Provide thy expertise: Removing drop ceiling in bathroom/kitchen.

Part 2 in the new house chronicles:

My house was built in 1980 and at the time it was a good idea to make all spaces seem as small and uncomfortable as possible. A good way to do this was to lower the ceiling and create a cave like structure which calls upon our prehistoric roots.

I got the message...and I don't like the way the caveman lived. Therefore I need to rip out 3 drop ceilings in my house. One in each bathroom and one in the kitchen. The ceiling in the master bath seems to be the smallest with no electrical or anything to worry about so I'll begin there.

I've never done drywall before. As I understand, I need to do the following but I'm really hoping you can fill in the gaps:

1. Put on a facemask and goggles for the impending shower of insulation and crap coming from the ceiling.
2. Punch a hole in ceiling drywall
3. Removed /cut all the drywall out as well as supporting structure behind it
4. Replace the 2x4s which span across the now hole length wise of the bathroom
5. Cut a rectangular piece of drywall (need the specific kind for bathrooms), attach to the 2x4s with drywall screws
6. Use fiberglass tape on seems/corners.
7. Apply mud on tape
8. Sand
9. Paint

Am I missing anything? Any tips? Anything in particular I need to do to keep this to code?

There's likely a whole bunch of stuff up above that finished ceiling. Have a plan for how you're going to handle wiring, hvac, etc..

I've poked around up there quite a bit. As far as I can tell there is nothing but insulation.

That changes in the other bathroom and the kitchen. I'll revisit GRM which I tackle those areas but I want to learn the drywall / framing aspect of it first.

Just so we are all on the same page here, what you are dealing with is called a soffit.

This is a drop ceiling:

Step 8.5: mud, sand, sand, curse, mud, sand until you get it right. It can be a frustrating process for the beginner.

In reply to Bumboclaat:

meant to clarify that too, thanks.

I think you have the basic steps right, but you may not need to replace the hole ceiling. Usually the dropped part is just scabbed onto the 'rafters' and you can remove it.

As far as drywall goes, thin the ud down with water, and beat it well to get the bubbles out. You can do it with your kinfe in a tray or in a bucket with a power mixer. This will help A LOT.

Second use taping mud for the first coat to get the tape on ONLY, then use LIGHT all purpose. The taping mud has a lot more adhesiveness to it, and is a bitch to sand. For getting the tape on the walls you can really thin the mud (not so much with fiberglass tape, I usually just use paper for flat seams), like thick pancake batter. You don't want a huge build up behind the tape, just enough to have it stay in place with no bubble behind it. If there are bubbles when it drys cut them out.

Third piece of advice, put on light coats of mud. It drys faster and is a whole lot easier to add another coat than tohave to sand big lumps out.

I'd call it a soffit. Either way it's probably as easy as you'd envision unless there's something occupying the space except for what KyAllroad mentioned is completely correct.

I did drywall in my bathroom remodel and now every time I sit down for business I get to look at the crappy mud work I did (pun). The one thing I've learned since then is: texture. It hides everything. Of course if that's the only textured spot it might look goofy.

Soffit....got it.

Is texture in right now? I helped a friend with "knock down" before but it seems like that's no longer a popular choice and people are going with flat walls again? I would hate to end up with today's version of popcorn ceiling.

I would say no texture. Flat and smooth is timeless. Once you go with texture it's nearly impossible to go back.

Contractors will texture ceilings because it's cheaper and easier to hide their mistakes.

If you have a sink under your kitchen window, don't be surprised if you uncover the drain vent for it; ours was kinked around the front of the window header. We hid ours with a strategically placed bookshelf with a solid back that runs between the now-full-height cabinets on either side of the window. Would've liked the whole thing wide open, but the bookshelf was cheaper, it's usable, and since it's not solid, still more interesting than a soffit.

Margie

Enyar wrote:

Just a couple of thoughts - how do you like the tile that's there now? Because if at some point you were thinking of removing tile, this may be a good time to just rip the whole shower down to the studs. In any case, I think you may end up removing that top course of cut tiles in order to have some bare drywall to blend the new drywall into.

