oldtin
oldtin PowerDork
7/25/18 11:26 p.m.

Looking at a e60 (530 xi - 3.0 liter n/a n52 engine, all wheel drive) manual 6 spd trans, straight body 175k on the clock - sport seats - needs control arms/bushings.  Worth $1,500? No pics , but I've seen it and driven it around a parking lot. Front has a bunch of rock chips on black paint - no accidents, one owner - may not have been super diligent on oil change timing.

oldtin
oldtin PowerDork
7/25/18 11:27 p.m.

Aisle - i'm tired

mtn
mtn MegaDork
7/25/18 11:33 p.m.

How is the rust? I'd think it is easily worth $1500, assuming you didn't miss a zero. You'd clean up in the Aristocrats class.

02Pilot
02Pilot Dork
7/26/18 6:33 a.m.

If there's no rust and no weird noises from the driveline, it's a no-brainer.

Control arms are easy. Plan for a cooling system too, especially the failure-prone electric water pump. Check the accessory belt - if it is even microscopically off-center on the tensioner and idler pulleys, change all of them immediately - failure often causes the belt to wrap around the back of the crank pulley and forces debris past the main seal into the crankcase. Change all the fluids, do the engine oil again after 1k miles or so to flush everything out.

AngryCorvair
AngryCorvair GRM+ Memberand MegaDork
7/26/18 11:34 a.m.

berkeley yes.  I really like my AWD E60.  for 3 years now (bought at 136k, now at 185k), I've been DD'ing a 2007 525xiA.  On Blizzaks it rapes winter.  FWIW, factory oil change interval is 15k miles (i change at 10k).

DIY'ing the electric water pump was a motherberkeleyer because hose clamp orientation plus front halfshaft.  If I had to do again I would sawzall the hoses, pull the pump and thermostat assembly, then reassemble paying very close attention to clamp orientation.  My pump was OE, failed at 140k.  At 175k, yours has probably already been replaced.

it will probably need valve cover, oil filter housing, and oil cooler gaskets.  These are relatively easy although tool access to the the OFH lower bolt is a little tricky.  VC bolts are aluminum and are one-time-use.

control arms (probably the "tension struts") are easy.  i cheaped out and just replaced the bushings because i had access to a press.

i'd love to have that car, as it's got more power and more pedals than mine.   the sport seats are another plus.

aside from oil and filter changes, here's what my car has required from 136k (Sep '15) to 185k (today):

  • Front and Rear Rotors and Pads (138k)
  • Cabin Air Filters (138k)
  • Electric Water Pump and Thermostat Assy (140k)
  • Oil Cooler Gasket and Oil Filter Housing Gasket (140k)
  • Angel Eye Bulbs, because PO installed wrong type (154k)
  • FEAD belts pulleys and tensioner.  ContiTech kit (154k)
  • Tension Strut Bushings, Outer Tie Rod Ends (154k)
  • Front Sway Bar End Links (165k)
  • Transfer Case Fluid Change (165k)
  • Heater Control Valve (i berkeleyed it up by using Blue Devil stop leak) (169k)
  • Engine Air Filter (175k)
  • Wiper Blades (175k)
  • VANOS Solenoids Cleaned (DTC for Intake Cam Timing) (175k)
  • Repaired broken wires in Trunk Lid Wiring Harness (will add pix) (175k)
  • Power Steering Reservoir Cap O-Ring (175k)
  • Alternator (180k)
  • Oil Cooler Gasket and Oil Filter Housing Gasket (180k)
  • Valve Cover and VANOS Actuator Gaskets and VANOS "relearn" procedure (180k)
  • Starter (solenoid failed), Intake Manifold Gaskets (have to remove IM to access starter), CCV Hose at back of intake (184k)

it looks like a long list, but i don't think any of it is out of line for an 8-11 YO / 136k to 185k car.

also, i have a small leak at rear main seal, 1 quart every 1250 miles.  i ain't fixing that.

Short answer:  I'd buy it in a heartbeat unless it needs a clutch, and even that is DIY-able.

Robbie
Robbie GRM+ Memberand PowerDork
7/26/18 11:56 a.m.

Yeah, i'd say good deal if you want to drive it. If you want to flip, the age and MT will make it a difficult candidate to sell.

AngryCorvair
AngryCorvair GRM+ Memberand MegaDork
7/26/18 12:29 p.m.

As promised, pix of broken wires in trunk lid harness:

The broken wires were for the license plate light bulbs.

stuart in mn
stuart in mn UltimaDork
7/27/18 1:34 p.m.

Are they really that cheap today?  The price seems crazy low.

AngryCorvair
AngryCorvair GRM+ Memberand MegaDork
7/27/18 2:46 p.m.
stuart in mn said:

Are they really that cheap today?  The price seems crazy low.

i've not seen an E60 this low.

David S. Wallens
David S. Wallens Editorial Director
7/27/18 2:51 p.m.
oldtin said:

Aisle - i'm tired

It's kinda funnier that way. If you want, we can fix it. 

Indy-Barely Functional-Guy
Indy-Barely Functional-Guy UltraDork
7/27/18 4:25 p.m.

In reply to oldtin :

Haven't seen you around lately, glad to see you're still here.

jay8s
jay8s New Reader
7/31/18 11:17 p.m.

That seems WAY low.  Most in the my neck of the woods are $6-8,000, for right around 150,000 miles.

I am at 140,XXX and only feed her oil (1 Quart over 5,000 miles) and some coolant (half a gallon every 10,000 miles). I just had the thrust arms up front replaced, and she drives like new.  I am slowly replacing seals to help quiet her down.  I will have her for another 2 years, because I am sure that I will have close to 200,000 miles and will need a lot of work to pass state inspection.  I will be looking for an E61 Wagon next.   

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