Stainless welding and hitch questions

grassroots is not necessarily the same thing as cheap.

just a thought...

SVreX wrote: grassroots is not necessarily the same thing as cheap. just a thought...

totally agree

but usually its more rewarding and fun.

Towing threads are so much Fun!!

What are the vissable differences between a 10k hitch and a 7500lb hitch for you application?

If the frame mounts are of the same type and gauge as what you have and the only difference is the thickness or design of the crossbar then I think what you are proposing would be okish. Probably not the best solution (that would be to buy a 10k rated hitch BTW, or completely engineer one doing calculations on all parts ensuring that the resulting assembly has a acceptable Safety factor) but should work.

If the 10K hitch uses more mounting bolts, or bigger heavier gauge brackets, or ties into the frame differently then I think you would be being negligent to consider anthing but just buying a 10K rated hitch.

I have seen hitches that do what you are describing. And in fact the stock hitch on my Tacoma ties into the bumper for additional support so it's not un heard of. I've seen hitches that also have different ratings depending on if they tie into the bumper.

I have recently became more and more woried about general liability in our overly litegous society of today. Something like this would set off my alarm. By modifying or building the hitch you are assuming ALL liability for the hitch. You are taking a hitch that would have at least removed the equipment portion of your overall towing liability out of the equation and replacing it with a hitch of your own design. If anything were to go wrong at all and a large payout were to be the result (either your fault or not, not a fender bender, like a fatality or large medical settlement) the condition of your equipment would probably be looked at and you will now be the one with liability for that hitch..

Just food for thought. I would buy the 10k hitch, however I am a mechanical engineer and know that what you are describing if properly excecuted could result in a hitch of sufficent strength. There was a time not to long ago that I would of done exactly as you are proposing. Now I am generally much more risk adverse as I would hate to see something as silly as a $250 hitch cost my family everything in the extreme case of causing a traffic fatality due to an error in my hitch design.

Very well put, nocones.

I have similar thoughts, but you worded them better.

curtis73 wrote:

SVreX wrote: grassroots is not necessarily the same thing as cheap. just a thought...

totally agree but usually its more rewarding and fun.

Rewarding and fun......is what keeps many Lawyers gainfully employed.

I will chip in $25 toward a 10k hitch if you are interested.

Please send funds.

Ok, you all will be happy to hear that I ordered a hitch (dammit). I was crawling around under there yesterday repairing some damaged trailer wiring and the front side of the cross tube is damaged. Something hit it hard enough to dent it and pull the weld off the side plate.

So you can all sleep tonight.

Chicken

Wally wrote: Chicken

LOL

Wally wrote: Chicken

Great punchline!

nocones wrote: Towing threads are so much Fun!! What are the vissable differences between a 10k hitch and a 7500lb hitch for you application?

Got the new hitch today and was able to compare them side by side. Original one was a Draw Tite and the new one was a Curt. They were both within one pound of each other and both designed almost exactly the same. Both sides had three 1/2" bolts, both used the same thickness of steel (at least on the side plates) and both used the same three holes on the frame.

Not sure what the difference was, but the new one is rated for 12k distributing and the old one was 7.5k distributing.

Grade 8 bolts.

Only difference might be the margin of error each company as willing to take.

Ever since I figured out I could look up used hitches on car-part I stopped buying new ones. Lets my get the big heavy ones for 1/2 the price of the lighter duty ones, though I usually have to spring for my own bolts.

nocones wrote: I have recently became more and more woried about general liability in our overly litegous society of today. Something like this would set off my alarm.

+1. This is what keeps me from buying a Bosal hitch for my TDi - which is rated for about 2600 lbs vs. a Curt hitch rated for 1500. The Bosal hitch is only rated in Europe and is not DOT approved.

TRoglodyte wrote: Grade 8 bolts.

Not if you paid me.... Grade 5 bolts are spec'd for this. Grade 8s are for tensile only, never shear.

Ian F wrote:

nocones wrote: I have recently became more and more woried about general liability in our overly litegous society of today. Something like this would set off my alarm.

+1. This is what keeps me from buying a Bosal hitch for my TDi - which is rated for about 2600 lbs vs. a Curt hitch rated for 1500. The Bosal hitch is only rated in Europe and is not DOT approved.

I'm all about covering my butt, but seriously guys... how many times have we as GRM'rs have skirted that? I come to this forum for practical knowledge, not legal rhetoric. I certainly appreciate and respect that aspect of things, but I also have a healthy dose of engineering background.

How many of us have driven around with a shoulder belt that has a fray in the webbing? How about a creaking ball joint that we know is going to break some day? How about a loose steering box, or a whining rear axle? We all use our knowledge and judgement about how those issues affect the safety of our vehicles.

I've always been very confident in my engineering, especially with hitches, suspensions, and other heavy-load fabrication. No disrespect intended at all, but I wouldn't have asked this original question if I were worried about liability. I was more interested in how to weld stainless to mild steel.

Forgive my soap box, its just that I turn to this forum for practical knowledge - how to build a roll cage from hemp fibers - how to make your own tires from Jello - how to hook up with Alyssa Milano. Wait, what?

I do a lot of weird E36 M3 on a track. Not on the street.

I have had several towing mishaps, and understand what can go wrong. Its MUCH easier and MUCH faster that you think.

As I said earlier, go ahead and tow whatever you like on the track.

curtis73 wrote:

TRoglodyte wrote: Grade 8 bolts.

Not if you paid me.... Grade 5 bolts are spec'd for this. Grade 8s are for tensile only, never shear.

Yeah, but bolts are primarily for the clamping force anyway, right? Let's see... who was it that said that?

curtis73 wrote: Please send funds.

PM me your Paypal address and it is on its way. I am happy to help. T