Also, this would be a good time to install a sealed recessed light over the shower - once you have a light in the shower you will wonder how you ever lived without one.

I also found out from a contractor, instead of sanding drywall mud, use a wet sponge. It'll even things out better, less mess, less dust everywhere. Now I like flat walls -- and live in a house where all the walls are knock-down textured. I really REALLY hate trying to repair a wall or corner that's been textured. I seem to get it right 1 time out of 10.

SEADave wrote:

Enyar wrote:

Just a couple of thoughts - how do you like the tile that's there now? Because if at some point you were thinking of removing tile, this may be a good time to just rip the whole shower down to the studs. In any case, I think you may end up removing that top course of cut tiles in order to have some bare drywall to blend the new drywall into. Also, this would be a good time to install a sealed recessed light over the shower - once you have a light in the shower you will wonder how you ever lived without one.

This is a slippery slope. The house is a foreclosure but they retiled both showers but not the rest of the bathroom. Originally we were going to update the bathroom in 2 stages. First stage is lose the soffits, paint, trim and new fixtures/vanities/ toilets. Second stage would be new tile in the showers and floor. Since the tile in the showers is somewhat updated we were going to work with it for now as there are other things that need attention in the rest of the house. I see what you mean about blending the drywall though.

Rather that drywall for the sides, you could use cement board and continue the tile all the way to the ceiling. No need to tape/mud/blend.

Gearheadotaku wrote: Rather that drywall for the sides, you could use cement board and continue the tile all the way to the ceiling. No need to tape/mud/blend.

Initially this will be painted and once we retile we will run the tile up to the ceiling. That can happen with drywall right?

Enyar wrote:

Gearheadotaku wrote: Rather that drywall for the sides, you could use cement board and continue the tile all the way to the ceiling. No need to tape/mud/blend.

Initially this will be painted and once we retile we will run the tile up to the ceiling. That can happen with drywall right?

I wouldn't, cement board is the way to go. Especially in a damp environment like a shower stall.

Enyar wrote: 1. Put on a facemask and goggles for the impending shower of insulation and crap coming from the ceiling.

Very bad start.

If you climb up in the attic first with a shop vac and long hose, you can suck up all of the insulation and crap before you go the lung cancer route.

I wouldn't start with a shower stall ceiling if I was doing a lot of remodeling on a house.

I realize it seems like an easy place to start, but it is also something you can easily live with at the end.

It would be extremely low on my priority list.

You can add a recessed light to that ceiling in 3 hours and make it quite nice.

Tearing out the ceiling will cost you at least 4 weekends, and you will be very discouraged and disappointed when you are finished.

Start with something that will have big impact for minimal input.

I wouldn't try fiberglass tape either for a beginner.

Paper tape is MUCH easier to get decent corners.

Fiberglass is only useful when patching into plaster, or on surfaces likely to have movement. It's harder to work with.

Walls with tile on them should have cement board backer. Ceilings in damp areas should be moisture resistant drywall.

Check your local market regarding texture.

FL has always seemed to love knock-down finishes. I once did a beautiful slick job, and the buyer felt cheated that I had left out their texture finishes. I had to re-do it to sell the house.

SVreX wrote: I wouldn't start with a shower stall ceiling if I was doing a lot of remodeling on a house. I realize it seems like an easy place to start, but it is also something you can easily live with at the end. It would be extremely low on my priority list. You can add a recessed light to that ceiling in 3 hours and make it quite nice. Tearing out the ceiling will cost you at least 4 weekends, and you will be very discouraged and disappointed when you are finished. Start with something that will have big impact for minimal input.

The only reason I wanted to start here is because the other bathroom and the kitchen both need the same service. This one doesn't have HVAC or electrical in the way and it's not an odd shape. I figured it would be good practice for the kitchen, which is what really needs the loving.

Sounds like a perfect justification for a borescope. Because, you know, you have to see what is hiding in there before you tear it all down. /enable

Kitchen soffits with HVAC? Ugh. I don't have good news for you on that one.

I figured you were looking for practice. I just think you may decide it may be more trouble than it is worth.

Svrex beat me to it, but soffits often hide surprises like plumbing, and piss poor work.