Hey all,
I need a good way to put a 3/16" to 1/4" slit in PVC. We're currently using a normal circular saw but the kerf isn't wide enough and it isn't the easiest. We're thinking dado blades, routers, or a dremel. There's some concern with the pipes getting ruined with an aggressive dado blade.
We're using the thinner wall pipes, no schedule 40. Any ideas?
Soldering iron aka hotknife? (do it outside with a respirator please)
RossD
PowerDork
2/24/14 1:45 p.m.
How about cutting with heat/electrical resistance i.e. hot wire but use some heavy formed wire in the shape of the slot. Or just heat up a big piece of flat bar steel.
slefain
UltraDork
2/24/14 2:08 p.m.
Table saw with a few fine tooth saw blades stacked together?
cutoff wheel with blades stacked might work too.
PVC is under a lot of tension. Here is someone splitting it for a speaker enclosure: http://www.parts-express.com/project-gallery-speaker-project-kuze3201-line-array
T.J.
PowerDork
2/24/14 6:10 p.m.
Cutting PVC pipe in this way is a cheap way to get a lot of clamps.
How long are the PVC pipe sections that you need to slot?
Hal
SuperDork
2/24/14 9:39 p.m.
slefain wrote:
Table saw with a few fine tooth saw blades stacked together?
I've done it that way with no problems even with Schedule 40.
T.J. wrote:
Cutting PVC pipe in this way is a cheap way to get a lot of clamps.
How long are the PVC pipe sections that you need to slot?
It's roughly 17". We leave an inch on the end uncut.
Hal wrote:
slefain wrote:
Table saw with a few fine tooth saw blades stacked together?
I've done it that way with no problems even with Schedule 40.
We just have a circular saw. Is stacking blades on one of those a good way to lose body parts?
bluej
Dork
2/24/14 11:52 p.m.
Jig setup with plunge router on low speed so it doesn't melt/bugger up the PVC.