
Literally the best thing I've ever heard. I wanna dress up like a city worker and powdercoat something now lol.
Curtis73 (Forum Supporter) said:4cylndrfury said:Step1: POR-15
Step2: Rustoleum Professional Enamel
Step3: World domination
Por15 is super tough and easy to apply with a brush. It converts rust, stops the development of more, and is bombproof. Nothing fancy required, just be sure to do all the prep according to the instructions. Its only kryptonite is that it breaks down under UV rays. Hence the Rostoleum enamel - a good coat (or maybe 2) will block the rays and keep the rack protected.
That would be great, except it's aluminum
So why coat it at all?
I am thinking more alone the lines of finding a tougher paint. Power is good, but it is not bullet proof.
There used to be a paint called "Imron" that was pretty tough to the point where your body man would hate you if they had to remove it. I imagine there is a contemporary equivalent.
Some marketing propaganda from someone who thinks they have the answer. Hell of a lot easier and you can still powder coat if it fails. Have you looked at having it hot zinc dipped? That tends to be a tough surface and it wont rust if it does scratch.
https://steel-it.com/blogs/info/tough-paint-for-metal#:~:text=For%20industries%20that%20require%20an,10%2B%20years%20in%20most%20environments.
Stampie said:In GRM tradition I'm going to ignore your question and just state that powdercoating your hootus is a bad idea.
If your hootus is electrically conductive, I doubt a little heat is going to hurt it, and powdercoating may make cleaning it easier.
Missed the aluminum bit. Ignore the zinc dip option.
How about that stuff you dip tool handles into that forms a soft plastic coating? "Plasti Dip" comes to mind.
If it must be powder coat, could you not do the old Hawaiian Luau thing where you bury a metal coffin on top of the embers and bake the part?
ProDarwin said:Curtis73 (Forum Supporter) said:4cylndrfury said:Step1: POR-15
Step2: Rustoleum Professional Enamel
Step3: World domination
Por15 is super tough and easy to apply with a brush. It converts rust, stops the development of more, and is bombproof. Nothing fancy required, just be sure to do all the prep according to the instructions. Its only kryptonite is that it breaks down under UV rays. Hence the Rostoleum enamel - a good coat (or maybe 2) will block the rays and keep the rack protected.
That would be great, except it's aluminum
So why coat it at all?
Because I want it to be a specific color, and I want it to not corrode and look like dookie.
NOHOME said:I am thinking more alone the lines of finding a tougher paint. Power is good, but it is not bullet proof.
There used to be a paint called "Imron" that was pretty tough to the point where your body man would hate you if they had to remove it. I imagine there is a contemporary equivalent.
The one painting project I did 30 years ago was an aluminum boat. It had already been painted, I was just changing the color over an existing finish so I didn't have to worry about bonding to aluminum. Anyway, that was Imron. I haven't found it to be anything super special, but it does seem to take some decent abuse. I'll look into it.
Edit to add: I checked the Steel-it link and propoganda or not, it looks like good stuff. If they offered it in anything other than grey, I'd be happy.
I'm going for Triple Bronze, Sunken Treasure, or close to it:
Ford's Kodiak Brown has also been a favorite of mine, but not sure how it will pair with my red van.
Long story longer: It's going on this van. It's not a show piece, but it's headed down the path of an actual custom - light conversion inside to a camper van while still maintaining DD status as a work van hauling lumber, engines, dead hookers (kidding), and other cargo. During the week it might carry 16' lumber or sched 40 pipe on the rack and plywood in the cabin, then on the weekend it will be a 4x4 steel-sided tent. It's a canvas that I want to be a conversation starter as opposed to just the easiest possible thing.
Justc came across this bad boy. Not quite big enough, but getting close
1 - Rent insulated van
2 - Turn back into oven
3 - Return with a smile?
In reply to Old_Town :
Do they have optional fire/melting coverage?
Stop by your local HVAC shop and see if they have some damaged ducting for cheap in the length you need. Throw an old quilt or blanket over it to hold in the heat.
Buy these for $31 from Amazon and wire into your stove receptacle.
Thermometer of your choice.
I baked my powder coat at 375-400 degrees for 15 minutes or so.
I strongly suggest doing this outside and having a fire extinguisher handy.
I was going to wrap it in duct panels, so we're on the same page there. If duct panels don't do the trick I can step up to rockwool or fiberglass batts.
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