spun taper roller bearing, never seen one this bad

Need some tips on how to get this bearing off the shaft (watch yo mouth).

I have a big 2" taper roller that went to places I never want to visit.

On teardown I see some really wonky rollers

Punch it all out:

Now I have a roller bearing base I cannot remove.  I've heated, used bearing pullers, now used angle grinder to try to slot the bearing.  Once, twice, even 3 times.  Tried to heat up and knock out the small piece and no go.  This thing is welded.

Anyway, now I need some ideas on what to do next.  hand it of to machine shop? Lathe? Edm? Boat anchor?  It's part of a $25k drive system however I don't think the shaft is even available anyway.

Thanks

Idk on something that large, but a cold chisel to the angle grinder cuts in the race always worked best when I got a bad one. Wear goggles. 

A machine shop can also handle it, and a neighborly one is likely cheap if you 'know a guy'. Maybe less so if you don't, but your pics with a ruler would be enough for most to make an estimate. They can also measure for any runout as a consequence of the destruction. 

Big honkin nut splitter? If it is truly friction welded to the shaft than chucking in a lathe may be the only option. You may need to sleeve it afterwards depending on how bad it chewed up the shaft.

Yeah, plus 1 for trying to pound a chisel into the cuts you have made. Chisel tip wedges in and pushes the two sides apart, spreading the entire bearing.

Heat it cherry red with a torch in one spot around the circumference of the race, then smack it good in the red with a ball-peen hammer.  That should stretch it and it should come off.

(edited out a poor suggestion so nobody follows it without reading on)

I will second the cold chisel in the cutoff wheel slots you have already made. Cut down as deep as you are comfortable going and wail away on it.  It will make a really satisfying noise when the crack appears.

Alternatively, it's oxy torch time.  Cut down on the tangent, not straight into the shaft.  If done right, it won't damage the shaft.

In my experience (millwright by trade, stuck shafts are kinda my forte), mig welding a bead around the circumference will only make it worse.  It is absolutely the right call if you are working on the opposite problem, an outer race stuck in a counterbore.

Cold chisel and bfh, and it might be easiest to go parallel to the shaft.  If you were here I would also recommend tossing it outside over night and hitting it first thing in the morning; for most steel room temperature is above the brittle fracture temperature but -20 is below it.

I'd go straight to a machine shop.

At this point, a hammer and chisel will probably deform the piece.  And given the failure, it may already be deformed out of spec.

A machine shop will both take the seat off and make sure it's still a good piece.  And perhaps even fix it if it's not.

I have had a somewhat smaller bearing friction weld itself onto a pre-war Austin 7 rear hub. Splitting it did eventually remove it, but the hub was trash. You could see that some of the hub pulled off stuck onto the race part. New parts were attainable, but if you think this shaft is not, then lathe is the answer. You have probably killed the hardness already in the remains of the race. This thing was glowing red at some point during the failure.

Had a cam bearing do this in an old honda dirtbike. Single piece bearing on the opposite side of the cam from the sprocket. All the oil had fallen out and things got hot. Ground a slot, hit with hammer, bought a new bearing and just put it back. Ran like a champ.

Looking at your pictures, that bearing may be an interference fit by design. Wear protection. When it lets go it won't be gentle.

I had an axle bearing do this. The bearing failed and the shaft got so hot that the shaft deformed under the load of the vehicle once I stopped to investigate the smoke and noise I was hearing.

I suspect that the inner race spun and friction welded itself to the shaft.  The fact that it won't come off even with the slots you've cut into it supports that theory.  If that's the case then it's going to need some attention at a machine shop even if you do get the race off.  I'd let them have it now.

Thanks all.  Just needed a sanity check mainly.  I've actually broken the tips off a couple cold chisels trying to crack open the slots.  I even put a 3 jaw puller with one jaw on the narrow section with the 2 slots and no luck - she's welded.

Lathe operators, can this be turned?  It's got a lot of ridges, slots, and other crap. This may work put better as the bearing may help make up any grooves is the shaft :)

I live in aerospace land, machine shops put here usually don't answer my calls unless I need 1000 aero brackets.  If anyone wants to take a crack at it (or knows a mom & pop shop) let me know. 

Thanks